Bonus Room Shelf Layout
#88
Matt - you're right, L-girder is tall! I believe it can be a useful system, as I've seen on many layouts in person and online, when the best use is made of the flexibility. Box frame or butt joint takes a bit more planning, perhaps, so that you don't put a turnout throw over a cross brace, whereas with L girder you just move a joist as necessary to avoid such things.

What frustrates me about L-girder, although not necessarily the system itself, is how it's used in the construction of beginner layouts. A Kalmbach video from the 80's with Wayne Wesolowski shows how to build a 4'x6' beginner layout using L-girder. They do a great job assembling girders and leg units, then adding the joists across the girders. Finally they plunk a sheet of plywood down on the whole thing. WHAT? Why go to all the trouble of L girder construction if you're not going to use risers and cookie cutter roadbed in order to take full advantage of the depth?

Granted, they do cut a water feature into one side and need to shift a joist, but I get the impression this wasn't planned. The whole thing looks a little slap dash at first. But a table-top layout doesn't need L-girder. IMO, it will gain more strength from a box frame a la the good 'ole Atlas plan book method.

I'm going to be working on the track plan tonight, and will hopefully get something scanned and posted. My printer/scanner has been acting up so we'll see how much frustration I want to endure to get it done, or else I'll have to do it tomorrow at work.

As for the cutting, well, most modelers can use a scale rule and some even use a caliper to cut very precise lengths of scale lumber. Yet somehow we get into trouble cutting actual 1x4s. Go figure. Measure 10 cut 1.

Thanks for the good feedback!

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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