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I agree that Atlas joiners are oversized (which is why they go on easy) but if you don't push them to the outside before soldering they can derail older cars with the larger flanges. I don't need an Optivisor but I do need to wear my glasses when installing them.
Mike
Sent from my pocket calculator using two tin cans and a string
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Quote:Maybe it's time for an Opti-Visor?
Actually, that's not a bad idea. :geek:
BR60103;
Joiners, track or both?
Quote:I agree that Atlas joiners are oversized (which is why they go on easy)
Right now, I'll go with ease over looks.
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videobruce Wrote:"Maybe it's time for an Opti-Visor?" Actually, that's not a bad idea. :geek:
Ive been using a 5X since 1968. Still is one of the best tool investments I've ever made !! Just recently, picked up a second one, so I have one at my work table, and the old one down in the basement.
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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W/O going too far OT, after reading a little about these on Amazon, my 1st concern is the lack of lighting on this since it would be used away from a 'bench' with additional lighting.
2nd would be the 8" focal distance which seems to close for where I would be using it (again, NOT while sitting at a work station).
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videobruce Wrote:BR60103;
Joiners, track or both? I meant the joiners, but I didn't like their N gauge track 40 years ago.
I use the Opti-visor and agree the focal length is tight. Don't use it for soldering if you have a big nose.
I think there is an add-on lighting unit.
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
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Opti-Visors are available with several different focal lengths. You can check it out HERE.
Wayne
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Quote:I didn't like their N gauge track 40 years ago.
I beleive things have changed since then.
Quote:Opti-Visors are available with several different focal lengths.
I see that, but the magnification amount decreases with distance. Robbing peter to pay Paul. Defeats the purpose.
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What was I thinking ! ? Yes, for layout work, the Optivisor isn't the best alternative. I use a good pair of reading glasses for most of my layout building, and detailing. These can also be found in different magnifying strengths, and I have several pairs of these around the house, each for a specific purpose. One stays at the computer for reading the screen, one at my favorite chair for reading books, magazines, etc., and one somewhere on the layout.
no, I don't have a pair that are used to find the other pairs.
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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I wear prescription glasses. My focus is fine, the problem is their wimpy, overpriced joiners.
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Sumpter250 Wrote:What was I thinking ! ? Yes, for layout work, the Optivisor isn't the best alternative. I use a good pair of reading glasses for most of my layout building, and detailing. These can also be found in different magnifying strengths, and I have several pairs of these around the house, each for a specific purpose. One stays at the computer for reading the screen, one at my favorite chair for reading books, magazines, etc., and one somewhere on the layout.
no, I don't have a pair that are used to find the other pairs.
Great minds think alike....This is the process I follow as well....
Gus (LC&P).
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One small word of warning about Peco N/S track and Peco rail-joiners - Caulk contains acetic acid, and it DOESN'T like Peco rai;joiners - they grow green corrosion very quickly -I have recently laid some track - decided the idea didn't work as I wanted, and hauled it up again, all within a week - and that's how I know!
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More good news. The rail itself, the rail joiners or both.
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videobruce Wrote:More good news. The rail itself, the rail joiners or both.
Hard to tell, but it almost looks as though it has spread up the side of the rail - and when the track has been lifted the remailing rubbery caulk is a POB* to remove - I will NOT be using it again, ever!
Jack
* = Pigs Orphan Bitch
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videobruce Wrote:....my 1st concern is the lack of lighting on this since it would be used away from a 'bench' with additional lighting.....
If lighting is an issue, any type of small table- or desk lamp can be placed on the layout near where you're working. If there's scenery or other stuff in the way, a "trouble" light hung from the ceiling or otherwise propped-up may be useful. However, if the lighting is really poor, perhaps that's a problem that will continue to hamper your enjoyment of the layout even after the track issues have been dealt with.
Wayne
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I may be late to the party but this is MY method for joining track sections.These are simply suggestions from me to you.
first remove several ties from the ends of both pieces to be joined
second cut the rail to length.
third if you have used rail nippers you will most likely feel a burr on the bottom of the rail,holding both track and file level remove this burr.
fourth on the top of the bottom web file the ends to a downward angle (does not need to be much just enough to make it easier to slide the rail joiner on,you may find it easier to put the joiner on if you file a slight angle on each lower corner.It may also help to file the web (verticle part of the rail between base and railhead) to a shallow V.This will make it easier to slide the joiner on.
Now lay the track where you want it and replace the ties.Peco turnouts have special ties at the ends that are modified so that the joiners slide on without any tie removal.Peco used to sell these ties seperately though I don't know if they still do.
If you are soldering lengths of flex track together to make longer pieces make sure the you solder the sliding rails together.Also I reccomend that you always put the sliding rail on the inside of curves.
When I started to type this I did not plan for it being this long. :mrgreen:
Johnathan (Catt) Edwards
"The Ol Furrball"
"I'm old school,I still believe in respect"
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