Is there a Mike in the house

[cn nutbar]

Lutz---the locomotive in the background must be a heavy Mike hock: .Another shot of Canadian National S-1-B #3254

[cn nutbar]

Hello Everyone---sporting her Belpaire firebox,here's S-2-A #3529

[Schraddel]

cn nutbar,

i got hungry and instead of cutting my pizza with this "traditional" Middle-European NEM 340 pizzacutters which give at least very tiny pieces of 14mm x 14mm.
Nobody really gets satisfied by eating those small bits of pizza.

So i tried an American size

Lutz

[ocalicreek]

Thank you very much for posting all your fine Mikes. This is a really good thread for talking about one of most built engine. And I must say really good kitbashed and superdetailed jobs and very good looking pictures!
Here my Mikado, sorry a not rebuild and not kitbashed and also not superdetailed model out from the box, my VGN class MB - I think if model will be correct numbered.



Unfortunately pictured only with a railroad-far background, never pulling a model train and very seldom running on a test track only. I feel ashamed however I love this model.

Beautiful. Just plain beautiful.

Galen

[modelsof1900]

Galen,
thanks for your friendly comment. The weathering has done by a friend (the previous owner) and it looks neat - however it is not very correct.
However now I own my most loved steam engine, the mighty VGN class AE - and we do not have a 2-10-10-2 thread here? (Sorry, a small joke only.)

[cn nutbar]

Bernhard---please post a picture of your VGN class AE.Inspired by the railroad photography of David Plowden,here's a different look at Canadian National Mike #3529

[modelsof1900]

Nutbar,
Here for you (and all others also) a few pictures of the VGN class AE model.













The AE was built in 1918 by ALCO and it was at this time and also until to end of this loco type in 1952 an absolute giant!
- Pulling power 147,200 lbs (working as compound engine) and 176,600 lbs (as simple engine with high pressure steam to all four cylinders).
- The biggest cylinders ever used to a steam engine (30” high power and 48” low power, both 32” stroke) – for readers in metric dimensions: dia 762 mm and 1219 mm by 813 mm way.
- The biggest ever used boiler diameter 118” (outer dia.) or 2997 mm.
- Biggest wide at front cylinders 144” or 3658 mm.
- Weight on drivers in working orders 617,000 lbs.
The engines were so large that the must moved from the erecting shops to the VGN with removed front cylinders and without the cab.
What for an engine and built in 1918 already. See also the long living time – until 1952.
Compare these dates with all the many more modern engines like the DM&IR M-4, the B&O
EM-1, the C&O H-8 or the UP Big Boy and you will see, the AEs were really giants.
Their only problem was the extreme slow max. speed, only 15 mph because the small driver diameter, the big piston stroke and the extreme high masses of pistons, crossheads and rods – however it was good enough for pulling extreme heavy coal trains over steep grades while 35 years of life!
Can you discover my enthusiasm for this engine? The model is not the newest one with all the extreme detailing like newest mass produced plastic models or brass models also. But it was payable and it is a very rare model. And it will fit exactly my old time modeling until the thirties of last century and the two missing parts will be repaired without problems – a missing generator at smokebox front and a lost brass knee at exhaust pipe from front cylinder to smokebox. Note also that the two wheelsets without flanges of each driver group will be correct modeled after the original loco. This is not only a model adaption for better running through curves with a small radius.
The model runs very well also when I will replace the singe motor by a two motor power system so that front and rear engines will be work independently. This will give a very real look when the front engine only will run with slipping wheelsets for a short time. And than the sound to this scenery! I hope for success.

[cn nutbar]

Bernhard---thank you very much for posting these pictures---WOW,what a beauty---she makes my largest locomotives look small in comparison

[tetters]

ooooohhh! Shiney!!!

That thing is an absolute beast! hock:

[Sumpter250]

Interesting, that in all the "debates" over what was the largest, the VGN class AE, seems to have been overlooked. I do recall seeing 2-10-10-2's mentioned, in less than flattering terms, but I would have thought the AE would have gotten a lot more "press", being the success that it was.
Thanks for posting the model photo.
" That thing is an absolute beast! "......That's no beast, that's a "megabehemoth" !!!

[cn nutbar]

Hello again---here's a couple of CNR Mikes with a combined tractive effort of 104,000 lbs.It would take another Mike @ 52,000 lbs. of tractive effort to even come close to Bernard's VGN AE locomotive

[cn nutbar]

Hello Everyone---front end view of CNR S-1-D Mikado #3377

[toptrain]

Here is my mike before lettering

   

After letering for the Pensylvania Great Western

   

[Steamtrains]

WoW....Gotta love those Mikes..!!
Glad you guys posted these...."cuzz" I got a couple of questions....
Before going ahead and drilling my Mike for the number boards, I need to know how I'm going to get those little tiny numbers on there....
And I've been tempted to grind off the cast-on power reverser and put in a detailed one like the one on Toptrain's. I just might have to take the plunge....

So...What do you guys think..??

[doctorwayne]

Well, Gus, added detail parts usually look better than cast-on ones, but sometimes removal of the cast-on representations can be difficult. Another thing to watch for is that the area where the new part is to be installed has sufficient depth to allow that part to sit within the proper vertical plane. Otherwise, you'll need to either remove additional material from the boiler casting or remove material from the back surface of the new detail part.

As for the numberboard lettering, decals are much easier to apply than dry transfers. It helps if you can support the boiler/loco vertically while you work: I used a very heavy beer mug for this purpose, first swaddling the loco with a handkerchief or other clean cloth. This protects the finish and helps it to stand straight within the mug. To better position this for working, I place it in the open drawer over the knee-hole opening in my work desk, bring it down to a more comfortable level.
Cut the numerals from the decal sheet using a sharp blade and a straightedge, trimming as closely as possible to the printed image. Use magnification if necessary. The reasons for trimming close are twofold: first, some number boards are partitioned, with a space for each individual numeral. to get it to lie flat, it has to fit within that space. The second reason is applicable to number boards which are not partitioned: trimming closely allows you to position the numerals as closely together as necessary to get them to fit within the available area. Numerals not trimmed closely may, as you're lining them up, bump adjacent numerals with their blank edges, disturbing the alignment of previously-done work.
I like to dip the trimmed numerals into distilled water, using tweezers, then set them atop the sheet of glass which forms my usual work surface. I then apply another drop or two of water, using my fingertip, then let them sit. The decals need to sit until the image releases from the backing paper - don't rush this step, as any remaining adhesive will cause a "blush" under the applied decal. The adhesive is not required for the decal to stick to the work, only to the paper. After all of the numerals are in place, use tweezers to nudge them into position. If the water evaporates as you work, apply a little more with your fingertip or tweezers. As the numerals align, blot lightly with a clean hanky or other lint-free cloth - don't use a tissue. If they move or don't look straight, re-wet and re-position, and do so until satisfied with the results. Next, use a decent-quality brush to gently apply a little decal-setting solution. I like to use Microset for the first application, applying only a small amount without disturbing the positioning of the numerals. After that has dried, I use Solvaset to ensure that everything snuggles right down, slitting any areas where trapped air causes silvering. Apply a gloss or semi-gloss finish after the setting solution has thoroughly dried.
Most loco decal sets contain numerals meant for number boards, and don't be afraid to use ones from other sets, when necessary. I often find diesel numberboard lettering to fit well on steam locos, too.
If you're lettering with dry transfers, number boards can be difficult or, with partitioned ones, next to impossible. In this case, apply the dry transfers to some clear decal paper - for such small amounts, the blank areas on many commercial decal sets is ample room. Don't apply the numerals too close to the edge of the paper, though, and don't, when you cut your numerals from the main decal sheet, cut too close to the numerals. The reason for this is the necessity to spray the soon-to-be decals with a clear (gloss, semi-gloss, or matte) finish. If they're too close to the edge, the spray may seal the edge of the paper backing, making it difficult for water to penetrate. Allow this clear finish to dry fully (at least 24 hours) then trim each numeral and apply as outlined above. For a non-partitioned number board, you may want to apply the dry transfers to the decal paper so that they align properly on the paper. Then, after clear coating, they can be cut-out and applied as a unit.

Wayne