05-17-2011, 10:24 PM
Gus, Tetters, thank you! 
Greg - Here's how it'll probably go...plans change, naturally, but this is what I'm thinking presently. The bridge is sited a few inches away from a joint between layout sections so there are a couple considerations. First, I have to make sure the roadbed and rail on either side of the bridge is secure. All joints between layout gaps, even if I don't plan to break them except when it's time to move (years from now) will be secured using brass screws beneath the rail on either side of the gap, to which the rail is soldered.
So once I establish the rail on either side, I'll measure and cut the rail for the bridge, mark where it will be located on the bridge, then glue & spike it down to the bridge. I won't spike the rail on the 'ground' on either side of the bridge until the abutments are in place. I have not decided yet whether to make my own or to buy chooch abutments. I like the look of the chooch castings and they'll save some time, but I may enjoy building my own from scratch. We'll see. If the LHS doesn't have them in stock then that may make the decision for me!
The guardrails will be code 70 rail so that I can weather it without the weathering coming off due to track cleaning. They will be layed in situ using glue and perhaps a couple spikes here and there.
Thanks again, everybody, for following along with the build. I highly recommend these kits and I'll most likely buy another jig when the time comes to make my pile trestle across the slough/creek on the lift-out section.
Galen
Greg - Here's how it'll probably go...plans change, naturally, but this is what I'm thinking presently. The bridge is sited a few inches away from a joint between layout sections so there are a couple considerations. First, I have to make sure the roadbed and rail on either side of the bridge is secure. All joints between layout gaps, even if I don't plan to break them except when it's time to move (years from now) will be secured using brass screws beneath the rail on either side of the gap, to which the rail is soldered.
So once I establish the rail on either side, I'll measure and cut the rail for the bridge, mark where it will be located on the bridge, then glue & spike it down to the bridge. I won't spike the rail on the 'ground' on either side of the bridge until the abutments are in place. I have not decided yet whether to make my own or to buy chooch abutments. I like the look of the chooch castings and they'll save some time, but I may enjoy building my own from scratch. We'll see. If the LHS doesn't have them in stock then that may make the decision for me!
The guardrails will be code 70 rail so that I can weather it without the weathering coming off due to track cleaning. They will be layed in situ using glue and perhaps a couple spikes here and there.
Thanks again, everybody, for following along with the build. I highly recommend these kits and I'll most likely buy another jig when the time comes to make my pile trestle across the slough/creek on the lift-out section.
Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!