12-21-2009, 09:40 PM
The original post did show up in the "New Posts", but, since I don't model in N scale, I didn't pay particular attention to it. 
As mentioned, the main problem with using low-profile rail in any scale is that some wheel flanges may be too deep, causing them to bottom-out through turnouts, especially at the frogs and guardrail areas, and sometimes even on the track itself, where the flanges are so deep that they hit the spike heads moulded onto the ties.
Changing out the wheels on rolling stock is fairly easy, but not so with locomotives. If you have older ones with deep flanges, though, it is possible to turn them down using a cut-off disc in a motor tool, as I did with this HO scale 2-6-0 from IHC.
![[Image: 100_5533.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/locomotives/100_5533.jpg)
While the loco had no problems running on my code 83 track, I thought that the flanges looked overly deep, so I decided to "trim 'em down". I don't recall if I disassembled the loco or not: the main concern is to keep the filings from getting into the motor, drive train, and wheel bearings. I applied masking tape to the frame area, both below and above the axles, shielding the motor and gear area at the same time. The tender and lead truck were removed, then leads were clipped from a power source to the motor. I worked with the loco held upright in one hand, and the Dremel in the other. Apply power to the loco until the drivers are turning at about half speed, then, after bringing the Dremel to top speed, lightly touch the face of the cut-off disc to a wheel flange, holding it lightly in place for a few seconds. Move on to the next wheel, repeating the process, then repeat until the flanges on all wheels have been suitably reduced. This may take several applications for each wheel - do not attempt to do it in a single operation.
The reason for working for only a few seconds at a time on a wheel is to avoid overheating the tire or, if the wheel centre is plastic, to avoid melting or warping the plastic. Keeping the loco upright will help to ensure that the cutting residue will fall away from the loco rather than falling into the mechanism as it would if the loco were upside-down on your workbench. Finally, using the face of the cut-off disc allows you to abrade away the excess material of the oversize flanges, rather than cutting it - with the wheels turning, you'll get a much more regular (round) finish on the reduced flanges. The light touch ensures minimal heating of the wheel and reduces the stress on the cut-off disc - nevertheless, always wear safety glasses when using a cut-off disc and particularly when using it in this fashion. At 30,000rpm, the pieces will continue to cut if the disc should shatter.
Wayne
As mentioned, the main problem with using low-profile rail in any scale is that some wheel flanges may be too deep, causing them to bottom-out through turnouts, especially at the frogs and guardrail areas, and sometimes even on the track itself, where the flanges are so deep that they hit the spike heads moulded onto the ties.
Changing out the wheels on rolling stock is fairly easy, but not so with locomotives. If you have older ones with deep flanges, though, it is possible to turn them down using a cut-off disc in a motor tool, as I did with this HO scale 2-6-0 from IHC.
While the loco had no problems running on my code 83 track, I thought that the flanges looked overly deep, so I decided to "trim 'em down". I don't recall if I disassembled the loco or not: the main concern is to keep the filings from getting into the motor, drive train, and wheel bearings. I applied masking tape to the frame area, both below and above the axles, shielding the motor and gear area at the same time. The tender and lead truck were removed, then leads were clipped from a power source to the motor. I worked with the loco held upright in one hand, and the Dremel in the other. Apply power to the loco until the drivers are turning at about half speed, then, after bringing the Dremel to top speed, lightly touch the face of the cut-off disc to a wheel flange, holding it lightly in place for a few seconds. Move on to the next wheel, repeating the process, then repeat until the flanges on all wheels have been suitably reduced. This may take several applications for each wheel - do not attempt to do it in a single operation.
The reason for working for only a few seconds at a time on a wheel is to avoid overheating the tire or, if the wheel centre is plastic, to avoid melting or warping the plastic. Keeping the loco upright will help to ensure that the cutting residue will fall away from the loco rather than falling into the mechanism as it would if the loco were upside-down on your workbench. Finally, using the face of the cut-off disc allows you to abrade away the excess material of the oversize flanges, rather than cutting it - with the wheels turning, you'll get a much more regular (round) finish on the reduced flanges. The light touch ensures minimal heating of the wheel and reduces the stress on the cut-off disc - nevertheless, always wear safety glasses when using a cut-off disc and particularly when using it in this fashion. At 30,000rpm, the pieces will continue to cut if the disc should shatter.
Wayne