10-18-2010, 08:32 PM
Galen;
For the past 30 years, every layout that I've constructed (but never finished) was built using Homasote laminated to at least 3/8 inch plywood, because it was widely reported that Homasote would warp. Homasote is readily available here, but 1 inch or thicker foam board isn't. I always loved the fact that I could spike code 70 track directly to the Homasote with or without cork roadbed and how well it held the track in place and how easy was was to make changes before I put down any ballast. But it was a lot of work to laminate the Homasote to the plywood then cut out the roadbed areas. This time I'm just going with plywood/cork/ballast for my proposed layout. Mainly to save time and money and don't see any problem with just plywood/cork/ballast with glue holding everything.
Anyway, here is a side view of an HOn3 display track that I threw together about 10 years ago, using only Homasote as a base. I built up some contours using cardstock glued to the Homasote and then put a thin layer of plaster (mixed to the consistency of pancake batter) over that and finally affixed some grass/dirt/ballast to that by spraying it with a matte medium.
--- EDIT ---
In my brief description of how I constructed this display/test track I completely forgot one step in the process. After putting the plaster on the contour areas, I then applied a coat of thinned earth colored latex paint over the entire top surface and at the same time, sprinkled on the Woodland Scenics earth stuff. After that had dried to the touch, I came back and sprinkled on some WS grass - glued on a few pieces of lichen here and there and then sprayed on the thinned matte medium. Sorry about that oversight. Since the plaster did not cover the entire piece of Homasote, but was primarily in the center of the piece and then I covered the whole thing with thinned latex paint, I can't say if it would have been the plaster or the paint that caused the warp.
--- END EDIT ---
As you can see (or I hope you can see) in the photo, this was the result the next day. This 3 foot x 4 inch piece of Homasote had warped up in the center 1/2 inch.
I never did try to flatten it back out as I sort of liked the rise in the center when showing off my little brass Climax locomotive on it, but were I to do it again, I'd have sure laminated the Homasote to plywood or foam board.
Not trying to prove that Homasote is not a good base for building a layout, I love the stuff, but just show that it will indeed warp when it gets wet and I would not consider using it without laminating it to plywood or perhaps even foam board where it available here. I never had any problem with it expanding/contracting/warping when laminated to plywood, even on sections where the roadbed base was cut as thin as 1-1/2 inches wide. But would never consider just using Homasote without a sub base. All my layouts have been constructed using 1x2 l-girders with joists spaced on 16 inch centers. My posting will no doubt incur some ire, but so be it.
For the past 30 years, every layout that I've constructed (but never finished) was built using Homasote laminated to at least 3/8 inch plywood, because it was widely reported that Homasote would warp. Homasote is readily available here, but 1 inch or thicker foam board isn't. I always loved the fact that I could spike code 70 track directly to the Homasote with or without cork roadbed and how well it held the track in place and how easy was was to make changes before I put down any ballast. But it was a lot of work to laminate the Homasote to the plywood then cut out the roadbed areas. This time I'm just going with plywood/cork/ballast for my proposed layout. Mainly to save time and money and don't see any problem with just plywood/cork/ballast with glue holding everything.
Anyway, here is a side view of an HOn3 display track that I threw together about 10 years ago, using only Homasote as a base. I built up some contours using cardstock glued to the Homasote and then put a thin layer of plaster (mixed to the consistency of pancake batter) over that and finally affixed some grass/dirt/ballast to that by spraying it with a matte medium.
--- EDIT ---
In my brief description of how I constructed this display/test track I completely forgot one step in the process. After putting the plaster on the contour areas, I then applied a coat of thinned earth colored latex paint over the entire top surface and at the same time, sprinkled on the Woodland Scenics earth stuff. After that had dried to the touch, I came back and sprinkled on some WS grass - glued on a few pieces of lichen here and there and then sprayed on the thinned matte medium. Sorry about that oversight. Since the plaster did not cover the entire piece of Homasote, but was primarily in the center of the piece and then I covered the whole thing with thinned latex paint, I can't say if it would have been the plaster or the paint that caused the warp.
--- END EDIT ---
As you can see (or I hope you can see) in the photo, this was the result the next day. This 3 foot x 4 inch piece of Homasote had warped up in the center 1/2 inch.
I never did try to flatten it back out as I sort of liked the rise in the center when showing off my little brass Climax locomotive on it, but were I to do it again, I'd have sure laminated the Homasote to plywood or foam board.
Not trying to prove that Homasote is not a good base for building a layout, I love the stuff, but just show that it will indeed warp when it gets wet and I would not consider using it without laminating it to plywood or perhaps even foam board where it available here. I never had any problem with it expanding/contracting/warping when laminated to plywood, even on sections where the roadbed base was cut as thin as 1-1/2 inches wide. But would never consider just using Homasote without a sub base. All my layouts have been constructed using 1x2 l-girders with joists spaced on 16 inch centers. My posting will no doubt incur some ire, but so be it.
Ed
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"