Where to buy lead (or other) weights for HO locos?

[P5se Camelback]

Quoting DoctorWayne :

"There are some tips on adding weight to locos HERE and a simple how-to on casting your own weights HERE."

end quote.

NICE choice, there Doc! Thank you!!!

[doctorwayne]

Quoting DoctorWayne :

"There are some tips on adding weight to locos HERE and a simple how-to on casting your own weights HERE."

end quote.

NICE choice, there Doc! Thank you!!!

Thanks, biL. While the pale blue looks pretty good (legible) on the dark background, it's much less-so on white, as you can see above, so it's not really a universal solution.

Wayne

[P5se Camelback]

Oops! :o :oops: :oops:

I guess it's back to the drawing board (one of my favorite places to be, actually!) 8-)

[RobertInOntario]

Well, I was able to find some much smaller square weights from one of my LHS's (although I'm still open to using fishing & hunting weights, just haven't had a chance to get to an outdoors store).

I've now weighted down a few locos and I've been impressed by how much more smoothly they run -- noticeably quieter and better at low speeds. This is encouraging me to add weights to some of my other locos, as long as I don't go crazy (I tend to overdo things)!

Rob

[jim currie]

Well, I was able to find some much smaller square weights from one of my LHS's (although I'm still open to using fishing & hunting weights, just haven't had a chance to get to an outdoors store).

I've now weighted down a few locos and I've been impressed by how much more smoothly they run -- noticeably quieter and better at low speeds. This is encouraging me to add weights to some of my other locos, as long as I don't go crazy (I tend to overdo things)!

Rob

if they have a sticky back they are automotive wheel weights smallest i have see are 1/8 oz , you brought out a good point about weighting loco's of keeping the max amps that wheel slip occurs below the motor rating a 8,4 watt motor(.7 amps times 12 volts) should not be run at over 80% 6.72 watts .56 amps ( i belive that is the number) for a extended period of time or it will damage the motor. no wheel slip = fried motor.
jim

[RobertInOntario]

Well, I was able to find some much smaller square weights from one of my LHS's (although I'm still open to using fishing & hunting weights, just haven't had a chance to get to an outdoors store).
I've now weighted down a few locos and I've been impressed by how much more smoothly they run -- noticeably quieter and better at low speeds. This is encouraging me to add weights to some of my other locos, as long as I don't go crazy (I tend to overdo things)!
Rob

if they have a sticky back they are automotive wheel weights smallest i have see are 1/8 oz , you brought out a good point about weighting loco's of keeping the max amps that wheel slip occurs below the motor rating a 8,4 watt motor(.7 amps times 12 volts) should not be run at over 80% 6.72 watts .56 amps ( i belive that is the number) for a extended period of time or it will damage the motor. no wheel slip = fried motor.
jim

Thanks, Jim... So you're basically saying if I add too much weight, I will fry the motor? Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

[doctorwayne]

Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

Rob, this will depend on the individual locomotive. When I was attempting to improve the pulling power of my Athearn Mikados, I made an "experimental" weight using sheet lead. Forming it into a "saddle-shape", I draped it over the boiler, held the tender with one hand, then applied power. The drivers slipped easily, showing that the applied weight was well within the limits of the motor's capabilities. Unfortunately, there was no way to physically cram all of that extra 22 ounces into the loco, as it would have been a great puller.
A simple way to test for the maximum allowable weight that can be added is to perform a similar test on each loco - for most, it will be impossible to hide that weight inside the body shell. When you apply the power, do not touch the loco to restrain it from moving. For a steam loco, hold the tender, and for diesels and other self-powered cars, couple on an unpowered freight or passenger car and and use that as the "brake handle". If the wheels slip when power is applied, your motor should be okay.

If your loco is equipped with traction tires (an abomination, in my opinion), be very careful when trying to add weight. Depending on the tires, slipping could be erratic, causing the loco to bounce as it alternately grips and slips. This is not good for the motor or the tires, as the latter can be stretched out-of-round, causing the loco to run with a pronounced "limp".

More important than the amount of weight added is the necessity to keep that weight balanced, and there's a little more info on that HERE (you need to scroll down beyond the original post).

All of my locos have had weight added, as my layout's many grades and curves offer an almost constant challenge to any locomotive attempting to move a train. When you've reached the point where your loco has no more room for extra weight, and, even with drivers slipping, it won't move the train, it's time to invest in more locos.

Wayne

[nachoman]

Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

Rob, this will depend on the individual locomotive. When I was attempting to improve the pulling power of my Athearn Mikados, I made an "experimental" weight using sheet lead. Forming it into a "saddle-shape", I draped it over the boiler, held the tender with one hand, then applied power. The drivers slipped easily, showing that the applied weight was well within the limits of the motor's capabilities. Unfortunately, there was no way to physically cram all of that extra 22 ounces into the loco, as it would have been a great puller.
A simple way to test for the maximum allowable weight that can be added is to perform a similar test on each loco - for most, it will be impossible to hide that weight inside the body shell. When you apply the power, do not touch the loco to restrain it from moving. For a steam loco, hold the tender, and for diesels and other self-powered cars, couple on an unpowered freight or passenger car and and use that as the "brake handle". If the wheels slip when power is applied, your motor should be okay.

If your loco is equipped with traction tires (an abomination, in my opinion), be very careful when trying to add weight. Depending on the tires, slipping could be erratic, causing the loco to bounce as it alternately grips and slips. This is not good for the motor or the tires, as the latter can be stretched out-of-round, causing the loco to run with a pronounced "limp".

More important than the amount of weight added is the necessity to keep that weight balanced, and there's a little more info on that HERE (you need to scroll down beyond the original post).

All of my locos have had weight added, as my layout's many grades and curves offer an almost constant challenge to any locomotive attempting to move a train. When you've reached the point where your loco has no more room for extra weight, and, even with drivers slipping, it won't move the train, it's time to invest in more locos.

Wayne

I should add that a locomotive with traction tires shouldn't slip at all. Of course, you can make it slip, but even my old pancake motor life-like locomotives with traction tires would grip the rail adequately despite being much lighter than a comparable athearn locomotive. If a traction tire locomotive is slipping, it is usually because of tires that are dried out or have oil on them, or simply too long of a train. The main reason for adding weight to locomotives with traction tires is for better electrical pickup.

[RobertInOntario]

Any estimate of what the maximum weight would be for a typical HO loco? Rob

Rob, this will depend on the individual locomotive. When I was attempting to improve the pulling power of my Athearn Mikados, I made an "experimental" weight using sheet lead. Forming it into a "saddle-shape", I draped it over the boiler, held the tender with one hand, then applied power. The drivers slipped easily, showing that the applied weight was well within the limits of the motor's capabilities. Unfortunately, there was no way to physically cram all of that extra 22 ounces into the loco, as it would have been a great puller.
A simple way to test for the maximum allowable weight that can be added is to perform a similar test on each loco - for most, it will be impossible to hide that weight inside the body shell. When you apply the power, do not touch the loco to restrain it from moving. For a steam loco, hold the tender, and for diesels and other self-powered cars, couple on an unpowered freight or passenger car and and use that as the "brake handle". If the wheels slip when power is applied, your motor should be okay.
If your loco is equipped with traction tires (an abomination, in my opinion), be very careful when trying to add weight. Depending on the tires, slipping could be erratic, causing the loco to bounce as it alternately grips and slips. This is not good for the motor or the tires, as the latter can be stretched out-of-round, causing the loco to run with a pronounced "limp".
More important than the amount of weight added is the necessity to keep that weight balanced, and there's a little more info on that HERE (you need to scroll down beyond the original post).
All of my locos have had weight added, as my layout's many grades and curves offer an almost constant challenge to any locomotive attempting to move a train. When you've reached the point where your loco has no more room for extra weight, and, even with drivers slipping, it won't move the train, it's time to invest in more locos. Wayne

Thanks, Wayne. This is helpful. I'll try to test the two main locos (to which I've now added extra weight) tonight, to see if their wheels slip. All I can say at this point, is that they are performing much better with the added weight. I think I've added roughly 6-8 oz. per loco.

Rob

[RobertInOntario]

I had a couple minutes, so I just checked my two main steam locos to which I've added extra weight. The driving wheels on each spun easily when I held onto their tenders while turning up the power. However, I had to turn up the throttle a fair bit higher on one of them. So it seems they're OK?

Cheers, Rob

[Russ Bellinis]

As long as the wheels are able to slip the motor will be fine. he motors fail when the wheels won't slip and the motor is stalled for a period of time.

[RobertInOntario]

As long as the wheels are able to slip the motor will be fine. he motors fail when the wheels won't slip and the motor is stalled for a period of time.

Thanks, Russ. It looks like I haven't added too much weight to them then. Cheers, Rob