08-02-2011, 10:17 PM
I'd go with the Code 83 and the Insul-frog turnouts. You won't be having all the wiring problems that you'll have with the Electro-frog turnouts and not have to depend so much on how well the points make contact with the stock rails for reliable operation. If you're not operating 4 wheel locomotives, you won't have any problem with loco's stalling going through the turnouts. I have a couple of short wheel base GE 45 ton locomotives that I picked up and they'll walk right through the turnouts without ever stalling.
I use the Insul-frog turnouts and all I need to do is place them where I want and am able to operate the layout with only one set of power feeders to the track. I've changed the track plan around several times over the past couple of months and it only takes me about an hour to completely rearrange the track and turnouts and I'm in business. I do not solder all the joints on my layout(s), other then places where I have a section of track longer than a 36in section of flex or where I want smooth wide radius curves. I made that mistake once years ago and won't do that again. Bad news if you decide to change your track and want to be able to salvage your turnouts.
Once I actually start final construction, I'll put power feeders to every section of track and turnout so I don't have to rely on just the rail joints to feed power.
Incidentally, the Code 100 Peco turnouts may be based on European style, but they blend right in with Atlas flex track and once the rail is painted and the track ballasted, few people can tell the difference. Depends on how detailed you want the track to look. I built one layout some years ago using Code 70 track and turnouts and I always had to point out to people that the rail was much smaller then the code 100, in spite of the obvious size difference.
I use the Insul-frog turnouts and all I need to do is place them where I want and am able to operate the layout with only one set of power feeders to the track. I've changed the track plan around several times over the past couple of months and it only takes me about an hour to completely rearrange the track and turnouts and I'm in business. I do not solder all the joints on my layout(s), other then places where I have a section of track longer than a 36in section of flex or where I want smooth wide radius curves. I made that mistake once years ago and won't do that again. Bad news if you decide to change your track and want to be able to salvage your turnouts.
Once I actually start final construction, I'll put power feeders to every section of track and turnout so I don't have to rely on just the rail joints to feed power.
Incidentally, the Code 100 Peco turnouts may be based on European style, but they blend right in with Atlas flex track and once the rail is painted and the track ballasted, few people can tell the difference. Depends on how detailed you want the track to look. I built one layout some years ago using Code 70 track and turnouts and I always had to point out to people that the rail was much smaller then the code 100, in spite of the obvious size difference.
Ed
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"