Portable test track?
#1
I'm planning to make a portable test track. I'll be just using straight tracks, perhaps 2 or 3 9 inchers. I'm a bit clueless on how to power the track. Will an ordinary 9V battery suffice?
http://www.balcos.net
Michael Balcos
Hell-bent model railroader in the Philippines Smile
Reply
#2
The test track at the club is more or less what you describe, although there is a rerailer section in the middle to make it easier to get stuff on the track. It also includes:
  • a bumper at one end, and a couple height gauge at the other
  • a "ruler" marked with the NMRA suggested weights for HO scale
  • an NMRA wheel gauge attached by a string

I realize that this will not directly answer your question, but we use DCC at the club, so the track is wired through a DPDT switch to plug into a Digitrax Zephyr. The switch enables us to flip back and forth between programming track and mainline programming without moving the loco.

I would think that a 9V battery would provide sufficient power for DC-only locos, although those with sound, constant lighting, or other features may draw enough current to drain the battery fairly quickly. The other thing to consider is how will you regulate the speed? Most DC locos approach their top speed at 9V, and you would not want the loco to shoot off the end of the track...! Eek I guess I am wondering why you would not use a standard powerpack with a DC test track? :?:

Hope that helps.

Andrew
Reply
#3
A 9v. battery might be able to light the bulb in a loco, and maybe make the loco crawl a few inches. If you're looking to test locos, your best bet would be to find a cheap power pack, like the ones in toy train sets.....And get the connector track as well so you don't have to "fiddle" with the wiring.
Gus (LC&P).
Reply
#4
Thanks for your suggestions. Smile Yes, I'll only test DC engines. I could use a small 12V SLA battery instead. As for the power pack, I can make one using variable voltage regulator ICs (I use one that can handle 1 amp of current well). I'll post the schematics when I get some free time. You guys might find it interesting to know how easy it is to make a simple and inexpensive DC power pack. Wink
http://www.balcos.net
Michael Balcos
Hell-bent model railroader in the Philippines Smile
Reply
#5
Here's a site for all sorts of model train electronics....I've built a couple of the "basic" throttles.

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/#Throttles">http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/#Throttles</a><!-- m -->

I used to use a small 12v lead-acid battery for use on model plane motor starters. I'm sure there are still available out there....
Gus (LC&P).
Reply
#6
A 9V battery should do for most locos; this would be a good use for all those batteries we pull out of the smoke detectors 2x a year that still have lots of life yet. ( a 9V battery is handy if you need to check a loco where no regular power pack is available e.g. garage sales). If it won't run a 9V it needs a lot more work.
I haven't made a test track, but I think a yard of flex would be a reasonable start. The Kadee coupler height gauge needs to be isolated (they say there is a new one that's alreda insulated) by cutting a gap in one rail. Other end needs a bumper and/or a rerailer.
A set of rollers (when you're feeling flush).
Feeders off to a pair of screws for alligator clips, to terminal strip.
Ammeter and voltmeter?
David
Moderato ma non troppo
Perth & Exeter Railway Company
Esquesing & Chinguacousy Radial Railway
In model railroading, there are between six and two hundred ways of performing a given task.
Most modellers can get two of them to work.
Reply
#7
A single 9 volt battery may drain too quickly, Try to wire 3 of them in parallel + to +, - to - then to the track . That will give you more amperage with the same voltage. Do not wire them + to -then to the track that will increase the voltage above 12 volts.
I almost forgot about speed control and direction. There you will need a double pole double through switch and a potememator or rheostat wired in between the batteries and track.
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
Reply
#8
Plug it it to your cigarette lighter socket.
Just don't run down your Jeep battery.... Misngth
(do they have lighters?)

I have to ask... why do you need to test where there is no power available?
Cid
Reply
#9
If you look at old model railroader magazines from the 40s and 50s, there is much discussion of powering HO layouts using car batteries. I am assuming the reasoning back then was that rectifying house AC to DC was a bit trickier without diodes.
--
Kevin
Check out my Shapeways creations!
3-d printed items in HO/HOn3 and more!
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s-model-train-detail-parts">https://www.shapeways.com/shops/kevin-s ... tail-parts</a><!-- m -->
Reply
#10
Thanks, everyone. Smile I find the 9V batteries in parallel suggestion interesting. I'd like to have a battery powered portable test track so that I could test engines in public places where I could meet up with a buyer. I'm selling some model railroad stuff, just to share the hobby in my locality.
http://www.balcos.net
Michael Balcos
Hell-bent model railroader in the Philippines Smile
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)