08-27-2009, 09:59 PM
Just like painting with a brush, the type of bristles and the angle at which the brush is held do make a difference. I prefer a very soft-bristled 3/4" brush, and use it with the handle almost parallel to the track. A light touch helps, too. For the ballast shoulders, I let it find its own angle of repose, and adjust it only to keep it reasonably constant on both sides of the track. The tapping-the-handle trick takes care of any stray ballast on the ties or rail.
For the space between the ties surrounding the throwbar, I pre-paint it black before ballasting and keep the ballast out of this area completely. Real railroads often grease this area and the tie-tops over which the points move, using a bucket of grease/oil and a string mop. I find that applying some plastic-compatible oil to the tops of the ties over which the points move (after the ballast is in place, but before any wetting agent or glue mixture is applied) helps to ensure that the point rails don't become glued in place. I park them mid-way in their throw, so that they touch neither stock rail.
Proper tools and preparation can make ballasting a relatively quick and easy task, paying big dividends in track appearance for a very minimal expenditure in cash.
Wayne
For the space between the ties surrounding the throwbar, I pre-paint it black before ballasting and keep the ballast out of this area completely. Real railroads often grease this area and the tie-tops over which the points move, using a bucket of grease/oil and a string mop. I find that applying some plastic-compatible oil to the tops of the ties over which the points move (after the ballast is in place, but before any wetting agent or glue mixture is applied) helps to ensure that the point rails don't become glued in place. I park them mid-way in their throw, so that they touch neither stock rail.
Proper tools and preparation can make ballasting a relatively quick and easy task, paying big dividends in track appearance for a very minimal expenditure in cash.
Wayne