How do you modelers that use Kadee coulpers deal with the trip pin?
I bought a couple of packs of the #158 scale couplers to experiment with. I am in the process of weathering them and will be using some sort of pick for uncoupling.
Given the fact that I will not be using any magnets to uncouple the cars,I am thinking or cutting off the trip pin and replacing it with air hoses made by Cal-scale which get attached to the side of coupler pocket.
How do you handle this? Your input is appreciated.
Bob
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Hi Bob,
I have friends who are detail their rolling stock to "semi-scale" standards, and they do as you suggest - simply cut off the gladhand/airhose and replace with a proper detail part. Uncoupling is then achieved with the help of a bamboo skewer. small flat screwdriver, or a fancy metal spike that micro-mart sells as an uncoupler (looks a lot like a bamboo skewer
).
Andrew
Thanks Andrew.That answers my question.That was the direction I was heading in. The air hoses by Cal-Scale look nice and are not expensive and come in plastic or brass.
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HI Bob.
I have thought about cutting the wire off, but decided to look to the future. What if I build a layout someday where I need the magnets, or technology gets to the point where you can have reliable remote uncoupling? I would rather keep the wire on there and ignore it, then have to go to the expense and hassle of having to change all the couplers someday. Redundant I know, but I worry about stuff like that. :cry:
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I clip form my HOn3 rolling stock. For my standard gauge cars, I have not clipped any yet, but I probably will as i get around to it. The skewers work remarkably well.
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Loren-I guess that is your choice.As for me in this case,I don't worry about the "what if". My layout is small,the couplers inexpensive,so I don't worry about it.
Kevin-I will have the couplers install by tomorrow(I hope)minus the trip pins.This is the time to see how everything works and to practice uncoupling.I only bought 4 pair for now. Just got done weathering them.
Bob
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When I begin building my layout I am going to go through all of my rolling stock, one car at a time, before I place it in service on the layout. Besides coupler height, one of the things I am going to do is clip the trip pins. The reason is I like plow pilots on diesel locomotives, and have noticed that some cars with trip pins and locomotives with plows just will not couple together. I also don't like the idea of a trip pin catching a rail in a turnout or crossing and causing a derailment from the upper level. The sound of a GP7 hitting the floor from 57" up is not one I care to know.
Dave
-Dave
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I cut them off also. Usuall the ones that give me trouble.
I use a 20 penny nail, or the good ol' 0-5-0 fo uncoupling.
Rix does sell an uncoupling tool. In therory,I don't see why it won't work with clipped trip pins.
Good experiment to try.
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eightyeightfan1 Wrote:Rix does sell an uncoupling tool. In therory,I don't see why it won't work with clipped trip pins.
Good experiment to try.
The Rix tool is magnetic, therefore requiring the trip pins to be in place.
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I don't think that the residual trip pin left in the coupler after amputation
is enough for the tool to act on.
Andrew
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I leave them on. On Lostock Junction, where I operate, a lot of the tracks are an uncomfortable reach for skewers so we have magnets.
Also, if you have diaphragms or corridor connections you can't always get to the top and it's handy to be able to grab the trip pin from the side.
I will admit to having a number of the original Kadee K series (mechanical) couplers that have lost their pins.
David
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BR60103 Wrote:Also, if you have diaphragms or corridor connections you can't always get to the top and it's handy to be able to grab the trip pin from the side.
I will admit to having a number of the original Kadee K series (mechanical) couplers that have lost their pins.
Yeah, cars with diaphrams are difficult to uncouple manually, even by lifting the cars off the track.
As for those older Kadees, I much preferred their appearance, as the uncoupling pin was less obtrusive than that of the magnetic version. I still have some, minus the pins, on some of my MoW equipment:
![[Image: Foe-toesfromfirstcd098.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/MofW%20equipment/Foe-toesfromfirstcd098.jpg)
![[Image: Foe-toesfromfirstcd094.jpg]](http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b399/doctorwayne/MofW%20equipment/Foe-toesfromfirstcd094.jpg)
Wayne
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Kaddee also sells a small plastic uncoupling pick that works well. The cross section of the end is shaped kind of like a miniature butterfly bandage. It just slips between the jaws and then a twist opens the couplers.
Thanks again for the replies. If all goes as planned I hope to have the couplers installed in a day or so,then I run some cars and hopefully with no problems. If all goes OK,then I will get the rest of the couplers.
Bob
