11-08-2010, 07:46 AM
Squidbait Wrote:Tetters,
Good first crack at sound in the SW9! It's a bear of an install. You could have saved yourself the bother of using a resistor on the LEDs by wiring them to the F5, F6 outputs - they're 3.3 volts. Then you re-map the F0 outputs to the F5/F6 by setting CV33 to 16 and CV34 to 32.
Also, without any baffle, you may not get as much sound out of that speaker as you could. The more you can seal the area around the speaker so that it pressurizes the shell when it's in place, the more volume and better-quality sound you'll get.
That said, once you get it tweaked the way you want, you're going to be very happy with the sound in your switcher.
Ahhh...so that's why you suggested using them in my last sound install thread! I'll make that change. I need all the room I can get in there. To clarify, I run the common wire (blue) off the F5/F6 outputs correct?
I did try to get everything in the cab but it wasn't happening. LED, Capacitor, and speaker with the baffle. It is a lot to cram in there.
It runs nice and smooth, although a little jerky at speed step one, but I think that has more to do with the drive mechanism then anything else. I may need to put a small swab of grease on there as I did scrub all the parts clean before putting everything back together again and I didn't have any lube to put on the gear tower. Maybe the guys at the Club can spare a bit of Labelle grease on Tuesday?
So the to do list on this in order to get this puppy all buttoned up.
1) Modify factory supplied baffle enclosure in order to get it to fit under the decoder...which should be easier once the resistor is gone.
2) Re-wire LED's to F5/F6 outputs and eliminate the need for resistors on the LED's...this should also help with my front light brightness issues.
Still a bit to do.