How to paint with the best results possible?

[Trucklover]

Hi guys,

For my Shorline Railroad im modeling, M&ET, im going to need to custom paint all 13 switching locos (9 70-Toners, 2 SW1500's, and 2 RP20BD's).

Can i get some tips and techniques to get the best results possible? here is a pic of an example of the paint scheme for the M&ET: http://www.metrr.com/images/metrr01.jpg

Its a fairly simple paint scheme as you can see, but i want to get nice clean and straight lines where the paint changes colors from white to red.....

I will be using Paasche VL Dual action airbrush: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXDD38&P=M with a Paasche Compressor with regulator: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti...LXNBB6&P=7

I just would like to know what kind of techniques you guys use to get good custom painting results..... What masking tape is the best to use?......

[Charlie B]

Truck lover,
I can tell you that the most important thing is to use the right paint, with the right thinner. (the right thinner might not be the manufacturers recommendation). Thin the paint at a rate of 50/50 and hold your air brush about a foot away and apply light even coats. Let the paint dry between coats and just apply enough paint to get good coverage. Don't obscure the details. It will save you money in the long run if you practice for a while until you get the feel of it. Let the paint dry a week before taping it off.
The taping part I'll leave for someone else.
Charlie

[steinjr]

doctorwayne posted this on masking in the old forum at zealot:

Once you have initially applied the tape to the model, sight along the line of the tape - this will show any deviations from a straight line: despite your most careful measurements when cutting the tape, raised details on the model can throw the tape line off. When everything looks satisfactory, use your finger nail or a suitable tool to burnish the tape in place. While the tape will stretch to allow you to mould it over raised details, you'll have less chance of the tape lifting from these areas while you're painting if you allow some slack in the tape as you're burnishing. A good way to maintain your straight line during this step is to first apply a temporary strip of tape on the opposite side of the line that you're attempting to mask along - this doesn't need to be burnished, but allows you to burnish the actual masking as you apply it, while still keeping a straight line. Obviously, remove this guide tape before painting.

If you're really worried about colours "bleeding" under the tape, apply a spray, using same colour over which you've applied the tape, along the edge of the newly applied tape, in order to seal it. When that's dry to the touch, apply the new colour, and as soon as it's dry to the touch, remove the masking tape. To do so, use the tip of an X-Acto blade to lift an end of the tape, then pull the tape back over itself at the sharpest angle possible - the sharper the angle, the less chance of lifting the paint under the tape. Even after exercising all of this care, you may find areas that require touch-up. To do so, wait until the paint is completely dry, then use a good-quality brush and unthinned paint to perform this task.

Smile,
Stein

[Trucklover]

Truck lover,
I can tell you that the most important thing is to use the right paint, with the right thinner. (the right thinner might not be the manufacturers recommendation). Thin the paint at a rate of 50/50 and hold your air brush about a foot away and apply light even coats. Let the paint dry between coats and just apply enough paint to get good coverage. Don't obscure the details. It will save you money in the long run if you practice for a while until you get the feel of it. Let the paint dry a week before taping it off.
The taping part I'll leave for someone else.
Charlie

Hi Charlie, thanks for the tips and suggestions

I plan on using Floquil and Polly Scale Paints. Whats a good thinner to use with these paints?

[Trucklover]

Stein, thank-you for posting the doc's advise he has given you It will definitely help me out when it comes time to masking the lines

[Charlie B]

Hi Charlie, thanks for the tips and suggestions

I plan on using Floquil and Polly Scale Paints. Whats a good thinner to use with these paints?[/quote]
I use lacquer thinner with floquil however it WILL DISSOLVE MOST plastics so you have to be very sure you put the paint on dry. With this it is best to practice with an old cheap ho car. Just apply enough paint so it goes on wet but flashes dry instantly. Keep in mind that I have been spray painting for 45 years and can get away with a lot. Use in a well ventilated area.
I never used any PolyScale however I read somewhere to use alcohol for thinner.
As with everything it takes practice. Good Luck
Charlie

[UP SD40-2]

...I never used any PolyScale however I read somewhere to use alcohol for thinner.
As with everything it takes practice. Good Luck
Charlie

Polly Scale paints clean up with water, and you can use water to thin it out for spraying with an airbrush. I use Isopropyl Alcohol to thin Polly Scale paints, doing that speeds up the drying time , thats just MY preferance :mrgreen: .

i use water for clean up on Polly Scale paints, not alcohol.

[Charlie B]

...I never used any PolyScale however I read somewhere to use alcohol for thinner.
As with everything it takes practice. Good Luck
Charlie

Polly Scale paints clean up with water, and you can use water to thin it out for spraying with an airbrush. I use Isopropyl Alcohol to thin Polly Scale paints, doing that speeds up the drying time , thats just MY preferance :mrgreen: .

i use water for clean up on Polly Scale paints, not alcohol.

Deano, Todd tried PolyScale with water for thinner and told me it came out in splotches. I don't know if he tried alcohol (for thinner) or not. I know if I messed up a batch of ho paint jobs I would probably use a lot of alcohol.

[UP SD40-2]

Deano, Todd tried PolyScale with water for thinner and told me it came out in splotches. I don't know if he tried alcohol (for thinner) or not. I know if I messed up a batch of ho paint jobs I would probably use a lot of alcohol.

Charlie, it sounds to me like the paint wasnt mixed well, or perhaps Todd had some semi-hard chunks in it. :?:

I am a big advocate on cutting Polly Scale with Isopropyl Alcohol , on the other hand, our good friend Wayne swears by the use of water to cut it, i have done both with GREAT success , but i really prefer the isopropyl alcohol because of the speed in the drying process .

[Charlie B]

I find that water based paints on plastic IMHO don't have the wetting agent they need to flow properly. I think the alcohol would be a great improvement for this.
Charlie

[jmarksbery]

I know a lot of folks that use BLUE windshield washer fluid and it works very well for them. I myself have not tried it but they swear by it!

[steinjr]

Stein, thank-you for posting the doc's advise he has given you It will definitely help me out when it comes time to masking the lines

I just tried it too - worked pretty good - I got a pretty nice and crisp edge between the two colors. Btw - the advice from the good doctor was not directed specifically to me - I just found it by searching for engine and masking at the old (zealot) site, and thought it deserved to follow with over to the new forum.

I just got Jeff Wilson's book on painting in the mail yesterday evening. Hope to get to start reading it tonight - has just leafed through it quickly - looks like a some Wilson books I have picked up before - well illustrated and practically oriented.

Good luck with painting your engines - I think a small fleet of GE 70-tonners in Modesto and Empire colors would look very good!

Smile,
Stein, who is experimenting with painting engines too - I'd like to end up with a couple of engines in Omaha Road colors (ie C & NW black and Yellow with "CStPM & O" on the hood) and one in M&StL's post 1956 colors (ie Red with white stripe).

[Trucklover]

I use lacquer thinner with floquil however it WILL DISSOLVE MOST plastics so you have to be very sure you put the paint on dry. With this it is best to practice with an old cheap ho car. Just apply enough paint so it goes on wet but flashes dry instantly. Keep in mind that I have been spray painting for 45 years and can get away with a lot. Use in a well ventilated area.
I never used any PolyScale however I read somewhere to use alcohol for thinner.
As with everything it takes practice. Good Luck
Charlie

Polly Scale paints clean up with water, and you can use water to thin it out for spraying with an airbrush. I use Isopropyl Alcohol to thin Polly Scale paints, doing that speeds up the drying time , thats just MY preferance :mrgreen: .

i use water for clean up on Polly Scale paints, not alcohol.

Charlie and Denao, thanks guy for the advise on the thinners. I havnt decided which paints i will be using yet, but i think that Floquil has more of the colors i will be using, or maybe it was the other way around LOL i cant member

I like the idea of faster drying with Polly Scale when you add Isopropyl Alcohol to thin them, so thats what ill be doing

Charlie, when you say "I use lacquer thinner with floquil however it WILL DISSOLVE MOST plastics so you have to be very sure you put the paint on dry." what exactly do you mean by making sure you put the paint on dry?

[Trucklover]

I know a lot of folks that use BLUE windshield washer fluid and it works very well for them. I myself have not tried it but they swear by it!

Ive heard this too, but like you, have never tested it out for myself lol

[Trucklover]

Stein, thank-you for posting the doc's advise he has given you It will definitely help me out when it comes time to masking the lines

I just tried it too - worked pretty good - I got a pretty nice and crisp edge between the two colors. Btw - the advice from the good doctor was not directed specifically to me - I just found it by searching for engine and masking at the old (zealot) site, and thought it deserved to follow with over to the new forum.

I just got Jeff Wilson's book on painting in the mail yesterday evening. Hope to get to start reading it tonight - has just leafed through it quickly - looks like a some Wilson books I have picked up before - well illustrated and practically oriented.

Good luck with painting your engines - I think a small fleet of GE 70-tonners in Modesto and Empire colors would look very good!

Smile,
Stein, who is experimenting with painting engines too - I'd like to end up with a couple of engines in Omaha Road colors (ie C & NW black and Yellow with "CStPM & O" on the hood) and one in M&StL's post 1956 colors (ie Red with white stripe).

Stein, i saw your results you got and there were a huge improvement on the straightness and crispness of the lines!! I think you did a very good job and followed the docs advise very well, it sure shows

Ill have to look up that book you mentioned as well, that sounds like it would be a helpful book to get

I also think that a fleet of M&ET switchers would look pretty cool, they have a couple different paint schemes, so not all of there locos will be the same, the newer ones have a different paint scheme then the older ones, so it should make for a cool looking fleet