filing in a river

[KevinKrey]

So I have a river scene on my layout. I have a few questions though. Top try and level it I used some plaster mix I had left over, mixed it real wet poured and spread. Its not sanding smooth as I had hopped, rather just gumming on the sandpaper. So I used a metal adge and smothed it pretty well, but has anybody had decent results modeling a river without perfectly flat base for it?

And my other question is what to use. last time I used realistic water from WS. but since then its doubled in price. the water pelets they make are also spendy. Ive read about using matte medium. Anybody have more info on this?

[mountaingoatgreg]

can't help with the prepared surface but I can suggest a water...

Magic Water by Unreal Detail

It is a two part resin that is specifically designed as a model water. It is self leveling and if poured at a constant rate will not cloud or have bubbles. they also claim it will never, crack, yellow haze etc. etc. I have used it with good success and have also found that it can be tinted and manupulated .

Good luck and post some pictures when you get a chance!

[P5se Camelback]

A helpful word ...

When pouring resin for a river (or Silastic RTV for a mold, or whatever ...) pour from a height and pour just fast enough (or slowly enough, depending on your point of view) so that the constant pour comes to almost a tooth pick or ballpoint pen refill size right where it hits the surface of "the pour."

The philosophy is that if you "neck down" the liquid being poured to a very thin stream at the point of contact with the "pour site," any bubble larger than the diameter of the stream at contact will disperse before the "contact point" and the prospect of air bubbles in the final product will be greatly reduced. Pour primarily in one spot and let the liquid spread on its own. If that is not possible, slowly move the "point of contact," keeping it within the area of the spreading liquid while continuing to pour the "skinny pour" as the "contact point" moves towards the area where more of the liquid being poured is needed.

It also helps if you don't do anything to encourage the development of air bubbles in the first place, so stir slowly and smoothly!

(Is that explained clearly ... or is it "convolutingly confusing?" My daughter accuses me of explaining things that way all the time!)

[Ralph]

Hi Kevin, I'd encourage you to not give up on trying to make the surface smooth. I think whatever you use for water will still show the irregularities of the base surface. Maybe you'll have some success wet sanding with a sanding sponge like this: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5747">http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5747</a><!-- m --> I've bought them at Menards and have used them to sand my joint compound roads.

Best wishes!
Ralph

[nachoman]

Depends on how rough it is. Try coarse sandpaper (60 grit) to get it mostly smooth, and then try something like 120 grit to get it a little smoother. The 60 grit won't clog up so bad. You can pour envirotex epoxy pretty thick (I've seen people go as thick as 1/4"-1/2" in multiple pours), so It can cover up a surface that is somewhat rough.

[yellowlynn]

I have poured quite thin plaster mix and found out it sands the same, EXCEPT, wait several DAYS before sanding. It eventually hardens, but for some reason, it takes a very long time.

Lynn

[P5se Camelback]

The length of time it takes to "set' is short, but the time necessary to "give up all of its moisture" can be more than a couple days if it is in a humid environment.

YellowLynn is right! Give it a few days to "harden" before proceeding, especially ... don't put anything on top of it until it is absotively, posilutely totally dried out!! (I don't believe I didn't catch it when you said it was clogging the sand paper!!! IT"S TOO WET!

Give it a chance to dry out! It'll all go much easier then! You'll see!

[Sumpter250]

can't help with the prepared surface but I can suggest a water...
Magic Water by Unreal Detail
It is a two part resin that is specifically designed as a model water. It is self leveling and if poured at a constant rate will not cloud or have bubbles. they also claim it will never, crack, yellow haze etc. etc. I have used it with good success and have also found that it can be tinted and manupulated .

It is a bit "pricey", but I've had a long conversation with the manufacturer, and I believe that the product is worth its cost. As in all things, I would recommend a test or two before applying it to the layout. It's not what you use, but how well you've learned to use it.

[KevinKrey]

Thanks for the advice guys. Ill wait a day or so and try again. I just figured it would be ready sooner since its the same stuff I use to cast rocks that "hardens" in 20 minutes. As for the actual water. I might wind up diggin in my pockets after all, we shall see. And soon my little layout people will happily be on the river !

[Russ Bellinis]

You can also use a clear gloss polyurethane like you would use for furniture or cabinets. We put in oak butcher block counters in our remodeled kitchen, and I finished them with Minwax polyurethane. It dries clear and doesn't yellow. Just put on multiple thin coats and allow to dry between coats. You can put on quite a few coats as long as it is allowed to dry thoroughly between coats. One warning, because it goes on in thin coats, it won't fill rough holes or imperfections on your lake or river bottom, so you need to prepare that thoroughly before you apply the clear coat. You also need to "color" your lake or river on the bed before you apply the poly because it will dry clear.