12-15-2008, 06:27 PM
To be honest this is my first brass steam locomotive restoration. I have worked on plenty of plastic locomotives doing detailing and painting. Before I even started I researched what tools would be needed and read as many articles I could about brass steam locomotives. Once I had made a list of what was needed I ordered everything. After that it has just been careful work and thinking things through as I go and working slowly. I have actually found working on brass steam locomotives is not all that different than their plastic cousins. The biggest thing I found is you need proper soldering tools and to be able to solder good.
I found having a good stock of the following items made things easier:
-metric or standard bolts ( 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm, 1.7mm and 2mm )
-replacement driver springs
-replacement gearbox ( NWSL 28:1 or 36:1 )
-new can motor ( 100 times better than the open frame motor )
-some drive couplings and drive shaft stock
-brass sheet, brass wire, brass shim stock ( various sizes )
For tools:
-tools for cutting brass
-good measuring tools ( ruler and micrometer )
-a good screwdriver set
-small nut drivers
-good solderong iron or two ( I have a 40 watt and a 100 watt )
Even better is a resistance soldering unit. They are expensive so I built me own. Cost me about $75. Works great and has the power to solder 1/4 brass.
I also bought a puller for removing wheels off axles, a quartering jig for requartering drivers and some alignment tools to make sure the drive gear is 90 degrees to the axle when it is pressed on. Seeing as I plan to stick with steam locomotives for my motive power the last few tools will come in really handy. All were purchased from NWSL.
I have been using lacquer thinner for paint removal but I also bought a Badger sandblaster. It is small and easy to use but messy so I use it out doors. It makes quick work of removing paint and tarnish. I do not use the sand that comes with the sandblaster. I use baking soda. It works just as well and will not harm the brass. It also gives a nice dull finish to the brass which will help the paint stick better. It also does not harm the enviroment so I either hose it off the driveway or let the rain take it away. Later I plan to build and sandblasting booth using a laundry tub so I can reuse the baking soda few times before throwing it out.
Wayne R
I found having a good stock of the following items made things easier:
-metric or standard bolts ( 1mm, 1.2mm, 1.4mm, 1.7mm and 2mm )
-replacement driver springs
-replacement gearbox ( NWSL 28:1 or 36:1 )
-new can motor ( 100 times better than the open frame motor )
-some drive couplings and drive shaft stock
-brass sheet, brass wire, brass shim stock ( various sizes )
For tools:
-tools for cutting brass
-good measuring tools ( ruler and micrometer )
-a good screwdriver set
-small nut drivers
-good solderong iron or two ( I have a 40 watt and a 100 watt )
Even better is a resistance soldering unit. They are expensive so I built me own. Cost me about $75. Works great and has the power to solder 1/4 brass.
I also bought a puller for removing wheels off axles, a quartering jig for requartering drivers and some alignment tools to make sure the drive gear is 90 degrees to the axle when it is pressed on. Seeing as I plan to stick with steam locomotives for my motive power the last few tools will come in really handy. All were purchased from NWSL.
I have been using lacquer thinner for paint removal but I also bought a Badger sandblaster. It is small and easy to use but messy so I use it out doors. It makes quick work of removing paint and tarnish. I do not use the sand that comes with the sandblaster. I use baking soda. It works just as well and will not harm the brass. It also gives a nice dull finish to the brass which will help the paint stick better. It also does not harm the enviroment so I either hose it off the driveway or let the rain take it away. Later I plan to build and sandblasting booth using a laundry tub so I can reuse the baking soda few times before throwing it out.
Wayne R