Changing a simple coach
#33
modelsof1900 Wrote:Michael, I’m not sure if the eye-end if these anchors should be hanged in the air? I think that it will be mechanically and physically better when the first nbw casting to the eye should be positioned as close as maybe to the eye? And I think that this nbw must than fixed directly through flat ends of the anchor to the bottom or a frame beam. However this is my view to this problem or did you see other arrangements on pictures or drawings?

Many cars had that type. There are excellent drawings of it on pgs 110 and 256 of John White's Am. RR. Pass. Car. Here are photos of a car at Mid-Continent with such an iron:
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Many other cars at MC have such hardware, but you can't see it as clearly in the photos. The tell-tale sign is the s-curve before the bolts fastening it to the side sill.

The same style is shown repeatedly in the 1888 Car Builders Dictionary...I'm sure that you'd approve of Forney's description...for it includes a line about how it was inadequate!

modelsof1900 Wrote:Wayne you are right, gluing alone is not the best solution for fixing these many small parts and in most cases I fixed the parts first on this mechanical way and after I filled the small holes and gaps with ac glue. I would be sure that I must not make repairs in a later building phase or in times when model will be in use on a layout.
Sorry for my long explanations. But these are all things that you all know even from their own experiences.

Like an article I read in an old gazette: a mechanical pin protects against one of two weaknesses that CA has: shear. The other is heat...and isn't really much of a problem unless you bake your models.
Michael
My primary goal is a large Oahu Railway layout in On3
My secondary interests are modeling the Denver, South Park, & Pacific in On3 and NKP in HO
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