MWaz Get off your duff challenge

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This is a hanger on project I've been working on for over a year now. I know I'm joining the challenge late but, hopefully it will be the push I need to get it back on the rails again. It is a Bowser H-9. At one time it was the first Bowser kit I ever bought some 30 years ago. I finally got in running about 5 years ago, but it met an unfortunate incident at my club's layout when it ended up on the floor, falling approximately 4 feet destroying the boiler and many of the detail pieces shot off all over the place. So, pretty much this is a total rebuild. The picture shown is with a new boiler I was able to turn up and some detail parts I've already added. The original H-9 had a brass frame, but I opted for a zamac frame on the rebuild because I discovered with a Bowser PRR L-1 build (actually I built 3) that the mikados with a solid frame ran a little quieter then with the open brass frame. Originally, the H-9 kit came with the typical DC-71 motor that I swapped out for a Helix Humper motor. With the new frame I installed a NWSL gearbox and motor.

[doctorwayne]

to the Challenge, Mark.

Wayne

[modelsof1900]

This will be a great and ambitious project. Wish you success!

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I had to file out the space in the frame where the main driver gear passed through to allow for the NWSL gearbox. When I prepare for paint I'll try to remember to get a picture of that. Also, the NWSL gearbox required the Bowser gear to be removed off the the axle and a NWSL gear to be pressed on to replace it.

In my original post when I joined the challenge, I didn't mention that I will be setting this H-9 up to operate with a DCC decoder.




In this photo I've added more details to the boiler, a lagged pipe that this particular H-9 had and I've started some of the handrails. Here is a photo of the H-9 I'm shooting for: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/prr540s.jpg">http://www.northeast.railfan.net/images/prr540s.jpg</a><!-- m -->

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Haven't had much time to do any updating lately. Been taking care of some home remodeling projects.

But was able to add a Kadee #5 coupler to the pilot of the H-9. With some other details

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Here I've add more detail to the smokebox area.


[URL=http://s1081.photobucket.com/user/bowser0227/media/image1_zpsc789b503.jpg.html]
Also, some cab details have been added.

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For some reason, unsure why, the replacement boiler did not sit level when I placed it on the frame. I manufactured a spacer out of styrene and installed it under the cab to make up the difference. Other cab details have also been added, ash pans, cab walk, handrails, etc. And on the boiler another lagged pipe from the steam dome to behind the train control box.

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Recently I've added clean out plugs to the cylinder chest and boiler.

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I think I've now caught up on all past photos and all uploads from here on out will be as I progress with this build. Next up was making a backplate for the cab of the H-9. Here is an example of one made by Bowser stamped with an "E" and was made for the E-6, H-9 boiler. It comes with a seated engineer & fireman, Bowser part #1-100612(I've also seen it referenced as 1-100611). Believe it or not, this has been one of the hardest Bowser parts that I've ever tracked down. One can find the backplates for the K-4 and L-1 quite commonly. But I've looked for one of these for years on eBay and just recently won one. As you can see it's not in the greatest of shape but was able to serve as a stencil to make one out of styrene.

Last picture is of the backplate roughed in place.

Later today plan on starting some plumbing details for under the running boards.

[doctorwayne]

This is coming along very nicely, Mark.

Wayne

[Tyson Rayles]

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thanks guys for the thumbs up and applause

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Moved on tonight with adding some of the plumbing on the fireman's side of the boiler. Here's a photo of some of my favorite wire bending tools. Especially the linemen's pliers.



Next are the pipe brackets, from Cal Scale 2 hole-part # 190-482, and 3 hole-part # 190-481. Other pipe bracket is a Bowser part (flat brass w/4 holes), I think that part is 1-90003.


I ended up changing the rod over to brass instead of the phosphorus bronze because it was easier to manipulate in tight spaces. But this is the basic shape it took before the install.


And here it is installed under the running boards.

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More progress was made last night and I was able to complete the piping under the running boards on the engineer's side.


I'm thinking of adding one more pipe bracket just to the right of the air tank. The pipe kinda droops in this location. Other then that, this side of the locomotive is basically complete. I'll add the headlight when I wire it up for DCC. I'll be moving on to the tender part of the build.

Here's a shot with locomotive lined up with her tender.


Shots of the damage to the tender when it made it's trip to the floor. Not to bad for a 4 foot drop.



I think I'm going to strip the paint on the tender so I can get the paint all one color again before weathering.



Here are are a few shots on how I made the H-9 operate with a decoder.






A long drawn out process led me to this configuration for the DCC installation. Part of which was making a mold of the original Bowser tender floor and casting one made of resin. That is what is seen in the above photos. But, I may change that set up and utilize a set of Bachmann tender trucks from their K-4 tender. That way the bolsters are plastic instead of metal like with the Bowser trucks. And go back to the Bowser tender floor. Haven't made a full decision about that, yet. But, I've seen some other modelers have been using a Kadee coupler centering spring as a wiper for tender pick ups and have been wanting to give that a try.

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Today, I was able to strip the paint off the tender. Here are the supplies and materials I used to accomplish that. Lacquer Thinner, brass wire brush, tub/tray for wash( tray came from our favorite Chinese take out place).


Prepping tender for paint removal. Scrapping off coal load and other detail parts have been removed.


Gave the tender body a bath in the lacquer thinner. Years ago when I painted this I used Pollyscale paint(I still miss that paint ) So paint removal should be quite easy.


After some wire brush work.


And now a basically cleaned tender.


Also, years ago when I put this H-9 together I scalloped out the front tender steps and removed the angled steps that come with these Bowser tenders. I installed a step that more resembles ones found on PRR freight tenders.





I do not recommend the lacquer thinner for plastic models. I have been using Scalecoat Wash Away paint remover for that, and have been happy with the results. These are two GP30's, one with paint removed and one that still needs a bath.