Lets build a camelback,, or two.

[e-paw]

Thanks everyone. Now I really want to get the boilers mounted on the drives. Normally this is no big deal, I have always done this on older drives where there is only a motor & worm gear above the frame, but in this case the 2-10-0's are of a more modern split frame design. On the models there is a large open section on the underside of the boiler that clears the built in weight of the split frame. If I remove all the material on my boilers to fit this feature I will lose 90% of the soldered seam that holds the boiler round. I first thought of altering the frame, but this would result in a lot of milling and cutting that could result in changing the performance of the smooth running drive. Then I thought what if I sleeve the brass over plastic boiler and bond the 2 together with a high strength epoxy. This will insure that the brass boiler does not louse it's shape.

I striped all the detail parts off of the 2 boilers and cut off any parts that would protrude past the brass boilers. I will probably use some of the detail parts for this build on the new boilers,, It's freelanced so it can't be wrong.     I will have to make some careful measurements of the opening before I glue them in, I'm a little concerned that I might mess up & cut the opening too large and ruin all that work up to this point.

Well a test fit proved that this will work out just right. This pic really shows the difference between a standard firebox and a Wooten type.     I'll pickup some epoxy tomorrow and get gluing when I get home from work. This will also give me a nice strong joint between the two brass sections of the new boiler, and the factory mount at the rear of the old firebox is now something that I do not have to fabricate. Once this is complete I can add the backhead casting. I think this should turn out well.