05-28-2010, 10:43 PM
Alright, i think i can resuscitate my GP40FH-2, which is a wreck right now. I just got a Cannon 81" nose, 35/40 line cab, 2 S&S F40PH-2 photo etch grills (need to combine parts), Styrene sheets and strips.
What happened to it? This was my first projects, and i blew it up, several times in fact. First i destroyed the surface of the shell (did some foolish things but i was only 15 and new to the hobby then), and then i painted it horribly. then i tried to strip the thing, and damaged the shell more, so i started drilling out damaged details to be replaced with newer ones. This entire time, the sides bowed out greatly.
when it got extreme, i bit the bullet and cut the model up to save what was left. The sides literally curled up after i cut them free, and it looks like the area below the cab is having the same problem.
My plan is to totally rebuild the shell, to the point where only the rear and the roof behind the cab will be the "Original" shell. The fans and grills will be replaces by Photo etched parts and Cannon & Co fans. sides will be styrene sheet and strip, the Cab and nose will be Cannon Parts, and the battery boxes and sill will be made from a spare Atlas GP40-2 sill piece.
By the time i'm done, the model should be MORE realistic than it was when i started out, and hopefully most of the flaws i created will be washed away.
I do have a box, but i think that the dust just permeates. I suspect even as it dried, dust gets in and deposits itself. This time, however, the dust does not appear to be trapped in the paint like on the arrow, and even though the dust likes to cling to the model, i can brush a lot of it off. I think the ribbed nature of the car might be a good spot for static electricity to pull things in.
Actually, gloss black would make a better undercoat, not gray primer. gray primer isn't glossy enough (its probably flat, so that would effect the car's sheen). the cars look "silver", but do they mirror reflect? when you hold them in the light, do you get the right effect?
I airbrushed on gloss black straight onto the shell, no primer (this maintains the smooth finish). Gloss black is the smoothest possible paint, i am told. after that, i applied three coats of Aclad II Chrome, brush painted the ends polly scale Stainless Steel, and sealed with floquil Gloss. This is the PERFECT Arrow/Silverliner paint job. It matches the photos exactly in the way it reflects the light and the color it shines (lighter on the ends, darker on the sides). It looks EXACTLY like the silverliner IVs in that Reading Terminal photo.
It may seem silly, but my Arrow III shells all had a coat of metalizer (didn't work out) on them, and even though i tried to paint over it with the gloss black paint, the metalizer still had a dramatic effect on the Chrome Alclad's appearance, making it "whiter". I'm sure the Chrome Rustoleum works fine, but a smooth undercoat is important for it to be Metallic and not merely shiny.
right now, i almost want to strip my #1308 Arrow III, as my Silverliner IV came out a lot better, but it would be more work than i care to do.
Right now, just about everything is installed on the silverliner except for the light lenses, grab irons, couplers and some of the windows. i was going to take some photos, but i decided to wait until its a little more complete.
[/quote]what is interesting about that old photo in Penn coach yard of the pilot silverliner IV is that the roof blister grille is silver not off blackish as it appears today.
Im going with the late 80s-90s Septa logo.. I do remember catching the silverliner IVs at Reading terminal in the 70s and 80s That is where I became a railroad Nut[/quote]
True, but i checked some prototype photos, and they must have darkened up pretty quick (odd in my opinion, aren't these supposed to be electrics? Or are there intakes up there?) If you like those Reading units, you'll love this thing when i get it together.
side question, where are the horns on these things? just an odd detail i found missing.
I've thought of using it, and i've seen people use it on "smoother" prototypes. they got it to go around the rivets and batten strips of CB&Q E-units, but i would NEVER try it on my Arrow/Silverliner MUs. I'm not sure how well it would all work out with all the fluted sides. Besides, the Alclad paints seem to do the trick. I'm going to have to devise another way to beat the dust.
What happened to it? This was my first projects, and i blew it up, several times in fact. First i destroyed the surface of the shell (did some foolish things but i was only 15 and new to the hobby then), and then i painted it horribly. then i tried to strip the thing, and damaged the shell more, so i started drilling out damaged details to be replaced with newer ones. This entire time, the sides bowed out greatly.
when it got extreme, i bit the bullet and cut the model up to save what was left. The sides literally curled up after i cut them free, and it looks like the area below the cab is having the same problem.
My plan is to totally rebuild the shell, to the point where only the rear and the roof behind the cab will be the "Original" shell. The fans and grills will be replaces by Photo etched parts and Cannon & Co fans. sides will be styrene sheet and strip, the Cab and nose will be Cannon Parts, and the battery boxes and sill will be made from a spare Atlas GP40-2 sill piece.
By the time i'm done, the model should be MORE realistic than it was when i started out, and hopefully most of the flaws i created will be washed away.
Russ Bellinis Wrote:You might try painting the model in a box of some sort, and have some Saran wrap handy to cover the opening when through painting.
I do have a box, but i think that the dust just permeates. I suspect even as it dried, dust gets in and deposits itself. This time, however, the dust does not appear to be trapped in the paint like on the arrow, and even though the dust likes to cling to the model, i can brush a lot of it off. I think the ribbed nature of the car might be a good spot for static electricity to pull things in.
ac_catenary Wrote:I painted both of my Silverliner IVs outdoors on humid day with no wind and still got flecks and it took forever to dry. I used that rustoleum chrome with a base coat of automobile gray primer.
Actually, gloss black would make a better undercoat, not gray primer. gray primer isn't glossy enough (its probably flat, so that would effect the car's sheen). the cars look "silver", but do they mirror reflect? when you hold them in the light, do you get the right effect?
I airbrushed on gloss black straight onto the shell, no primer (this maintains the smooth finish). Gloss black is the smoothest possible paint, i am told. after that, i applied three coats of Aclad II Chrome, brush painted the ends polly scale Stainless Steel, and sealed with floquil Gloss. This is the PERFECT Arrow/Silverliner paint job. It matches the photos exactly in the way it reflects the light and the color it shines (lighter on the ends, darker on the sides). It looks EXACTLY like the silverliner IVs in that Reading Terminal photo.
It may seem silly, but my Arrow III shells all had a coat of metalizer (didn't work out) on them, and even though i tried to paint over it with the gloss black paint, the metalizer still had a dramatic effect on the Chrome Alclad's appearance, making it "whiter". I'm sure the Chrome Rustoleum works fine, but a smooth undercoat is important for it to be Metallic and not merely shiny.
right now, i almost want to strip my #1308 Arrow III, as my Silverliner IV came out a lot better, but it would be more work than i care to do.
Right now, just about everything is installed on the silverliner except for the light lenses, grab irons, couplers and some of the windows. i was going to take some photos, but i decided to wait until its a little more complete.
[/quote]what is interesting about that old photo in Penn coach yard of the pilot silverliner IV is that the roof blister grille is silver not off blackish as it appears today.
Im going with the late 80s-90s Septa logo.. I do remember catching the silverliner IVs at Reading terminal in the 70s and 80s That is where I became a railroad Nut[/quote]
True, but i checked some prototype photos, and they must have darkened up pretty quick (odd in my opinion, aren't these supposed to be electrics? Or are there intakes up there?) If you like those Reading units, you'll love this thing when i get it together.
side question, where are the horns on these things? just an odd detail i found missing.
Russ Bellinis Wrote:GEC, have you tried the metal film that model car builders use to replicate chrome, stainless, etc.? I used some on a Firebird center cap that had part of the "bird" missing and it is a very thin foil once peeled off the backing paper.
I've thought of using it, and i've seen people use it on "smoother" prototypes. they got it to go around the rivets and batten strips of CB&Q E-units, but i would NEVER try it on my Arrow/Silverliner MUs. I'm not sure how well it would all work out with all the fluted sides. Besides, the Alclad paints seem to do the trick. I'm going to have to devise another way to beat the dust.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.
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