08-07-2010, 11:32 AM
Gary S Wrote:Kevin, the problem I am having is that I leave some solder globs here and there and cannot get it to flow down smooth in some places. I am using flux, even going back and putting new flux on the globs and then hitting them with the iron again. I can't figure out how GEC gets such good solder connections on his overhead wiring towers. I'm having to carve some of the globbiness off with a hobby knife, and a little bit of sanding.
For soldering brass wire (or any brass, for that matter) I like to give it a thorough sanding, using a fairly fine grade of sandpaper. For wire, grasp the wire with pliers, then drag it through a folded piece of #500 or finer wet/dry sandpaper - make two or three passes, to ensure that you get the entire surface. Move the pliers to the sanded end, and repeat the operation. (The reason for doing the latter is to ensure that, when you set the wire down, you don't pick it back up and start cutting from the un-cleaned end - you know how I discovered that wrinkle.
)I like to cut brass wire with a used #11 X-Acto blade, working on a sheet of glass. This gives a precisely-placed cut that needs no clean-up (be sure to hold on the the piece being cut, lest you launch it into workshop limbo).
For laying out handrails, fences, etc., I find a piece of graph paper (or simply a neatly drawn line-sketch of whatever you're building) works well for keeping things in alignment. I usually pin the paper to a sheet of 1/4" balsa with dressmaker's pins, then lay the pre-cut wire in place, securing it with additional pins as required. Apply a tiny dab of resin flux to each joint, then solder. If you get too much solder on a joint, you can clean it up later with needle files. To keep previously-made solder joints from coming un-soldered, place a small wad of wet tissue or paper towel on the finished joints - you can move them along as you work, and they'll protect anything beyond where they're placed.
Wayne