Redetailing a Athearn USRA mikado into a PRR L2s
#1
** Redetailing of a Athearn USRA Mikado into a Pennsy L2s**

**This is going to be a ongoing kitbashing project. It starts today.
Athearn a few years ago released a USRA Mikado 2-8-2. I have a undecorated version G9001. I purchased it with the idea to make it a Pennsylvania railroad L2. The Pennsylvannia had 5 of these. For Pennsy that is just enough for testing purposes. I don't think they were to inpressed with them, but they didn't get rid of them. In 1947 4 were still their
** The only change from the USRA prototype was a high front headlight and the PRR style marker lights. It seams Alco the builder had no trouble makeing them this way. All the photos I've seen show them with this Pennsy change. BLI release is stock USRA. Athearns PRR 2-8-2 has the correct high headlight but not the right marker lights. My undec version has the center mounted headlight.
** Now what do I do. Do I also make the basic USRA loco by just appling the hand rails stock marker lights, whistle, and bell making the Ahtearn, BWI version of this locomotive. Lets look at the loco as it comes out of the box.

   

** Photo 1: The locomotive. When compairing it to photos, the gererator needs to move up to foward of the somke stack. The bracket at the smoke box door top is for the bell. It doesn't go here. The bell mounts on top the boiler between the sand and steam domes. The headlight need to move from it's center on the smoke box door to the door top where the bell bracket is. Maybe this bracket can be used in some way to hold the relocated headlight. The front marker lights are stock USRA lights, they are in the wrong location and need to be replaced. New Pennsy style lights need to be aquired and relocated down to the top of the front pilot . A round number board need to be aquired and placed in the center of the smoke box door. That is basicly it for the locomotive changes. The hand rails and whistle still need to be installed as per Athearn.

   

** Phot 2 : The Tender rear detail. The two holes for the marker light on the tender rear are like the two holes on the smoke box front. They present a problum,and need to be filled somehow. The Athearn ladder can be installed. New Pennsy style marker lights need to be aquired with a Pyile tender headlight. These need to to installed on the tender's top floor along the rear edge. The marker lights in the corrners, and the reverseing headlight close to center I think. I have no real photo showing the exact location. So as long as a photo doesn't exist, center sounds good for now.
** I'll contact Athearn first to see if the other boiler front is aviable.
** Bowser made the marker lights, rear tender headlight and number board. in their catalog they are the same for all their tenders and loco pilots. If I am to redo this loco these must be purchased. Now it is time to check with a hobby shop or Bowser.
Bowser parts :
Marker Lights 1 pr # 7500 ( I need two pairs )
Headlight # 90042 ( same light used for the tender. I need two )
Headlight Bracket # 90041 ( Maybe I can get the light with the bracket )
Other parts possiably needed ;
Generator # 32119
Bell # 90030
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#2
An easy way to plug holes, either round or square ones, in plastic is to use a plastic plug that is of the same shape but slightly over-size. Use a suitably-sized brush to apply solvent cement (I use lacquer thinner) to both the inside wall(s) of the hole and the outside surfaces of the plug. Wait a few seconds while it softens the plastic somewhat, then force the plug into place. When the plug will no longer advance into the hole, set the whole works aside, preferably overnight, to harden. There will be some of the softened plastic squished out around the hole, (hardened, of course) but a #17 chisel blade in your X-Acto will remove it easily, along with the protruding end of the plug. Once smoothed and painted, the plug will be invisible. If you get impatient and try to smooth the plugged area before the plastic has re-hardened, you'll make a mess that will be difficult to hide. Wink Misngth
For "plug" material, I like to use a suitably-sized piece of Evergreen styrene strip or rod, as I always have a range of sizes on hand. If you find yourself short of such material, a piece of plastic sprue can be shaped with a knife or file to form a suitable plug.

For detail parts, Cal-Scale, a division of Bowser, offers detail set 190-2001, which is a PRR modern front end kit. Included are a generator, a pair of Pennsy-style markers/class lights, a headlight with a tapered back end, along with a mounting bracket, a keystone-shaped number plate for the smokebox front, and a large platform similar to those used above the pilot-mounted air tanks on the Hippos.

Cary, another division of Bowser, offers PRR marker lights, part 13-106, and both Cal-Scale and Cary have various styles of bells and generators available.

Wayne
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#3
TopTrain....I'll be following this thread closely as I've got a Mike kit (Tyco..by way of Mantua) and I'll be picking up some pointers as you go along....Right off the top, I see I've got a lot of piping to pick up.... Goldth Where does it all come from/go to...?

Good luck with this project...and post LOTS of photos.... Thumbsup
Gus (LC&P).
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#4
Steamtrains Wrote:TopTrain....I'll be following this thread closely as I've got a Mike kit (Tyco..by way of Mantua) and I'll be picking up some pointers as you go along....Right off the top, I see I've got a lot of piping to pick up.... Goldth Where does it all come from/go to...?

Good luck with this project...and post LOTS of photos.... Thumbsup

Hi: Your mantua is a complete kit. The athearn is 95% together with alot of detail. I'm just taking a standard USRA Mike and doing the Pennsy modifications, which aren't many. You have to put together the whole thing then detail it. Good luck.
frank
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#5
You may want to correct the weight distribution problem that the Athearn mike has, it balances between the third and fourth drivers, and should be between the second and third. There has been a thread on doing this, and I may be mistaken but I thought Dr. Wayne posted it.
The moving of the balance point, greatly improves the tractive effort of the model.
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#6
Pete is correct - even if you don't bother to add any weight, correcting the balance point will improve a loco's pulling ability. Here's a LINK

Wayne
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#7
As the locomotive is, Athearn has attempted to ballance the locomotives weight on the drivers with the use of the unique spring tension that is applied the the trailing truck. This holds up the cab area, and if properly adjusted, centers most of the weight on the drivers. Athearn has relied on a steel springs tension to do this. This is not a good thing. To much tension will cause the locomotive to bounce. To little will remove weight from the drive axels lessaing traction, and tipping the loco to the rear. A spring as it ages with a constant weight on it will have it's tension decrease. This attempt to ballance a out of ballance locomotive with the use of a spring isn't a good one. All that i can hope for is a locomotive that has enough traction that it can pull at least a 7 or 8 car train, and stay on the rails. I know I will see what happens.
frank
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#8
I am still stumbling along with this project. Photos show marker lights on pilot and tender were standard pennsy type. Also the headlight and tender light were of the same type, and a standard Pyle headlight. I found a boiler front made of plastic. A Selly round number board. 4 Bachmann pennsy marker lights of the proper style. I have the 2 brass Pyle headlights and one bracket for mounting to the boiler front. The tender light needs no bracket. I have 3 metal handrail slanchions and a curved piece of handrail. I have a nice brass bell. The generator aft on the boiler will be moved up and the hole pluged. The two holes in the tender rear will be pluged. I have two seated people for the cab. I'll paint them. I can't match the gunmetal gray boiler front and all the photos show it to be black, so I will repaint it black and make it scrufte.
A lot of this stuf is done now and I am lettering the tender and numbering the cab. # 9629 will be it's number. The 5 Pennsy were 9627 to 9631. It is all coming together now.
frank
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#9
Here is the Pennsylvania Rail road L2s, USRA light Mikado 2-8-2.

right side view.

   

Front end.

   

Tender rear.

   
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#10
Nice work, Frank. Thumbsup Thumbsup I like the colour that you used on the smokebox, and those Pennsy-style markers are a nice touch, too. Goldth

Wayne
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#11
Here are three more photos to go with the three previous ones.

   

   

   
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#12
That's one gorgeous engine...!!! Thumbsup
Gus (LC&P).
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#13
WOW knuckle couplers and not X2F's Thumbsup Did you have a change of heart. Does this mean that my source for free discarded couplers is going away...-o-no- what will I do Nope
 My other car is a locomotive, ARHS restoration crew  
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#14
Stephen ( E-paw ), don't Get to carried away with the moment. When I put that loco together I used what came with it in the box. Either a universal coupler will to mounted, or a X2F. KD styles are to unreliable when you don't use the uncoupling feature.
frank
PS here is a letter I for your post. You proably ran out of them. Or were you afraid of misspelling it. " POP "
" It's a Heck of a Day " !!!!
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#15
Looks Great. Cheers
Matt
I can smell a steam post ten blocks away and when I do clear the tracks because the steam express will be hi ballin through
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