Shelf Layout Shelving/Supports
#1
I went into Lowes this even to look into getting a new shelving system for my N scale Layout im going to be building. I do not want to use BIG heavy duty brackets for this layout, i want something that looks nicer and does not leave large 1/4" holes in the walls LOL

I remember seeing a nice shelving system on someones layout, but I do not member which forum it was on. They had small skinny bars that ran up the wall and they could position brackets anywhere up the wall for different shelf heights, and they also used it for their around the room shelf layout. I want to do this as well, but I could not find what I was looking for. They had something similar, but the support brackets were meant for the metal shelving often used in closets, and had no way to secure a piece of wood to them....

Do any of you guys use something like this? If so, where did you guys get them from. I think i remember them saying they ordered them online, but i didnt save the page and now im kicking myself lol

Thanks in advance for any help
Josh Mader

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#2
I have a good memory, it's just a short one.. Icon_lol ....I seem to remember Ocalicreek is doing the shelf bracket thing....
Cheers,
Richard

T & A Layout Build http://bigbluetrains.com/forum/viewtopic...=46&t=7191
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#3
If you are thinking of the shelf layout Ocaliecreek is building, it is in the Layout Forum and probably near the top.
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#4
Thanks for the replies guys, I found what i was after. It was Shaun who I was thinking about... Misngth

Well, Im pretty sure I was able to gather a list of what i will need to build the layout as far as hardware (double standards and brackets) goes.

Here is a drawling of my room with everything layed out. The N scale layout is shown in the dotted light green....

Now if im doing everything right, I should need the following:

Double Standards:

16-1/2":
(2) for 6' wall (bottom for layout, top for photo diorama brackets)
(3) for 10' wall (behind tv)

28":
(5) for 10' wall (top for layout, bottom for shelf)
(4) for 12' wall (top for layout, bottom for shelf)
(3) for left wall (top for layout, bottom for shelf)

78":
(2) for Desktop/Printer Area (floor up to photo diorama Brackets)


Brackets:

24"
(8) for 10' wall
(5) for 6' wall
(4) for 12' wall
(3) for left wall

Total of 20 24" brackets

18-1/2":
(4) for 5' Photo Diorama

14-1/2":
(4) for Desktop/Printer Area (2 decks, printer on Upper Deck below layout)


The Desktop/Printer area will be on the 6' Wall next to the TV


Ill have shelving below the layout in several locations....

The window will have to be built like a box girder as no supports will be able to be anchored to the wall (obviously lol). Ill use 2x4's to make the box and tie it in with the supports on either side of the window, it should be plenty strong. I cannot do vertical supports in front of the window as it will interfere with my workbench and will make it un-usable.

Anyone see anything I might have done wrong? LOL


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Josh Mader

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#5
Josh, have you found a place to buy the shelf brackets at a relatively inexpensive price? Those 24" brackets are through-the-roof at HD.... $9 each Curse
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#6
In my recent experience (like last month Tongue ) I was about to forego the shelf brackets altogether because of the cost. However, I went back to the idea and eventually purchased some because of two reasons. One, I had some 18.5" brackets and 9" brackets left over from the last shelving project (layout and magazine support). Two, I found I could use half as many if I spaced them mostly on every other stud instead of every 16". At that point the cost was more managable.

You may be able to save $ on the vertical standards as well if you don't plan on having shelves above or below the layout. I used 24" standards because I won't be needing an upper shelf. I'd have had to find 36" or 30" standards in order to leave enough spacing between framing and the upper valance for sky & backdrop. Personally I don't like upper valances, as my eyes are drawn up into that space, defeating the purpose of trying to put the focus on the trains. It's a distraction, IMO.

These brackets are designed to handle alot of weight. If you get the standard lined up with the stud and use a long enough screw (I used #10, 2-1/2" screws after drilling a pilot hole), and you frame the layout well, you should have no problem with wider spacing. My layout framing will be constructed in order to line up with the brackets and put a brace in between brackets...a picture will explain better, I'm sure, when I get that far.

I haven't looked closely at your #s yet, but I'd say consider using 18.5" brackets instead of 24". I only used 2, 24" brackets where the track 'bridge' across the room will connect at either side, in order to proved additional support.

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#7
Gary S Wrote:Josh, have you found a place to buy the shelf brackets at a relatively inexpensive price? Those 24" brackets are through-the-roof at HD.... $9 each Curse

Gary,

I actually have found a GREAT place to buy them, thanks to Shaun Misngth

This guy on Amazon sells them for cheaper, and his shipping prices are EXCELLENT!

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?u...ty&x=0&y=0
Josh Mader

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#8
ocalicreek Wrote:In my recent experience (like last month Tongue ) I was about to forego the shelf brackets altogether because of the cost. However, I went back to the idea and eventually purchased some because of two reasons. One, I had some 18.5" brackets and 9" brackets left over from the last shelving project (layout and magazine support). Two, I found I could use half as many if I spaced them mostly on every other stud instead of every 16". At that point the cost was more managable.

You may be able to save $ on the vertical standards as well if you don't plan on having shelves above or below the layout. I used 24" standards because I won't be needing an upper shelf. I'd have had to find 36" or 30" standards in order to leave enough spacing between framing and the upper valance for sky & backdrop. Personally I don't like upper valances, as my eyes are drawn up into that space, defeating the purpose of trying to put the focus on the trains. It's a distraction, IMO.

These brackets are designed to handle alot of weight. If you get the standard lined up with the stud and use a long enough screw (I used #10, 2-1/2" screws after drilling a pilot hole), and you frame the layout well, you should have no problem with wider spacing. My layout framing will be constructed in order to line up with the brackets and put a brace in between brackets...a picture will explain better, I'm sure, when I get that far.

I haven't looked closely at your #s yet, but I'd say consider using 18.5" brackets instead of 24". I only used 2, 24" brackets where the track 'bridge' across the room will connect at either side, in order to proved additional support.


Thanks for the reply Galen Misngth

My room is faily small, so spacing on every stud shouldnt be a problem, especially since I will be buying from the Amazon seller mentioned in my last post Misngth

Also, you may not know, but the layout will be 30" minimum and 40" maximum (at loops), so 24" brackets I think ill be a must. Im also going to be making wooden slips to go over each bracket to give more of a mounting area for the benchwork. I will make the slips to be 30" so that they will extend 6" off the ends of each bracket to support the edge of the layout, i think that would be the best thing to do.

Im not sure what I will be doing with the front and back edge of the layout, but I think getting some STRAIGHT 2x2's or 1x3's and mounting them to the entire front and back edge of the layout would help strengthen the layout further. When I say getting some straight lumber, I mean cutting my own using 2x4's and ripping them down on a table saw. Its alot easier to find nice straight 2x4's then it is to find straight 2x2's and 1x3's lol
Josh Mader

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#9
Thanks for the link, Josh. I may need more brackets when I move the layout to the new building.

As for the lumber, have you considered 3/4" plywood ripped into the size you need? Alot of folks recommend that instead of the dimensional lumber because it is more stable and less prone to warping. I did this myself too. And, it may come out cheaper than the regular boards.
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#10
You guyz with your table saws! Being able to rip down lumber is a plus...I've seen it used on other layouts and the results look good.

I still think mounting on every stud is over the top, but if you're going to be supporting alot of HEAVY N-scale trains 357 then I guess you should go that route. But seriously, if you're going to have other shelves above or below that will be supporting something heavy, OR if you are not going to frame the layout then go every stud. If you are using layout framing or even 2" foam with a light 1x2 frame then you really don't have to worry about sagging between brackets.

Just my 2 cents. Half as many brackets could buy a new engine...

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#11
Gary S Wrote:Thanks for the link, Josh. I may need more brackets when I move the layout to the new building.

As for the lumber, have you considered 3/4" plywood ripped into the size you need? Alot of folks recommend that instead of the dimensional lumber because it is more stable and less prone to warping. I did this myself too. And, it may come out cheaper than the regular boards.

Ive often thought about using 3/4" Oak ply instead of using dimensional lumber, but have never given it a shot. Maybe its time for that LOL. I could probably get everything I need out of a single 4x8... i think a 1/4" ply ontop would be plenty, as I will be laying a layer of 1" foam down. A nice Masonite Facia to hide it all would be great as well
Josh Mader

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#12
ocalicreek Wrote:You guyz with your table saws! Being able to rip down lumber is a plus...I've seen it used on other layouts and the results look good.

I still think mounting on every stud is over the top, but if you're going to be supporting alot of HEAVY N-scale trains 357 then I guess you should go that route. But seriously, if you're going to have other shelves above or below that will be supporting something heavy, OR if you are not going to frame the layout then go every stud. If you are using layout framing or even 2" foam with a light 1x2 frame then you really don't have to worry about sagging between brackets.

LMAO, well, my grandfather has a 6-car garage full of Woodworking and Metal shop tools, so building layouts is always quite simple with the use of everything hes got in his shop LOL

I had forgotten about the shelves below the layout, and the module supports above the layout, that right there is enough that I should do every stud. That Photo Diorama is pretty heavy, and the shelving below will be used to store lots of layout materials, and rolling stock/engines (both HO and N scales)
Josh Mader

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#13
Quote:I had forgotten about the shelves below the layout, and the module supports above the layout, that right there is enough that I should do every stud. That Photo Diorama is pretty heavy, and the shelving below will be used to store lots of layout materials, and rolling stock/engines (both HO and N scales)

Well there you go! The magazines I had below mine were very heavy so I used tall uprights mounted on every stud extending down the wall from the height of the layout. I had planned on mounting a masonite backdrop framed by 1x2's to the wall and resting it on top of the uprights, but we moved before I could get that far. The uprights were 48" tall which put the layout at a good viewing height and left plenty of room for shelves below, enough to hold most of my magazines.

In my new location I won't be storing anything under the layout as it has to leave room for a computer cabinet, couch, TV, etc. so the layout bracket is at the bottom of the upright. The upright standard is mounted by 3 screws to the wall, top middle and bottom, which I hope will be enough to keep the layout from pulling the upright out of vertical Eek . I was a little concerned about the layout support bracket being at the bottom of the upright, but it seems VERY sturdy at present.

Keep us posted on your progress! Looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#14
I would like to do a backdrop and build a Valance, but i think I will skip it on this layout. I dont know how long I will have this layout, and its just something im doing for fun.... Im still living at home member, so I dont know how permanent this layout will be LOL. I'd rather spend time laying track and such then building a backdrop or Valance

BTW, I just noticed I spelled Shelving wrong in the title of this thread Nope :oops: Icon_lol
Josh Mader

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#15
Oh, well, Josh!! We knew what you meant!!
I only know what I know, and I don't understand very much of it, either.
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