05-16-2010, 04:16 PM
Now, when you get near the top of the hills, you actually have to pay a bit of attention. The top 2 or 3 layers must conform to what yo want the terrain to look like so they have to be fitted. I fitted the top 2 layers to the second level of benchwork so I could use drywall screws to secure them.
Each layer is glued to the layer below (using Emer's white glue - right off the shelf - not diluted) and I used wooden shish-ka-bob sticks (coated in Elmer's glue) to secure them. Think "wooden re-bar" They added extra support to the thin faces.
So - the bottom layer of each is screwed to the benchwork. The 2nd and 3rd layers are glued and screwed to the layer below --- the other layers are glued and "pegged" together with the skewers.
The top 2 layers are screwed to the layer below and the 2nd level's benchwork. Therefore they are "Cat proof"
Each layer is glued to the layer below (using Emer's white glue - right off the shelf - not diluted) and I used wooden shish-ka-bob sticks (coated in Elmer's glue) to secure them. Think "wooden re-bar" They added extra support to the thin faces.
So - the bottom layer of each is screwed to the benchwork. The 2nd and 3rd layers are glued and screwed to the layer below --- the other layers are glued and "pegged" together with the skewers.
The top 2 layers are screwed to the layer below and the 2nd level's benchwork. Therefore they are "Cat proof"
~~ Mikey KB3VBR (Admin)
~~ NARA Member # 75
~~ Baldwin Eddystone Unofficial Website
~~ I wonder what that would look like in 1:20.3???
~~ NARA Member # 75
~~ Baldwin Eddystone Unofficial Website
~~ I wonder what that would look like in 1:20.3???