12-02-2012, 02:06 PM
Just to add my two-cents worth, I've soldered a bunch of rail joiners on N scale track without any kind of heat sinks and never melted a tie. The secret, if there is one, is to use flux. I use a water soluble liquid flux, I brush it onto the rail and the joiner, apply the heat first, then put the solder where the end of the joiner is on the rail. That way, the solder isn't touching the iron and so when it melts, you know the metal is hot enough and the solder will wick underneath the joiner. Keep the iron on the joint for a second or so after you've removed the solder wire.
I usually use the soldered joiner for any wire connections since it already has solder on it, it takes less heat to complete the connection. First, tin the end of the wire using flux, heat and put solder on the end. Next, hold the wire next to the joiner and heat both at the same time until the solder melts. Hold for a second then remove the heat.
I use a temperature controlled iron set for 700 degrees. I also clean the iron tip on a wet sponge each time I go to make a solder connection. This is important because it removes the oxidation buildup on the tip.
I usually use the soldered joiner for any wire connections since it already has solder on it, it takes less heat to complete the connection. First, tin the end of the wire using flux, heat and put solder on the end. Next, hold the wire next to the joiner and heat both at the same time until the solder melts. Hold for a second then remove the heat.
I use a temperature controlled iron set for 700 degrees. I also clean the iron tip on a wet sponge each time I go to make a solder connection. This is important because it removes the oxidation buildup on the tip.
Don (ezdays) Day
Board administrator and
founder of the CANYON STATE RAILROAD
Board administrator and
founder of the CANYON STATE RAILROAD