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Initial results of making grass tufts similar to the Heki stuff:
Using the GERN GrassBlaster, a piece of sheetmetal, and some 6mm static grass. Took some white glue, mixed in a bit of gray-green paint, and then put drops on the sheet metal. Added static grass with the Grassblaster, then left it alone for a couple of days. Came back with a knife and lifted the tufts off the sheetmetal. More experimentation is in order, paint color, size and shape of glue drops, whether or not to slightly dilute the glue, and how much grass to put on.
Another thought is to place wax paper over the sheetmetal so the knife wouldn't be necessary. And perhaps even better, just put the glue drops directly on the layout where you want the tufts, and GrassBlast them right there!
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that is an EXCELLENT idea. I would try making them directly on the layout.
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 Very cool!
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...... Very kool, indeed! ... but that dark blade has very scary qualities!
biL
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Nicely done, Steve! That's one scary looking knife you've got there!
:o
Galen
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I was wondering if anyone would say anything about that knife. It's just a grungy old kitchen knife that would probably give you blood poisoning if you cut yourself with it. 
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If there was any other reason to build the grass blaster, you've found it!! I am most curious to see how well it works with glue drops right on the layout.
Thanks for the experimentation, this is a whole new learning curve ! 
One Question: Just how much distance can exist between the sheet metal, and the "glue", before the static attraction is broken ? ( in the case of polystyrene foam scenery base )
Where I use expanded aluminum "gutter screen" as a scenery base, maybe the sheet metal wouldn't be necessary, just clip to the screen.
I was going to ask about using clear siliconized acrylic caulk, instead of white glue, but....too shiny.
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That is really cool Gary! So many great ideas.
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Come on guys, that knife is just Gary's "Sling Blade" Mmmm Hmmm
Okay Gary that is very clever...
I made the super cheap Grass Blaster using an electric flyswatter. It does the job, kind of. When I get to scenery, I will need to follow your wonderful tutroial and steal all your tricks!!
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Sumpter250 Wrote:One Question: Just how much distance can exist between the sheet metal, and the "glue", before the static attraction is broken ? ( in the case of polystyrene foam scenery base ) Where I use expanded aluminum "gutter screen" as a scenery base, maybe the sheet metal wouldn't be necessary, just clip to the screen.
Will do some experimenting Friday night to see. In my head, I am thinking that since the blue foam has a propensity for static electricity anyway, it may work as one side of the capacitance without a large spot of wet glue acting as a conductor. I'll put some glue drops onto the blue foam and then stick the probe in the dry foam and try it.
On a technical note, my GrassBlaster uses a 120 volt AC input on the ion generator. It has a common connection between one side of the 120 volt input and one side of the 7500 volt output. Because the neutral in our electrical service panel is connected to the earth, that means the entire earth is acting as one side of the capacitance already. Essentially, one side of the 7500 volt output is already connected to "ground" - the earth, and all piping and conduits and panel cans and concrete slabs, on and on. Just because some of these items are not good conductors does not mean that they cannot participate in building up an electrostatic charge.
The ion generators with the 12 volt DC input have a high voltage output which is isolated from ground. The wiring is a bit different than with the 120 volt model, and certainly the 120 volt model could be more hazardous because it is important to make sure that the neutral of the 120 volt receptacle used as the power source is wired correctly... don't want the "hot" and "neutral" switched, because then your "static probe" from the Blaster would be at 120 volts, and exposed to routine handling by the would-be scenery expert.
If anyone wants wiring diagrams or a deepre explanation, let me know.
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Gary S Wrote:... It has a common connection between one side of the 120 volt input and one side of the 7500 volt output...
My wife and I just started to make plans for our US trip in summer 2011. I am afraid we will miss you if you continue to use the 120 volt device 
You should really not take that risk just for some model grass!
Reinhard
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Reinhard, not to worry, I've been an electrician for 30 years now. To tell you the truth, with the 120 volts that we use over here, every time you walk barefooted on the ground, you are connected to one side of the power source without even knowing it. And, it isn't much different than using a 120 volt electric drill or a vacuum cleaner. Gotta admit though, it is a little more hazardous than the 12 volt model, but only for those who don't know what is going on.
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Gary S Wrote:Reinhard, not to worry, I've been an electrician for 30 years now. Gotta admit though, it is a little more hazardous than the 12 volt model, but only for those who don't know what is going on.
I've been "bit" once. Used a shorting probe to discharge everything....( except the plate cap for the transmitter final power amp )....Familiarity breeds contempt.
14,000 Volts DC, from a pulse forming network of a search Radar unit. Fortunately, when all was "said ( actually I didn't say anything ) and done"......I still had a "pulse".
Never stop "worrying".
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Geez! Electricity and I are not necessarily froiends to start out with ...
... I have a very healthy repect for ol' Reddie Kilowatt!
But you guys have got me thinking now ...
... Should I be wearing a double layer of paint stripping gloves over a pair of laytex examination gloves, my pair of Crocs and stand on rubber bath mat when I use the Noch version of the GERN GrassBlaster?  hock: hock:
biL
Lehigh Susquehanna & Western
"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves." ~~Abraham Lincoln
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