doctorwayne's Get off yer duff Challenge (Part III)
#18
You may be right, Steve. I think that the slipperiness of the metal may have played a part in things, too, but I did manage to remove the most offensive areas where things went wrong. Another thing I learned was that the MEK was an effective decal setting solution even on plastic when applied quickly and sparingly, as that's how I treated the rivet decals on the styrene batten strip at the car's eaves and on the upper door track. I wouldn't, however, use it on regular lettering-type decals.
I'll Glosscote the car either Friday night or Saturday, and after it's cured for a day or two, apply the lettering. When that's all in place and fully dried, another Glosscote, then a final coat of either Dullcote or perhaps a very low-sheen semi-gloss, and just a little weathering...after all, it'll be a relatively new car in the operating era of my layout.
It's a rather tedious method of building a steel car, though, but I'll treat it as a learning experience and I don't think that the car will be too much of an embarrassment once it's done.

We'll see what I can learn with the next car, a NC&StL single sheathed Fowler boxcar. I have all of the material on-hand...actually more than I planned, as Special Shapes (in Chicago) had a minimum order of $25.00, and in my efforts to meet that, I went somewhat over the minimum. I was a little cheesed-off, though as I ordered Zed-bar and they sent me Zee-bar. It'll work okay on the Dixieland car, I guess, but may cause problems if I attempt to use it on a couple of home-road cars.

Wayne
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