Attaching track to foamboard?

[RobertInOntario]

As some of you may know, I've been working on a small HO layout that is made from green insulation foam board.

So far, I've been attaching the track to the foam using the typical pins or spikes. Of course, these don't attach that well into the foam so the spikes are only temporarily holding the track down.

What's the best type of glue to use for attaching track to the foam -- is white glue good enough or is there something better?

I guess I could just start ballasting and then the glue and ballast would hold the track down.

Thanks,
Rob

[MasonJar]

Are you using cork (or other) roadbed?

In either case, a thin layer of caulking is all you need. White glue will not really hold, and may give out when you ballast.

Use a latex caulk (or any paintable kind) and only enough to hold. Spread it with a putty knife and if it oozes up through the ties when you press the track down, there's too much.

Andrew

[TrainNut]

On my layout, in N scale I glue the cork directly to the foam or WS risers and inclines with Elmers glue. After that has dried, I push the track nails down through the pre drilled holes in the ties (light pressure only with a nailset... no hammer is needed). That's it. I've found this more than sufficient to hold my track in place and have never had a problem with it working loose... even after cleaning track with the rubber cleaning stone thingy. No messy caulking or anything else needed to hold the track down.
Ballast -
On the few portions of track that I did have the chance to ballast, that guaranteed against any chance of the track every coming back up.
On the majority of track that I never had the chance to ballast, when I tore the layout up, all of the old track came right up cleanly and neatly and I am now reusing 95% of it on my new layout.

[RobertInOntario]

Are you using cork (or other) roadbed?
In either case, a thin layer of caulking is all you need. White glue will not really hold, and may give out when you ballast.
Use a latex caulk (or any paintable kind) and only enough to hold. Spread it with a putty knife and if it oozes up through the ties when you press the track down, there's too much.
Andrew

Thanks, Andrew. I'll try this.

BTW, I'm not using any roadbed this time! I'm just tacking the track to the foam and hoping I can simulate enough of the roadbed through my ballasting. While this is not as realistic looking, it does nicely simplify the layout and makes easier to adjust the track/layout.

Rob

[RobertInOntario]

On my layout, in N scale I glue the cork directly to the foam or WS risers and inclines with Elmers glue. After that has dried, I push the track nails down through the pre drilled holes in the ties (light pressure only with a nailset... no hammer is needed). That's it. I've found this more than sufficient to hold my track in place and have never had a problem with it working loose... even after cleaning track with the rubber cleaning stone thingy. No messy caulking or anything else needed to hold the track down.
Ballast -
On the few portions of track that I did have the chance to ballast, that guaranteed against any chance of the track every coming back up.
On the majority of track that I never had the chance to ballast, when I tore the layout up, all of the old track came right up cleanly and neatly and I am now reusing 95% of it on my new layout.

Thanks, I'll consider that as well. But aren't there different kinds of Elmer's glue and does it take long to dry?

Cheers, Rob

[viperman]

I used Liquid Nail caulk to hold the cork roadbed down to the foam base. Used some nails in the pre-drilled holes of the ties, just as train nut said

[TrainNut]

But aren't there different kinds of Elmer's glue and does it take long to dry?

There are but I use the normal stuff sold at the grocery store in the school supplies section. I glue all my cork in the evening and then go to bed. By morning, it's good to go.

[RobertInOntario]

But aren't there different kinds of Elmer's glue and does it take long to dry?

There are but I use the normal stuff sold at the grocery store in the school supplies section. I glue all my cork in the evening and then go to bed. By morning, it's good to go.

Thanks -- I'll experiment with both options then (Elmer's Glue and Caulking). Rob

[viperman]

Now that I think about it, I ran out of Liquid Nails and did use Elmer's white glue to finish up and have had no problems with it

[nachoman]

what kind of track are you using, sectional or flex? For sectional track, I would second he latex caulk. For flextrack, I would want something that sets faster - or perhaps stick with double sided tape. You also may want to look at some of the track that has the roadbed attached.

[RobertInOntario]

what kind of track are you using, sectional or flex? For sectional track, I would second he latex caulk. For flextrack, I would want something that sets faster - or perhaps stick with double sided tape. You also may want to look at some of the track that has the roadbed attached.

Good question. For most of the layout, I"m using sectional track except for one difficult curve (approx. 17.5"R) where I resorted to using some Atlas flex track. It's actually the flex track section that I'm most concerned about. So far, the pins/spikes are doing a good job holding it in place but not sure for how long.

Thanks,
Rob

[MasonJar]

If you go with the caulking approach, you will need to hold the track in place for a few hours (or overnight) while the caulking cures.

Andrew

[RobertInOntario]

If you go with the caulking approach, you will need to hold the track in place for a few hours (or overnight) while the caulking cures.

Andrew

Thanks, Andrew. Would think I could use track spikes or weights to hold it in place?

Cheers, Rob

[MasonJar]

I would use heavy weights (soup cans on their sides are good), or those long "T" type pins (or both ). Regular track spikes/nails are not long enough to get any real grip in the foam. This is especially problematic where the flex track will want to spring back instead of staying in a tight curve.

Andrew

[MountainMan]

On my layout, in N scale I glue the cork directly to the foam or WS risers and inclines with Elmers glue. After that has dried, I push the track nails down through the pre drilled holes in the ties (light pressure only with a nailset... no hammer is needed). That's it. I've found this more than sufficient to hold my track in place and have never had a problem with it working loose... even after cleaning track with the rubber cleaning stone thingy. No messy caulking or anything else needed to hold the track down.
Ballast -
On the few portions of track that I did have the chance to ballast, that guaranteed against any chance of the track every coming back up.
On the majority of track that I never had the chance to ballast, when I tore the layout up, all of the old track came right up cleanly and neatly and I am now reusing 95% of it on my new layout.

Good tips!

We all know our layout is "forever", but we also know that we're going to want to change something!