02-06-2011, 02:10 PM
Yes, Sir! And you get a Gold Star for the day for the class! 
You do end up with a double wall ... one with horizontal joints and one with vertical joints which when laminated together produces a very stong wall section. If you are going to laminate a sheet of "novelty" siding on the outside, you can either make your laminations thinner (2 x 0.015") and then laminate your chosen siding on top or use one thick (0.040" or better) "snap" wall section to accurately locate windows and doors and then get strength and appearance from the novelty siding applied to the outside surface.
For corners, if the wall is "thick" (0.040" or better) I chamfer the edges to be joined, give the now-chamfered edges a thorough coat of solvent, clamp them up at 90 degrees, "paint" some more solvent to wick into the joint from the inside and let it sit to harden up. If I feel the joint needs more strength, I add a piece of large square styrene stock to the interior joint, "painting" it in with solvent as before. (wait to do that until the initial joint is solidified and you are certain it is at 90 degrees.) I have a couple of "Assembly Aids" that I made that are squared-up pieces of Plexiglass and wood, that have substantially wide chamfers on a couple of edges, to be used as interior "clamping surfaces" while the joint solidifies. The wide chamfer does a lot to insure that the block will not become a permanent part of the structure!
For glazing ... I save a lot of pieces of "carded POP packaging" that have large flat areas of vacuum-formed clear styrene/acetate to use as window glazing. (Yeah, I was accused by my former wife of being a "pack rat," but why throw away valuable raw materials that you would then at some point have to spend hard-earned money to purchase essentially the same basic thing from a hobby or art supply store?*) I carefully cut the squirreled away raw material to size, drop the glazing into the window casting from behind and affix it in place using canopy cement (one of the few things I can use the R/C helicopter-oriented LHS for ... and it dries clear) applied with a "superfine" micro-brush and wicked in along the edges of the glazing ... very carefully!.
You do end up with a double wall ... one with horizontal joints and one with vertical joints which when laminated together produces a very stong wall section. If you are going to laminate a sheet of "novelty" siding on the outside, you can either make your laminations thinner (2 x 0.015") and then laminate your chosen siding on top or use one thick (0.040" or better) "snap" wall section to accurately locate windows and doors and then get strength and appearance from the novelty siding applied to the outside surface.
For corners, if the wall is "thick" (0.040" or better) I chamfer the edges to be joined, give the now-chamfered edges a thorough coat of solvent, clamp them up at 90 degrees, "paint" some more solvent to wick into the joint from the inside and let it sit to harden up. If I feel the joint needs more strength, I add a piece of large square styrene stock to the interior joint, "painting" it in with solvent as before. (wait to do that until the initial joint is solidified and you are certain it is at 90 degrees.) I have a couple of "Assembly Aids" that I made that are squared-up pieces of Plexiglass and wood, that have substantially wide chamfers on a couple of edges, to be used as interior "clamping surfaces" while the joint solidifies. The wide chamfer does a lot to insure that the block will not become a permanent part of the structure!
For glazing ... I save a lot of pieces of "carded POP packaging" that have large flat areas of vacuum-formed clear styrene/acetate to use as window glazing. (Yeah, I was accused by my former wife of being a "pack rat," but why throw away valuable raw materials that you would then at some point have to spend hard-earned money to purchase essentially the same basic thing from a hobby or art supply store?*) I carefully cut the squirreled away raw material to size, drop the glazing into the window casting from behind and affix it in place using canopy cement (one of the few things I can use the R/C helicopter-oriented LHS for ... and it dries clear) applied with a "superfine" micro-brush and wicked in along the edges of the glazing ... very carefully!.
*I grew up in the fifties and sixties as a Methodist ministers' son ... we had no money for frills.
If I wanted money to buy hobby supplies (frills) I had to earn it, and not by doing chores
around the house - that was an expected part of being responsible and doing your part
to help make the family unit operate. No, "earning money" meant working for someone
else who would pay you. I started caddying at the local golf course when I was eleven. I
just carried a single bag twice each Saturday in the beginning, but when I was 12 years
old I started carrying "doubles" twice each Saturday and at $1.50 per bag for 18 holes,
the money just seened to be "rolling in!"
If I wanted money to buy hobby supplies (frills) I had to earn it, and not by doing chores
around the house - that was an expected part of being responsible and doing your part
to help make the family unit operate. No, "earning money" meant working for someone
else who would pay you. I started caddying at the local golf course when I was eleven. I
just carried a single bag twice each Saturday in the beginning, but when I was 12 years
old I started carrying "doubles" twice each Saturday and at $1.50 per bag for 18 holes,
the money just seened to be "rolling in!"
biL
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln