04-06-2015, 11:34 AM
I'm assuming that you already have a plan in place for keeping the modules aligned vertically, such as adjustable legs or using shelf brackets for support.
Once the framework of the modules is built, set it up, clamping it at the connection points with C-clamps. Drill, at as close to 90° as possible, for the alignment dowels, using at least two at each joint. Glue one dowel in each mating end, then drill for the bolts which you'll use to hold things together.
Next, lay the track so that it spans the joint. I'm not a fan of gluing track in place, but that's your choice. However, where it approaches the end of each module, I'd suggest drilling several ties and using spikes to better secure it. Use a couple in each tie (Peco or Atlas have suitable ones). Before spiking them, though, decide on whether you want the joint at the extreme ends of each module or set back, with a connector piece to span the joint.
Personally, I'd opt for set-back - this keeps the permanent track back from the ends, and less likely to be damaged when the modules are being assembled or during storage or while being transported. If you don't mind a little clickety-clack as the trains pass over, you can use the cut-out track that's in place as described below.
First, decide on a length for this section - a couple of inches will do, but 5" or 6" might be better...this will allow for a little lateral adjustment, should it be necessary, and it will also move the track joints farther away from the module joint, further helping to disguise the latter. Before cutting the rails, apply ca to all but the end ties of the section to be removed, so that the rails cannot creep when the section is removed. Also, mark one end and the permanent end to which it's currently attached - this will ensure that it's always installed in the proper orientation. You can use a dab of paint on the adjacent ties or rail or drill a small hole through the side of one end of one rail and of the rail to which it's to be joined - this will be invisible except to someone who knows where to look.
You can use a razor saw or a cut-off disc to cut the rails. If you opt for the razor saw, take care to not allow them to move laterally should the saw teeth catch. I'd go with the cut-off disc, and if you work from the end of each module (stand beside it, since they're still connected, facing along its length, with your dominant hand nearest the module). Cut both rails at the pre-selected spot on the module which you're facing....the cut will, of necessity, be angled, with the ends of the rails on the fixed portion longer at their base. Next, walk around to the other side of the joined modules and perform the same operation, leaving the ends on this fixed portion longer at their base, too. (Stand beside module A to cut the rails on B, and beside module B to cut the rails on module A.)
Sorta like this:
_____module A_____________\ \_ connector__/ /_______module B___________
You'll need four rail joiners - depending on the brand you use, you may wish to shorten them somewhat. Use the cut-off disc for that, then slip them onto the rail ends. Once you've set-up the module in its semi-permanent location, aligned with the dowels and bolted together, apply a length of wide tape over the joint, preferably something waterproof enough to withstand application of scenic materials, then drop the connector section into place. Slide the shortened rail joiners into position and then solder them to all of the rails. You can then paint the rails, apply ballast and ground cover as you normally would do.
When it comes time to move, wet the area with "wet" water, and use a scraper to remove as much of the scenic materials as possible. Use a wire brush in your Dremel or otherwise scrape the paint from the soldered rail joiners and a short area of rail to one end of each joiner. Using a hot iron, touch the tip to both rails at each joint, in-turn, and, as soon as the solder melts, use a small screwdriver or the tip of your X-Acto blade to push the joiner off the joint and onto the pre-cleaned portion of the rail. Once all four joints have been done, lift out the connector section, remove the tape and separate the modules.
Wayne
Once the framework of the modules is built, set it up, clamping it at the connection points with C-clamps. Drill, at as close to 90° as possible, for the alignment dowels, using at least two at each joint. Glue one dowel in each mating end, then drill for the bolts which you'll use to hold things together.
Next, lay the track so that it spans the joint. I'm not a fan of gluing track in place, but that's your choice. However, where it approaches the end of each module, I'd suggest drilling several ties and using spikes to better secure it. Use a couple in each tie (Peco or Atlas have suitable ones). Before spiking them, though, decide on whether you want the joint at the extreme ends of each module or set back, with a connector piece to span the joint.
Personally, I'd opt for set-back - this keeps the permanent track back from the ends, and less likely to be damaged when the modules are being assembled or during storage or while being transported. If you don't mind a little clickety-clack as the trains pass over, you can use the cut-out track that's in place as described below.
First, decide on a length for this section - a couple of inches will do, but 5" or 6" might be better...this will allow for a little lateral adjustment, should it be necessary, and it will also move the track joints farther away from the module joint, further helping to disguise the latter. Before cutting the rails, apply ca to all but the end ties of the section to be removed, so that the rails cannot creep when the section is removed. Also, mark one end and the permanent end to which it's currently attached - this will ensure that it's always installed in the proper orientation. You can use a dab of paint on the adjacent ties or rail or drill a small hole through the side of one end of one rail and of the rail to which it's to be joined - this will be invisible except to someone who knows where to look.
You can use a razor saw or a cut-off disc to cut the rails. If you opt for the razor saw, take care to not allow them to move laterally should the saw teeth catch. I'd go with the cut-off disc, and if you work from the end of each module (stand beside it, since they're still connected, facing along its length, with your dominant hand nearest the module). Cut both rails at the pre-selected spot on the module which you're facing....the cut will, of necessity, be angled, with the ends of the rails on the fixed portion longer at their base. Next, walk around to the other side of the joined modules and perform the same operation, leaving the ends on this fixed portion longer at their base, too. (Stand beside module A to cut the rails on B, and beside module B to cut the rails on module A.)
Sorta like this:
_____module A_____________\ \_ connector__/ /_______module B___________
You'll need four rail joiners - depending on the brand you use, you may wish to shorten them somewhat. Use the cut-off disc for that, then slip them onto the rail ends. Once you've set-up the module in its semi-permanent location, aligned with the dowels and bolted together, apply a length of wide tape over the joint, preferably something waterproof enough to withstand application of scenic materials, then drop the connector section into place. Slide the shortened rail joiners into position and then solder them to all of the rails. You can then paint the rails, apply ballast and ground cover as you normally would do.
When it comes time to move, wet the area with "wet" water, and use a scraper to remove as much of the scenic materials as possible. Use a wire brush in your Dremel or otherwise scrape the paint from the soldered rail joiners and a short area of rail to one end of each joiner. Using a hot iron, touch the tip to both rails at each joint, in-turn, and, as soon as the solder melts, use a small screwdriver or the tip of your X-Acto blade to push the joiner off the joint and onto the pre-cleaned portion of the rail. Once all four joints have been done, lift out the connector section, remove the tape and separate the modules.
Wayne