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lears2005 Wrote:Wow I cant wait to see more it is really looking good
Hear! Hear!
That's shaping up to be a great looking ISL.
Larry
Engineman
Summerset Ry
Make Safety your first thought, Not your last! Safety First!
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WoW..!! That's some turnout..!!
Shame it's going to get buried in "pavement"....
Gus (LC&P).
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Tetters, it was fun to build this turnout and even with those additional rails it was easier than I had expected. Only to do the frog was a bit tricky, but the wide radii of my turnout helped.
Lears2005, Larry, even now, four weeks after I started to build this layout, I am still convinced I found what I have been looking for for years … so the chances are high that this layout will make it a bit longer than my last attempts … well, at least three more weeks, because I’ll be on vacation and I won’t have a chance to tear it down .
Gus, it is a shame to hide this turnout, but getting nicely flowing track is not too bad either ...
As I had hoped, I managed to build the new street this weekend. I found out that a #11 scalpel is the perfect tool to clear out the flangeways.
Kurt
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Wow that looks smooooooth!
Ralph
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Great work Kurt! Love the flow of the track and the curved turnout.
Ed
"Friends don't let friends build Timesavers"
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I will echo above....SMooooooth....
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That looks so cool! That S-curve will look cool when its got trains running on it. What is the radius on those curves anyways (I saw that the switch was 40" and 30" radius)?
Not to get to off track here, but I think it is an interesting trend to see all these "industrial park" layouts. When I look at my old track planning and operations books, they almost always are about the "train coming into a small town and doing local switching, then leaving". Now, entire layouts take place within the confines of a single warehouse/factory complex. Certainly not complaining, that is an awesome way to pack realism into a small space, but its definitely interesting to see the hobby evolve.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.
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Thanks, guys.
GEC, I don’t know the exact radius of those curves, but they must be in the range of 40", because they look like the curved turnout.
Here are two pics from the new street after I gave it the fist coat of paint yesterday. I placed some mock-ups along the street, but I still have to find the right structures.
This is my last post for this month, because we are heading for the south of France tomorrow morning . No modeling, but some of the most beatiful country roads and mountain passes for cycling for me … not bad, either .
Kurt
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cnw1961 Wrote:Greg, it is a shame ,but the turnout will be completely buried in plaster. :o
Steve, Ed, I agree the revised plan looks better. Don’t know why I did not do it this way right away.
SSWUP, the brand of plaster I am using is Moltofill. I like using it, because it takes an hour before it starts setting, so you are in no hurry when you are working with it.
In dire need of some inspiration, thought I'd drop by and see how my ol' friend Kurt was getting along.
And boy, was it worth it!! Suddenly and miraculously I'm reinspired. The switch is really top drawer stuff and love the amendment to the plan!!
Currently building a 4mm scale point manufactured by a UK company called C&L finescale. Just a case of glueing rail chairs to ties while keeping everything in gauge with a pair of roller gauges. The crossings and switches come preformed which reduces the possibility of error, but also takes the fun out of things; seeing this just makes me want to get down and dirty again with file and solder!!!! Don't think I could attempt something as demanding as this though.
Anyway, glad to see you're still enjoying your modelling; please keep spoiling us
Best wishes,
Jonte
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Beautiful track work. I love the nice flowing lines. I'm doubly impressed by street track work, which you seemingly pull off effortlessly Kurt.
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Jonte, it was not very difficult to build this turnout, the additional rails did not make it more difficult, it just took a little longer.
Tetters, building street trackage using plaster is quite easy – even I can do it though I really dislike working with plaster . This method is much easier and the results look better than using cardboard and sanding paper as I did before.
After having a break because of our vacation, I started to do some modeling again yesterday. I though it was high time to get my first LATR engine ready. Inspired by the ATSF zebra striped switchers and the SP tiger stripe paint scheme, I decided to go for a classic paint scheme: black with yellow stripes. I did not have any suitable decals at hand, so I had to paint the stripes and the lettering. it took hours to apply all the masking tape. Here is a first pic of the freshly painted engine. Still a long way to go to get it finished, but I am glad that painting the shell did not end in a desaster .
Kurt
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Hand painted stripes and lettering??!!! WOW, that turned out really sharp!
Ralph
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Did you do the lettering (and stripes) by reverse masking? I mean yellow base, masking the letters, black layer and then removing the masking to get the yellow letters from the base coat?
Anyhow, the result looks very good!
Reinhard
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That will be one sweet looking MP15DC when finish.
Larry
Engineman
Summerset Ry
Make Safety your first thought, Not your last! Safety First!
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The loco looks great, Kurt. That's my preferred method of applying stripes and lettering, too, although I'm not averse to using decals or dry transfers if they're available. If you can find dry transfers in the size and font required, they can be used as "masks" for creating painted-on lettering - the colour of the transfer is unimportant. Be sure to not burnish the dry transfers when used for this purpose. Simply paint the model in the colour you wish the lettering to be, mask (tape and dry transfers), paint, then remove the masking. The dry transfer masks can be lifted off using masking tape.
Wayne
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