02-06-2011, 12:00 PM
SP1's answers to questions 1 through 4 are pretty much the same as mine. For this kind of a structure it is easier in the end to build from scratch than to kitbash. Don't be intimidated by "scratch" ... it's only a word and not a particularly dangerous one.
I offer the following as a means to get you started ...
With all the windows on each wall, cutting each one out roughly, and filing to the correct opening would take forever and leave in doubt getting them all perfectly aligned with each other.
If it were me doing this project, I would cut two pieces for each wall from 0.015” or 0.020" styrene sheet. Tape them together, end-to-end and mark off the upper and lower edges of the horizontal row of windows. Now "scribe" those two lines lightly (for now.) When scribing lines in styrene, I use the back edge ot the point of a #16 Xacto blade ... you are scoring, not cutting.
Now, rearrange the walls and tape them together top-to-bottom. Mark off the left and right vertical edges of each window. Scribe as before.
You now have two identical walls, with window locations in the exact same place on both walls. Scribe the lines again once or twice to insure they are well and truly scribed. (At this point, I used to use a soft pencil or fine ballpoint pen to mark the walls, using a numbering/lettering system so as to be able know the relationship of each piece to the others around it … I put an "X" on the window openings.)
Next, take one wall and "snap" along the two horizontally scribed lines. Then holding the middle piece, snap on the vertically scribed lines. Discard the "X" (window) pieces to the scrap box. Then using a solvent, such as lacquer thinner (some use MEK,) "painted" liberally on each "joining edge," reassemble the wall on a flat surface on top of a piece of waxed paper. "Float” a little more of the solvent along/into each of the scribed/snapped/rejoined lines. Allow the assembly to sit undisturbed for fifteen minutes or more until the solvent has evaporated and the styrene has re-solidified at the joints.
On the remaining wall section, snap on the vertically scribed lines, and then, snap ONLY the vertical pieces that have an "X" (window) in the middle of them. Once again, “X” (window) pieces go in the scrap box and the same procedure is followed to reassemble the wall with solvent on a flat surface on wax paper.
Don’t forget leave out the bottom piece where there will be a door (I forgot about doors the first time I tried this technique … I’m glad there was no one else around … I was embarrassed to be around myself … what an idiot!)
You now have two identical walls, one with horizontal joint lines and one with vertical joint lines. Place them together and using masking tape, tape along the top edge, forming a “tape hinge.” Flip the walls open, “paint the surfaces” liberally with solvent and flip the one wall over closing it on top of the other. At this point I generally “paint the solvent along each edge and allow the solvent to wick into the mating surfaces. Place a piece of waxed paper on top and carefully place a weight on the assembly until everything has set up and solidified.
That system works great for structures that will be “stucco” or maybe have a thin embossed brick sheet laminated on the outside. The window castings should just drop right in, being affixed from the inside with a little solvent applied with your trusty decent quality artists brush used only for applying solvent (I dipped the end of the handle of mine in bright orange paint to remind me … no paint on this brush!)
Since your structure has what appears to be clapboard siding, I would use the same procedure, but on only one wall, at least 0.020” thick. I would then laminate a thin piece of clapboard siding on top and be faced with cutting the window openings (again, scribed through the window openings in the “structure” wall with the back of a #16 blade, the drilling a series of holes cutting the webs in between and lightly filing to the scribed line.) It will take a while, but with the windows all located correctly (and all correctly sized) the window castings should drop into the openings perfectly.
I don’t know … every one has their own way of doing things. That’s my “wall-building from scratch” technique … for what it’s worth. I vary the process as need be to fit the situation, but in general, that’s where it is today in its evolution.
Whether you use that process or not, I hope by offering it as a potential solution to the problem before you, I have caused you to consider trying some new (to you) scratch-building techniques.
Have Fun!
Take Photos … lots of them as you progress!
I offer the following as a means to get you started ...
With all the windows on each wall, cutting each one out roughly, and filing to the correct opening would take forever and leave in doubt getting them all perfectly aligned with each other.
If it were me doing this project, I would cut two pieces for each wall from 0.015” or 0.020" styrene sheet. Tape them together, end-to-end and mark off the upper and lower edges of the horizontal row of windows. Now "scribe" those two lines lightly (for now.) When scribing lines in styrene, I use the back edge ot the point of a #16 Xacto blade ... you are scoring, not cutting.
Now, rearrange the walls and tape them together top-to-bottom. Mark off the left and right vertical edges of each window. Scribe as before.
You now have two identical walls, with window locations in the exact same place on both walls. Scribe the lines again once or twice to insure they are well and truly scribed. (At this point, I used to use a soft pencil or fine ballpoint pen to mark the walls, using a numbering/lettering system so as to be able know the relationship of each piece to the others around it … I put an "X" on the window openings.)
Next, take one wall and "snap" along the two horizontally scribed lines. Then holding the middle piece, snap on the vertically scribed lines. Discard the "X" (window) pieces to the scrap box. Then using a solvent, such as lacquer thinner (some use MEK,) "painted" liberally on each "joining edge," reassemble the wall on a flat surface on top of a piece of waxed paper. "Float” a little more of the solvent along/into each of the scribed/snapped/rejoined lines. Allow the assembly to sit undisturbed for fifteen minutes or more until the solvent has evaporated and the styrene has re-solidified at the joints.
On the remaining wall section, snap on the vertically scribed lines, and then, snap ONLY the vertical pieces that have an "X" (window) in the middle of them. Once again, “X” (window) pieces go in the scrap box and the same procedure is followed to reassemble the wall with solvent on a flat surface on wax paper.
Don’t forget leave out the bottom piece where there will be a door (I forgot about doors the first time I tried this technique … I’m glad there was no one else around … I was embarrassed to be around myself … what an idiot!)
You now have two identical walls, one with horizontal joint lines and one with vertical joint lines. Place them together and using masking tape, tape along the top edge, forming a “tape hinge.” Flip the walls open, “paint the surfaces” liberally with solvent and flip the one wall over closing it on top of the other. At this point I generally “paint the solvent along each edge and allow the solvent to wick into the mating surfaces. Place a piece of waxed paper on top and carefully place a weight on the assembly until everything has set up and solidified.
That system works great for structures that will be “stucco” or maybe have a thin embossed brick sheet laminated on the outside. The window castings should just drop right in, being affixed from the inside with a little solvent applied with your trusty decent quality artists brush used only for applying solvent (I dipped the end of the handle of mine in bright orange paint to remind me … no paint on this brush!)
Since your structure has what appears to be clapboard siding, I would use the same procedure, but on only one wall, at least 0.020” thick. I would then laminate a thin piece of clapboard siding on top and be faced with cutting the window openings (again, scribed through the window openings in the “structure” wall with the back of a #16 blade, the drilling a series of holes cutting the webs in between and lightly filing to the scribed line.) It will take a while, but with the windows all located correctly (and all correctly sized) the window castings should drop into the openings perfectly.
I don’t know … every one has their own way of doing things. That’s my “wall-building from scratch” technique … for what it’s worth. I vary the process as need be to fit the situation, but in general, that’s where it is today in its evolution.
Whether you use that process or not, I hope by offering it as a potential solution to the problem before you, I have caused you to consider trying some new (to you) scratch-building techniques.
Have Fun!
Take Photos … lots of them as you progress!
biL
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln