06-10-2011, 03:46 PM
torikoos Wrote:Thanks Jonte,
now there is a new idea I will have to try myself in time, Dettol & tapwater. Did it come of easy or did it require some scrubbing?
I've recently stripped an Athearn shell using brakefluid, but if I can use something a bit less messy then that would be better. :-)
As for backdrops: I've read about using vinyl floor off cuts, as you can easily bend and shape it in all sorts of contours to follow the room/boards etc, the back facing the layout of course, and that being painted. I think that you'd be able to clamp it on to the posts to your overhead lights etc, and therefore could remove it and roll up when moving the layout. Just a thought.
As for the running qualities of the Athearn loco: I asume you got yourselves an older 'bluebox' loco there? It will pay to take apart the gear towers, and clean it all out, re-lube etc. If the original motor is there, you could either opt to use a repowering kit from A-Line (which uses a Mashima can motor), or give the motor some TLC. Cleaning & polishing the commutator (with some 800 or 1000 grid sand paper), and perhaps replace the carbon brushes + springs. The original wheels, when worn, can be replaced by wheels from North West Short Line (NWSL). In general there's a lot you can do to improve the running of these Athearns. Finally, a good quality DCC decoder (if you're going DCC) will also help to smooth it all out. :-)
Keep us posted, and by all means , don't stop posting. There are quite a few on here that read every thread, but don't always reply. Lurking about , as you suggested :-)
Cheers!
Koos
Thanks Koos - you've reinvigorated me
The dettol & tap water method was one I happened upon quite by chance, after I was also advised to go down the brake fluid route. Although I'm a new to the hobby, I'm not totally naive and alarm bells rang at the thought of plastic being dipped in brakefluid and the possible consequenec of a change of state from solid to liquid! To answer your question, Koos, it was easy peasy with most of the paint/transfers dissolving into the solution. The more persistant bits of paint that remained, had turned to slime that was easily shifted with the stroke of an old tooth brush. A rinse under the tap and a quick polish with a clean rag returned the loco to its pre-painted factory state. Admittedly, I returned the bonnet of the loco to a fresh solution for a further day or so as the plethora of louvre vents on each side showed a faint residue of paint had remained, and as I was just too lazy to go over them with a tooth pick as suggested, took the easiest option by putting them back into the solution. A quick clean with the old tooth brush and rinse under the tap resulted in a bonnet that was as clean as a whistle and I shall get round to starting the detailing in the next few days (the Microscale order arrived this afternoon - Friday).
Here's a link to the original instructions which I trust you'll find useful <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-from-Metal-and-Plastic-Models-with-Dettol">http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-fro ... ith-Dettol</a><!-- m -->, and I've posted a couple of before and after shots of the subject. As a footnote, the best part of this - unlike the brake fluid - is that there are no noxious substances that require care in their handling and disposal, and it'll even kill a germ or two!! The only word of caution I'd offer is that plastic cement/adhesive will perish so no Airfix kits
Before
After
Detailing parts as mentioned in text also shown, which will no doubt be familiar to readers from N. America.
Thanks for passing on the idea for the backscene; I shall give it much consideration.
With regard to the age of the Athearn, as you can see from the photos it's a red box not blue so don't know if that makes it older or newer? Anyway, thanks for the solutions to the issue with poor running qualities - it's okay at speed but I need this to crawl - however, the simplest solution ( I always opt for those!!) as I'm not going down the DCC route just yet, is to purchase a pulse controller from Black Cat Industries as kindly suggested by good old Jack shortliner - now here's somebody always ready to help
I believe the proprietor is away until the 13th of June so will place an order on his return.By the way, I had a quick 'butcher's' at you blog last night - an excellent purchase for your son BTW - my Bachmann GP 38-2 is a sweet little runner with one or two nice little details to boot - everything, I'm afraid, my Athearn switcher isn't. Their service is first class - being clueless, I emailed them to enquire as to how to remove the body after accidentally dropping the poor little loco from a great height, damaging a bogie in the process. I received a prompt reply with an offer of further help if needed. Despite the bad press Bachmann American HO has received, I am most impressed and I'm sure your son will be extremely happy with his new purchase. Talking of dropping locos from great heights: where did I put that darned Athearn switcher
Keep looking in and thanks again,
Jonte