10-23-2012, 04:41 AM
Thank you Wayne for your comprehensive reply. I wll try your method on an less critical loco first. I like the hints about blocking the gap and using a run in drill.
For circuitry, you might be interested in using a constant current device LM334Z if not using DCC.
I have made up this circuit and it does not depend on motor current, as some can motors do not draw enough current to produce the proper voltage drop for a diode network. But the LM334Z does not allow the dimming in reverse effect that the diode triangle does. The circuit and construction details are on <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/circuit.html">http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/circuit.html</a><!-- m --> if this of any help to you. I haven't tried it yet, but I think reverse dmming could be achieved with a second diode controlled LM334Z and a higher value resistor.
FYI, my favourite road is C&O and I have a brass Alleghany that turned 50 on Anzac Day (25th April) that I bought from the owner of REBoxx who fitted the original box with a new foam insert. Nice. Other brass is a C&O L2a 4-6-4, Santa Fe 2-8-0, Santa Fe 4-8-2 factory paint, USRA 2-8-2 Heavy, D&RGW M75 4-8-2 (3 cyl). I also have a very old Tenshodo NYC Hudson that I bought years ago as a wreck. I have been having fun getting it to run reliably and fitting it with constant lighting. It really needs a can motor to lower the starting voltage and a new gearbox, as it it is fairly quiet forward but a real growler in reverse, I think some of this is due to a lot of fore and aft end play in the OFM motor, and next time I have it apart I will see if I can do anything about that, I'm working on reconstructing the front ladders which were partly missing or have fallen apart, but I would like to build a resistance soldering unit before I complete them, as they have a habit of falling apart when i try to attach them to the running boards.
I also have some nice modern plastic with DCC and sound, and while I like sound, I really enyoy the quiet smooth running of good brass, and the feel when I pick them up.
Anyway, thanks again forr your help on the lighting installation.
Regards, Paul
For circuitry, you might be interested in using a constant current device LM334Z if not using DCC.
I have made up this circuit and it does not depend on motor current, as some can motors do not draw enough current to produce the proper voltage drop for a diode network. But the LM334Z does not allow the dimming in reverse effect that the diode triangle does. The circuit and construction details are on <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/circuit.html">http://www.pollensoftware.com/railroad/circuit.html</a><!-- m --> if this of any help to you. I haven't tried it yet, but I think reverse dmming could be achieved with a second diode controlled LM334Z and a higher value resistor.
FYI, my favourite road is C&O and I have a brass Alleghany that turned 50 on Anzac Day (25th April) that I bought from the owner of REBoxx who fitted the original box with a new foam insert. Nice. Other brass is a C&O L2a 4-6-4, Santa Fe 2-8-0, Santa Fe 4-8-2 factory paint, USRA 2-8-2 Heavy, D&RGW M75 4-8-2 (3 cyl). I also have a very old Tenshodo NYC Hudson that I bought years ago as a wreck. I have been having fun getting it to run reliably and fitting it with constant lighting. It really needs a can motor to lower the starting voltage and a new gearbox, as it it is fairly quiet forward but a real growler in reverse, I think some of this is due to a lot of fore and aft end play in the OFM motor, and next time I have it apart I will see if I can do anything about that, I'm working on reconstructing the front ladders which were partly missing or have fallen apart, but I would like to build a resistance soldering unit before I complete them, as they have a habit of falling apart when i try to attach them to the running boards.
I also have some nice modern plastic with DCC and sound, and while I like sound, I really enyoy the quiet smooth running of good brass, and the feel when I pick them up.
Anyway, thanks again forr your help on the lighting installation.
Regards, Paul