01-12-2014, 01:21 PM
Contact cement is my preference. For styrene, it helps to first prep the gluing surface with lacquer thinner - just brush it on and let it sit while you apply the cement to the wood, then apply the contact cement to the styrene. (The prepping helps to prevent the solvents in the contact cement from being drawn into the styrene, which can otherwise result in a weak bond.) Let the two surfaces sit for the time recommended on your brand of contact cement - usually it's 15 or 20 minutes, and most allow up to an hour-or-so.....joining the pieces too soon will yield a poor bond. Sometimes, wood will require a second application - usually when too much of the first coat soaks into the pores of the wood - follow the direction for re-coating.
When you bring the two pieces together, the bond will be instant and permanent. If alignment is an issue, place a sheet of waxed paper between the two parts so that they can be aligned, then carefully withdraw the paper and press the two surfaces together. I used the same stuff to veneer my kitchen cupboards over 25 years ago, and the bond is still solid.
I prefer LePage's Gelled Contact Cement or Dap/Weldwood Gelled Contact Cement - both are available only in quart cans, but it's useful for all sorts of household gluing jobs. The gelled glue is much less messy than liquid-type contact cements. I use a 1/4" stiff-bristled artist's brush to apply the glue - the brush can be cleaned in laquer thinner.
If you don't need a quart of the stuff, I've found Pliobond to be a good choice for a liquid contact cement. While it can be messy to use, usually stringiness as it's applied, it gives a strong and long-lasting bond. I had some older metal rolling stock from the '50s which had their Kadee K-type metal coupler boxes cemented to the wood underbodies, and the bond was still strong almost 50 years later.
All of the brands mentioned are solvent-based, so use the usual precautions and follow the instructions on the container regarding application and waiting times.
Wayne
When you bring the two pieces together, the bond will be instant and permanent. If alignment is an issue, place a sheet of waxed paper between the two parts so that they can be aligned, then carefully withdraw the paper and press the two surfaces together. I used the same stuff to veneer my kitchen cupboards over 25 years ago, and the bond is still solid.
I prefer LePage's Gelled Contact Cement or Dap/Weldwood Gelled Contact Cement - both are available only in quart cans, but it's useful for all sorts of household gluing jobs. The gelled glue is much less messy than liquid-type contact cements. I use a 1/4" stiff-bristled artist's brush to apply the glue - the brush can be cleaned in laquer thinner.
If you don't need a quart of the stuff, I've found Pliobond to be a good choice for a liquid contact cement. While it can be messy to use, usually stringiness as it's applied, it gives a strong and long-lasting bond. I had some older metal rolling stock from the '50s which had their Kadee K-type metal coupler boxes cemented to the wood underbodies, and the bond was still strong almost 50 years later.
All of the brands mentioned are solvent-based, so use the usual precautions and follow the instructions on the container regarding application and waiting times.
Wayne