08-02-2010, 09:32 PM
Thanks, Steve. 
Here is a close-up of the end piece that abuts the roadbed and protects the rails. When I lay track up to the edge of the layout section I'll drive two brass flathead screws into this mdf block directly beneath the rails and solder the rail to the screws.
Well, back up a sec, I should say once the bridge section is built I'll lay track over the joint, soldering to the screws on either side of the joint. Only then will I cut the rail at the gap. Then when I need to separate the sections I know I'll have perfect alignment next time I join them (as long as the bolts are true!) Giving credit where it is due, I learned this from Carl at the Orange County Module Railroaders, where he has used it successfully for years as interior joints on his multi-section modules.
I don't plan on using any sort of alignment dowels at this time. Hunting down 'part maker's dowels' has been impossible so I'll just drill the 1/4" bolt holes carefully and bolt the sections together before laying track across the joint.
I cut a long strip of MDF in the balast profile using my jig saw set to 45 degrees. Very cool tool. The block is nailed and glued in place.
[albumimg]2772[/albumimg]
The roadbed is sound board, a pressed fiber board product much softer than homasote. If I could get homasote nearby I'd do it but this is easier to come by and so far seems to be working well. Once balast is in I think it'll be bonded just fine. I may double up the track nails on the staging tracks. Out on the visible main I will use as few track nails as possible and drill up next to the rail in order to push spikes through. It'll take a little longer but I think the results will be worth it.
I'm afraid construction adhesive will be too strong for the fiber board. The strength of the fibers is in driving something down through the layers which will grab a spike or nail. Adhesive would sit on top and possibly delaminate the fibers from the rest of the board. On the underside I've used yellow wood glue in addition to the drywall screws. In fact, I could probably remove the screws and it'd be fine but it's just as easy to leave them there and use the extra holding power. But I think the yellow glue will actually permeate the fibers better than thick construction adhesive, hence the strength of balast.
Galen
Here is a close-up of the end piece that abuts the roadbed and protects the rails. When I lay track up to the edge of the layout section I'll drive two brass flathead screws into this mdf block directly beneath the rails and solder the rail to the screws.
Well, back up a sec, I should say once the bridge section is built I'll lay track over the joint, soldering to the screws on either side of the joint. Only then will I cut the rail at the gap. Then when I need to separate the sections I know I'll have perfect alignment next time I join them (as long as the bolts are true!) Giving credit where it is due, I learned this from Carl at the Orange County Module Railroaders, where he has used it successfully for years as interior joints on his multi-section modules.
I don't plan on using any sort of alignment dowels at this time. Hunting down 'part maker's dowels' has been impossible so I'll just drill the 1/4" bolt holes carefully and bolt the sections together before laying track across the joint.
I cut a long strip of MDF in the balast profile using my jig saw set to 45 degrees. Very cool tool. The block is nailed and glued in place.
[albumimg]2772[/albumimg]
The roadbed is sound board, a pressed fiber board product much softer than homasote. If I could get homasote nearby I'd do it but this is easier to come by and so far seems to be working well. Once balast is in I think it'll be bonded just fine. I may double up the track nails on the staging tracks. Out on the visible main I will use as few track nails as possible and drill up next to the rail in order to push spikes through. It'll take a little longer but I think the results will be worth it.
I'm afraid construction adhesive will be too strong for the fiber board. The strength of the fibers is in driving something down through the layers which will grab a spike or nail. Adhesive would sit on top and possibly delaminate the fibers from the rest of the board. On the underside I've used yellow wood glue in addition to the drywall screws. In fact, I could probably remove the screws and it'd be fine but it's just as easy to leave them there and use the extra holding power. But I think the yellow glue will actually permeate the fibers better than thick construction adhesive, hence the strength of balast.
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!