01-23-2009, 03:13 PM
Michael,
I have built quite a few P2K kits recently and I have come to the conclusion I like the plastic Grabs and details.
The first thing I do is over drill every hole so the parts slip in fairly easy. I use needle nose pliers, not tweezers to handle the parts, and work on a white surface. I assemble as much of the car as possible before putting any of the ladders, stirrups, grabs, brake parts, etc. They will break easily when putting the body on the base. I use Testors liquid plastic cement (3502) in a small hypodermic syringe and shoot a drop in beside each hole. It sucks right into the holes.
The picture on the Mathers stock car box may be printed in reverse so don't use it as a guide. (don't ask).
The stock car is a very nice model, but takes a long time to assemble. I was about 4 hours on my first one, and I hope I can do the rest a lot faster.
To add to tetters post, be careful removing the parts from the sprues, that is where I break them if I break any.
Good luck
Charlie
I have built quite a few P2K kits recently and I have come to the conclusion I like the plastic Grabs and details.
The first thing I do is over drill every hole so the parts slip in fairly easy. I use needle nose pliers, not tweezers to handle the parts, and work on a white surface. I assemble as much of the car as possible before putting any of the ladders, stirrups, grabs, brake parts, etc. They will break easily when putting the body on the base. I use Testors liquid plastic cement (3502) in a small hypodermic syringe and shoot a drop in beside each hole. It sucks right into the holes.
The picture on the Mathers stock car box may be printed in reverse so don't use it as a guide. (don't ask).
The stock car is a very nice model, but takes a long time to assemble. I was about 4 hours on my first one, and I hope I can do the rest a lot faster.
To add to tetters post, be careful removing the parts from the sprues, that is where I break them if I break any.
Good luck
Charlie