Question re 6-wheeled trucks/bogies

[nkp_174]

I'm wondering what is most accurate, though. I suspect that these Athearn coaches are correctly designed (i.e. they originally had 6 wheels per truck on the real thing). If I were to remove one of the wheel-sets, I could at least "fake it" since they would still have the appearance of being 6-wheel trucks. However, maybe there were/are variations in real life. I might do some googling to check!

Thanks, Rob

As a general rule of thumb, the Athearn heavyweights are not very close to being accurate. Very few heavyweights were 70' long, 75'-85' was the norm. Those under 80' usually had 2-axle trucks...unless they were head end cars (which were usually shorter...sometimes 60'). The 2-axle trucks were NOT at all like the 2-axle trucks from Athearn (which are post-1939 trucks). Both the light and heavyweight Athearn cars were intended to be caricatures of real cars to minimize the overhang on tight curves. That is why they are noticeably shorter than the premium priced passenger cars from Branchline, Rapido, Walthers, and brass. Other manufacturers have offered 2-axle trucks which would be correct for heavyweight era cars.

If you like the look of 3-axle trucks, keep them and try removing the middle axle as suggested (my Athearn heavyweights still have their 3-axle trucks...I like them regardless as to their length). Most people don't know beans about passenger cars, and so they would never notice! Modelers have long accepted the equivalent to a UP Big Boy in place of an NYC hudson in passenger cars for many years, even while they demand year specific details on their locomotives and accurate freight cars. (please note that I am not directing this at members of the gauge...there are plenty of knowledgeable people here...far more knowledgeable than most people I run across at my LHS).

If you want a more accurate car, get a proper set of 2-axle trucks...but be aware that you'll probably have to adjust the bolster height either with a file or a washer.

What is the problem with the couplers? Is the trip pin snagging on stuff? If so, trim it off or adjust it. If the knuckle isn't closing, either the metal spring is missing or it had a plastic spring which is sprung. If the coupler head is off, perhaps either adding washers in between the trucks and the car or replacing the coupler with either an under or over shank variety.

Michael