10-22-2012, 07:32 PM
Paul
I use the 2 x 3mm super incandesent LEDs by Ngineering. They are the second ones down on the following web page of theirs. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngineering.com/lightng.htm">http://www.ngineering.com/lightng.htm</a><!-- m --> For wires I use their #38 magnet wire. It is at the top of this page. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm">http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm</a><!-- m --> I solder a piece of wire to eacj pad on the back of the LED ( you will need a good eye site or and opti-visor ) then I insulate the solder pads with a little bit of silicon or liquid electrical tap so the LED does not short out on the inside of the brass headlight. To run the wires fron the headlight into the boiler I drill a hole in the back of the headlight and through the boiler front just big enough for the two wires. I do not remeber the size but it is smaller than a 1/16th" drill bit. I also pain the wires black for a inch or so after the LED so the green and red lacquer coating on the wires does not show between the headlight and the boiler front. With thee wires painted black and thanks to their small size they barely even show in the small gap behind the headlight.When you drill the hole for the wires throught the back of the headlight and through the boiler front puts a small piece of wood between the headlight and boiler front to keep from bending the headlight back under the pressure of drilling.Also do not use a new out of the package bit. I find one that has been used a half dozen times is less likely to grab and twist the headlight off.
I also paint the inside of the headlight silver.For a lens I use a MV Products lens with the foil backing removed.If you are very careful you should be able to lift the foil backing on the MV lens at the edge of the lens using the tip of a #11 xacto blade.Once you get a bit of the foil lifted it can be peeled off with a pair of tweezers.Just be carful not to scratch the lens.
The LED will need a proper resistor for both DC or DCC use as they are only 3 volts.I do not remember off hand the size I used but I will check my notes in the next few days and post it here if I wrote it down.If you do a google search you should be able to find a online calculator that lets you enter the voltage you wish to use to power the LED, The voltage the LED requires and the milliamps the LED pulls and it will then give you a resistor size.
I should also mention if you are unsure you can wire the 2 x 3mm LED that they can be found prewired on Ebay for a half decent price.I wire my own even though I have shaky hands but I can see where the prewired ones would save a little frustration.
Wayne Reid
I use the 2 x 3mm super incandesent LEDs by Ngineering. They are the second ones down on the following web page of theirs. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngineering.com/lightng.htm">http://www.ngineering.com/lightng.htm</a><!-- m --> For wires I use their #38 magnet wire. It is at the top of this page. <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm">http://www.ngineering.com/accessories.htm</a><!-- m --> I solder a piece of wire to eacj pad on the back of the LED ( you will need a good eye site or and opti-visor ) then I insulate the solder pads with a little bit of silicon or liquid electrical tap so the LED does not short out on the inside of the brass headlight. To run the wires fron the headlight into the boiler I drill a hole in the back of the headlight and through the boiler front just big enough for the two wires. I do not remeber the size but it is smaller than a 1/16th" drill bit. I also pain the wires black for a inch or so after the LED so the green and red lacquer coating on the wires does not show between the headlight and the boiler front. With thee wires painted black and thanks to their small size they barely even show in the small gap behind the headlight.When you drill the hole for the wires throught the back of the headlight and through the boiler front puts a small piece of wood between the headlight and boiler front to keep from bending the headlight back under the pressure of drilling.Also do not use a new out of the package bit. I find one that has been used a half dozen times is less likely to grab and twist the headlight off.
I also paint the inside of the headlight silver.For a lens I use a MV Products lens with the foil backing removed.If you are very careful you should be able to lift the foil backing on the MV lens at the edge of the lens using the tip of a #11 xacto blade.Once you get a bit of the foil lifted it can be peeled off with a pair of tweezers.Just be carful not to scratch the lens.
The LED will need a proper resistor for both DC or DCC use as they are only 3 volts.I do not remember off hand the size I used but I will check my notes in the next few days and post it here if I wrote it down.If you do a google search you should be able to find a online calculator that lets you enter the voltage you wish to use to power the LED, The voltage the LED requires and the milliamps the LED pulls and it will then give you a resistor size.
I should also mention if you are unsure you can wire the 2 x 3mm LED that they can be found prewired on Ebay for a half decent price.I wire my own even though I have shaky hands but I can see where the prewired ones would save a little frustration.
Wayne Reid