01-31-2009, 01:52 PM
Josh and Kevin, thanks. It has not been track tested yet. If I have a bout of insomnia tonight I will put some power to it.
Josh, the deluxe kits have all the bells and whistles. If you want working classification/marker lights you will have to either look to Tomar, or order some fiber optic line. Walthers sells both. They also don't come with a light for the tender. The standard USRA design didn't have them, but the PM added them, so I ordered the parts from Cal-Scale (Bowser).
NKP, the predrilled holes are nice. Some of them are cast holes, and have a fair amount of flash in them. A few haven't lined up the way they should. If you are going to build one, make sure you have a dremel, some micro bits, a pin vice, flush cutter and some jeweler's files. I have had to ream quite a few of the holes. Fortunately I have not had to tap any of them. Also, some of the screws are too long and have to be cut after installation.
The casting is not the best quality, but it is soft metal and a jeweler's file cleans it up nicely.
This kit has it's quirks, as all kits do, but all in all it has been fairly smooth sailing so far. I have noticed that the casting at the top of the steam dome is pitted, but I can fix that with some solder, or JB Weld. The rivets for the valve gear require some patience, double and triple checking, and a light touch. If the rivet is under flared, it will fall out (and best of luck finding it, fortunately they include a fair amount of spares). If they are overly flared the gear will bind. The kit includes a flaring tool. You will need a solid surface, like a pice of metal, and a light hammer, like a jeweler's hammer, to tap the flare tool with. I would also recomend a multi-meter, or at least an ohm-meter. It is hard to tell which side of the drivers are insulated by sight. You would eventually need one to determine the electrical stats, such as current draw, if you are going to add a decoder to it. This is the kind of kit for people who really like kits, and have time. If this is rushed, there is a BIG chance for some serious mistakes. I have made a few, but they have been small and easily corrected. That is largely due to my approach to building kits. Before I move on to the next step, I double check the last step.
When I finish the kit, I will do an over-all review of the build if enough people want to read it.
Matt
Josh, the deluxe kits have all the bells and whistles. If you want working classification/marker lights you will have to either look to Tomar, or order some fiber optic line. Walthers sells both. They also don't come with a light for the tender. The standard USRA design didn't have them, but the PM added them, so I ordered the parts from Cal-Scale (Bowser).
NKP, the predrilled holes are nice. Some of them are cast holes, and have a fair amount of flash in them. A few haven't lined up the way they should. If you are going to build one, make sure you have a dremel, some micro bits, a pin vice, flush cutter and some jeweler's files. I have had to ream quite a few of the holes. Fortunately I have not had to tap any of them. Also, some of the screws are too long and have to be cut after installation.
The casting is not the best quality, but it is soft metal and a jeweler's file cleans it up nicely.
This kit has it's quirks, as all kits do, but all in all it has been fairly smooth sailing so far. I have noticed that the casting at the top of the steam dome is pitted, but I can fix that with some solder, or JB Weld. The rivets for the valve gear require some patience, double and triple checking, and a light touch. If the rivet is under flared, it will fall out (and best of luck finding it, fortunately they include a fair amount of spares). If they are overly flared the gear will bind. The kit includes a flaring tool. You will need a solid surface, like a pice of metal, and a light hammer, like a jeweler's hammer, to tap the flare tool with. I would also recomend a multi-meter, or at least an ohm-meter. It is hard to tell which side of the drivers are insulated by sight. You would eventually need one to determine the electrical stats, such as current draw, if you are going to add a decoder to it. This is the kind of kit for people who really like kits, and have time. If this is rushed, there is a BIG chance for some serious mistakes. I have made a few, but they have been small and easily corrected. That is largely due to my approach to building kits. Before I move on to the next step, I double check the last step.
When I finish the kit, I will do an over-all review of the build if enough people want to read it.
Matt
Don't follow me, I'm lost too.