HOn3 cars for TrainNut

[nachoman]

The trucks came unassembled. The sideframes and the bolsters are separate pieces, as are the journal box covers. The bolsters have brake beams attached, and the instructions say to cut off the inner brake shoes. I thought this instruction seemed odd, after all why add the brake shoes to the casting if they are to be cut off? But, I found it would be impossible to assemble with the brake shoes in place, and the inner brake shoes are hidden by the sideframes anyway. The instructions also say to assemble with CA. Solder could also be used but I thought JB weld would be the best choice. I have soldered unassembled trucks before, and they worked out okay, but they were difficult to hold together while soldering. The JB weld worked great on these trucks. I still need to weather them a bit and clean off the wheel treads.    

I also sprayed the caboose body with glosscote to prepare for decals. After the decals are in place, I will dullcote, install window glass, and then final assembly.    

[TrainNut]

From what I can see here, the handrails look great... as does the rest of it as well! Sheesh, with all the complications you've run into, I'd have given up a long time ago... wait... I DID give up a long time ago.
Does that style of truck have a name?

[nachoman]

Does that style of truck have a name?

I am glad you approve It has actually been a fun build so far, and the complications haven't been that bad. If one is expecting an easy "shake the box" kit, then the complications are more frustrating. The trucks are archbar with leaf springs (as opposed to coil springs)

[P5se Camelback]

I havent made as much progress on this as I had hoped ... have assembled and painted the trucks and assembled the roof pieces. I have also been painting the grab irons white. I don't have the steadiest hand in the world ...

I'm enjoying the journey, Nacho, as It's given me some encouragement, and I've spent some time today plugging 13 large holes in end platforms caused by cammed slides in the tooling to create the original coupler pocket, then "weld" two strips of Evergreen together to get the desired thickness, cut plugs to length, load them up with solvent and press them home. Photos soon on my thread Seen here (sorry about the shameless plug :oops: )

Now, my question ... you had to see that coming, right? I see what looks to be individual boards on those roof walks ... what is the thickness of those pieces? I have already cut 42 pieces for roof walks from styrene stock I decided was pretty much the correct thickness boards for the application, but I'd be interested in what someone else has done. Far be it from me to assume I know the answer ... I just made an "edumacated guesstimation." 8-)

Your input will be appreciated, thanks!

[nachoman]

I added decals, and things went well. After the decals were set, I took an x-acto blade and sliced the decals between the siding boards, and applied more decal setting solution. You can't even tell they are decals! There were two decals that didn't fit. They are two small messages that tell passengers to stay off the platforms. I assume this message was added by the Rio Grande when these cabooses were used at the end of the Silverton mixed train, after tourism picked up after WWII. The photos I have found usually place this message on the end doors, and the decal was too long to fit on the door, so I left it off. Next up is to clean up and paint the end railings (they are brass castings), install window glass, and the roof sections.

[doctorwayne]

Kevin, your lettering job turned out extremely well.

Now, my question ... you had to see that coming, right? I see what looks to be individual boards on those roof walks ... what is the thickness of those pieces? I have already cut 42 pieces for roof walks from styrene stock I decided was pretty much the correct thickness boards for the application, but I'd be interested in what someone else has done. Far be it from me to assume I know the answer ... I just made an "edumacated guesstimation." 8-)

For wooden roofwalks on my standard gauge cars, I use either 2"x6" or 2"x8" styrene boards, depending on the particular car. I use a couple of razor saws with different tooth coarseness to impart some exaggerated "wood grain" into full-length styrene strips, doing both wide surfaces of each strip. These are then cut to length to suit the roofwalk supports of each individual car. I stagger the individual boards accordingly, with the two outside courses identical (three boards each - the two end ones alike, with the middle one to suit). The centre run of the roofwalk is also three pieces, with the end ones alike (but not the same as the outer courses). This results in staggered joints, as is usually prototypical. If I'm doing multiple cars of the same type, from the same manufacturer, I distress and cut all of the boards, then toss them in a heap and pick out boards as required - this usually precludes matching "woodgrain" on adjoining planks. Roofwalk laterals, which weren't mandatory in my era, are usually included. I prefer the look of ones with the boards parallel to those on the roofwalk, although I try to match the prototype if possible.

This modified Athearn wood reefer got new wood ends and a new roof. The hatches and platforms are from Tichy, with homemade grabirons, and the roofwalk is 2"x8" styrene boards:


Another modified Athearn reefer, a steel one, retained its original ends but got a scratchbuilt roof to more closely represent its prototype. The modified Athearn hatches aren't exactly prototypical, but are close enough for me. The roofwalk here is built from three rows of 2"x6" "boards".


This re-build of an old Varney all-metal boxcar got a new roofwalk to replace the original cast metal one, which had broken in several places. For this car, it was easier to pre-assemble the plastic roofwalk, then secure it to the roof with contact cement. My usual practice, though, is to assemble them, piece by piece, on the car.




It's easier to see the individual boards here:




Wayne

[nachoman]

Speaking of roofwalks - my measurements say that 2x6 was the common size board that was used. I have also read that roofwalk boards were unpainted - because painted wood can be slick when wet and a safety hazard. Given the quality of paints of the day, and the abuse from the elements (especially sun), I doubt paint on a roofwalk would have lasted more than a couple years anyway. heck, even modern paint on a wooden deck will show considerable wear after 5 years. After reading this, I started to paint my wooden roofwalks a wood color.

[TrainNut]

Very vibrant, crisp, clear lettering. The D&RGW across the top almost looks like it has depth to it.

[nachoman]

I am finishing up details on the caboose, waiting for paint to dry. So, last night I broke out the boxcars and began drilling for grab irons while watching TV. It is a perfect TV activity; unfortunately of the 4 sports playoffs series going on right now, none seem very competitive . I plan to build the three boxcars assembly line style. Instead of building one after another, I will do each instruction step to all three cars before moving on.

[nachoman]

Here is the completed caboose. I glued the cupola side window glass to the outside because that is the way the prototype appears to have them (some kind of sliding window). I also added chains across the platforms, and some light airbrush weathering with Polly Scale Oily black. The light colored specks you see on the caboose side are some dust that flew on just before I took the photo (it brushes right off). I only mention this because perhaps this is the dust that is causing me allergy misery the past few days

Anyway, on to working on the boxcars!

[ocalicreek]

That certainly builds into a nice little crummy. Great job!

Galen

[nachoman]

I realized some people may not be aware how small HOn3 is, so I took one more photo in the sun in front of a standard US quarter. It really isn't that much bigger than N-scale standard gauge, and is the reason I started into narrow gauge. I wanted something that I could build a small layout in an apartment, yet still large enough where detailing rolling stock wasn't too tedious.

[P5se Camelback]

Get some salsa for the Nacho Man!

Serious Kudos!! That's some nice model work, Nachoman! You've made yourself proud! I can only hope that my "Cute Little Crummies" come close!

The TrainNut is a lucky guy to have someone to build his kits with results as nice as this little hack!

What's next"

[TrainNut]

You know what this means kevin? I've got a serious itch to get started on the HOn3 portion of my layout now. I wish that caboose were full size 'cause I want to climb all over it and check it out.

[doctorwayne]

Great job, Kevin.

Wayne