Streets how do you make em?

[Gary S]

Gotta give credit where credit is due. I got the idea from Steve, and I think he got it from Kurt.

[WT fan]

I've made my streets from plaster, gypsum. Here's my HowTo.



Wolfgang

[Gary S]

WT, very informative website you have. Lot's of good stuff to browse through and get ideas. Thanks for posting.

[NJ Devils Fan]

For paved city streets, in HO Scale, I've used regular roofing shingles. If you flip them over, the backs have a smooth, black, weathered appearence. When a structure is placed on a shingle, it gives a "curb appearence". It looks as though all buildings have a curb. Traffic lanes and markings can easily be applied with different color tape. Street signs and lamp posts can easily be installed as well by pre-drilling a hole and inserting them. Shingles can be easily cut with a utility knife and shaped to fit any area. Heck, if your really into details, it's easy to "cut in" a pot hole or two. (What's a street without a pothole anyway?)Because of the length of 1 shingle, you can cover a lot of area quickly. A couple of well placed "roadbed" nails easily holds the shingle in place.

As for using a shingle for a grade crossing, I haven't tried that yet. I have always used putty for crossings. For that, I have always removed (yes removed) the ties that will be "paved over". I use a small putty knife to spread the putty into the area. Once shaped, I roll a spare truck through the putty before it dries, to create the flangeways. Once dried, I sand it smoth and spray paint the area to desired color. I've never had a problem with the track coming "out of guage". Once the putty sets, it holds everything in place from the bottom up.

I'm sure the shingle could work in the same way - by removing the ties in the crossing. If you bring the shingle up to the rails on both sides of the crossing, it's almost flush. (in HO) All that would be required is to cut ut the center piece leaving enough room for the flanges.

I'll have to try this and let you know how it goes...Back to the drawing board.

[NJ Devils Fan]

One more "quick idea". Before you flip those shingles over to make your streets, take a wire brush to the "grit side" of the shingle, to get some real looking coal. Those black shingles can give you some realistic, and cheap, looking coal. Using some other color shingles as well, can give you some great looking "stone, rock or other ground cover material. Maybe even some cheap ballast? I've collected some "used" shingles from a roofer who was re-doing a roof at a neighbors house. The cost? "Take all you want", was the answer.

Take a wire brush and scour the shingle over a clear "zip-lock" plastic bag (for storage). This "grit" will be easily stored for use later on. You can even mix the colors to create your own taste.

Try it, it works!

[Mr Fixit]

A new file works well for cleaning up the edge of styrene.

The reason I say new is because you dont want the file to contain metal or aluminium shavings, so mark the file[s] as being only for plastics. The file I use at work for cutting back iron on melamine edge tape has the tang end flattened out into the shape of a handle which makes it easy and comfortable to use and means you can run the entire file flat along the material.
It also has double cut on one side and single cut on the other, with one edge having cutting teeth and one edge plain, so plenty of flexibility. The brand I use is Nicholson, but any quality brand will do. The flattened tang files are not that common so check out good hardware or tool shops. It will probably cost about the same as a good railcar, but as with everything you get what you pay for.

A flie card which is like a small metal brush is very useful for cleaning out the file teeth without having to use any solvents.

I was also looking at a pizza cutter at the shops the other day and wondering how it would go on styrene.

Another tool to possibly consider would be a paper cutter or guillotene which could make measuring and marking easier.

Mark

[jhoff310]

On the layout I just tore down a few months ago (time for a rebuild) I used Ceramic tile grout. I model HO and it spreads easy,comes in a variety of natural colors, and the texture looks great. I had some left over from a tile job in the house and decided to try it. If I remember correctly, I think it runs around $20 for a gallon bucket. Can also be used to model fine piles of stone. Takes about 24 hours to dry completely

Jeff

[Herc Driver]

I found it easy to use the large styrene signs like the "Garage Sale" or "For Sale" kinds you find at most home supply stores. For a small price you get a good sturdy sheet of styrene that cuts easily and accepts spray paint well. I used them for my roads around my layout with good results. I normally just spray them with a basic grey primer color and add weathering using chalks. Placing some tape under the roadway gives slight bumps and grade changes to the roads.