03-05-2011, 02:22 AM
Well, Gus, added detail parts usually look better than cast-on ones, but sometimes removal of the cast-on representations can be difficult. Another thing to watch for is that the area where the new part is to be installed has sufficient depth to allow that part to sit within the proper vertical plane. Otherwise, you'll need to either remove additional material from the boiler casting or remove material from the back surface of the new detail part.
As for the numberboard lettering, decals are much easier to apply than dry transfers. It helps if you can support the boiler/loco vertically while you work: I used a very heavy beer mug for this purpose, first swaddling the loco with a handkerchief or other clean cloth. This protects the finish and helps it to stand straight within the mug. To better position this for working, I place it in the open drawer over the knee-hole opening in my work desk, bring it down to a more comfortable level.
Cut the numerals from the decal sheet using a sharp blade and a straightedge, trimming as closely as possible to the printed image. Use magnification if necessary. The reasons for trimming close are twofold: first, some number boards are partitioned, with a space for each individual numeral. to get it to lie flat, it has to fit within that space. The second reason is applicable to number boards which are not partitioned: trimming closely allows you to position the numerals as closely together as necessary to get them to fit within the available area. Numerals not trimmed closely may, as you're lining them up, bump adjacent numerals with their blank edges, disturbing the alignment of previously-done work.
I like to dip the trimmed numerals into distilled water, using tweezers, then set them atop the sheet of glass which forms my usual work surface. I then apply another drop or two of water, using my fingertip, then let them sit. The decals need to sit until the image releases from the backing paper - don't rush this step, as any remaining adhesive will cause a "blush" under the applied decal. The adhesive is not required for the decal to stick to the work, only to the paper. After all of the numerals are in place, use tweezers to nudge them into position. If the water evaporates as you work, apply a little more with your fingertip or tweezers. As the numerals align, blot lightly with a clean hanky or other lint-free cloth - don't use a tissue. If they move or don't look straight, re-wet and re-position, and do so until satisfied with the results. Next, use a decent-quality brush to gently apply a little decal-setting solution. I like to use Microset for the first application, applying only a small amount without disturbing the positioning of the numerals. After that has dried, I use Solvaset to ensure that everything snuggles right down, slitting any areas where trapped air causes silvering. Apply a gloss or semi-gloss finish after the setting solution has thoroughly dried.
Most loco decal sets contain numerals meant for number boards, and don't be afraid to use ones from other sets, when necessary. I often find diesel numberboard lettering to fit well on steam locos, too.
If you're lettering with dry transfers, number boards can be difficult or, with partitioned ones, next to impossible. In this case, apply the dry transfers to some clear decal paper - for such small amounts, the blank areas on many commercial decal sets is ample room. Don't apply the numerals too close to the edge of the paper, though, and don't, when you cut your numerals from the main decal sheet, cut too close to the numerals. The reason for this is the necessity to spray the soon-to-be decals with a clear (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte) finish. If they're too close to the edge, the spray may seal the edge of the paper backing, making it difficult for water to penetrate. Allow this clear finish to dry fully (at least 24 hours) then trim each numeral and apply as outlined above. For a non-partitioned number board, you may want to apply the dry transfers to the decal paper so that they align properly on the paper. Then, after clear coating, they can be cut-out and applied as a unit.
Wayne
As for the numberboard lettering, decals are much easier to apply than dry transfers. It helps if you can support the boiler/loco vertically while you work: I used a very heavy beer mug for this purpose, first swaddling the loco with a handkerchief or other clean cloth. This protects the finish and helps it to stand straight within the mug. To better position this for working, I place it in the open drawer over the knee-hole opening in my work desk, bring it down to a more comfortable level.
Cut the numerals from the decal sheet using a sharp blade and a straightedge, trimming as closely as possible to the printed image. Use magnification if necessary. The reasons for trimming close are twofold: first, some number boards are partitioned, with a space for each individual numeral. to get it to lie flat, it has to fit within that space. The second reason is applicable to number boards which are not partitioned: trimming closely allows you to position the numerals as closely together as necessary to get them to fit within the available area. Numerals not trimmed closely may, as you're lining them up, bump adjacent numerals with their blank edges, disturbing the alignment of previously-done work.
I like to dip the trimmed numerals into distilled water, using tweezers, then set them atop the sheet of glass which forms my usual work surface. I then apply another drop or two of water, using my fingertip, then let them sit. The decals need to sit until the image releases from the backing paper - don't rush this step, as any remaining adhesive will cause a "blush" under the applied decal. The adhesive is not required for the decal to stick to the work, only to the paper. After all of the numerals are in place, use tweezers to nudge them into position. If the water evaporates as you work, apply a little more with your fingertip or tweezers. As the numerals align, blot lightly with a clean hanky or other lint-free cloth - don't use a tissue. If they move or don't look straight, re-wet and re-position, and do so until satisfied with the results. Next, use a decent-quality brush to gently apply a little decal-setting solution. I like to use Microset for the first application, applying only a small amount without disturbing the positioning of the numerals. After that has dried, I use Solvaset to ensure that everything snuggles right down, slitting any areas where trapped air causes silvering. Apply a gloss or semi-gloss finish after the setting solution has thoroughly dried.
Most loco decal sets contain numerals meant for number boards, and don't be afraid to use ones from other sets, when necessary. I often find diesel numberboard lettering to fit well on steam locos, too.
If you're lettering with dry transfers, number boards can be difficult or, with partitioned ones, next to impossible. In this case, apply the dry transfers to some clear decal paper - for such small amounts, the blank areas on many commercial decal sets is ample room. Don't apply the numerals too close to the edge of the paper, though, and don't, when you cut your numerals from the main decal sheet, cut too close to the numerals. The reason for this is the necessity to spray the soon-to-be decals with a clear (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte) finish. If they're too close to the edge, the spray may seal the edge of the paper backing, making it difficult for water to penetrate. Allow this clear finish to dry fully (at least 24 hours) then trim each numeral and apply as outlined above. For a non-partitioned number board, you may want to apply the dry transfers to the decal paper so that they align properly on the paper. Then, after clear coating, they can be cut-out and applied as a unit.
Wayne