Pennsy 2-8-2 L1
#16
That's turning out really SUPER..!! I like the work on the tender as well. I'm going to have to "steal" from you...Fair and Square.... Goldth

BTW...Does any one know of a source for NMRA 8 pin plugs and sockets..??
Gus (LC&P).
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#17
Steamtrains Wrote:That's turning out really SUPER..!! I like the work on the tender as well. I'm going to have to "steal" from you...Fair and Square.... Goldth

BTW...Does any one know of a source for NMRA 8 pin plugs and sockets..??

TCS (<!-- w --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.tcsdcc">www.tcsdcc</a><!-- w -->) has several connectors but I don't see any NMRA 8 pins. Still it may be worth a looksie...

Lutz - the paint job looks fine. Somehow it does look different than the 'standard' airbrush jobs, and in a good way, IMO. Did you prime the engine first?

Thanks,

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#18
Hello!

These 8-pin connectors i made yourself starting with this:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/741360/PRAeZ-BUCHSENLEISTE-1X20-VERG-RM254/SHOP_AREA_17376&promotionareaSearchDetail=005">http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/7413 ... Detail=005</a><!-- m -->
This is an example of an German online dealer for electronic parts.
I'm sure there will be a lot more of this kind of business in the USA.
The pattern is 2.54mm.
I glued two of them together with ACC.
Then cut them in blocks to generate 8-pin sockets or connectors.
It' s simple the cheapest way.

The loco and tender was'nt primered. The running gear, cylinder blocks, frame and tender trucks were painted matte black. Boiler, cab and tender sides were painted silk matte.

Greetings Lutz
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#19
Thanks, Lutz. Looking forward to more progress photos.

I purchased similar connecter strips from an electronics firm here in the US only to discover when I got the package that they were different sizes (male and female didn't line up! Eek ) I was so frustrated by this, and already frustrated by searching through and trying to decipher online electronic catalog information, and even more so by searching my local phone directory to find a local electronics dealer with a real person I could talk to and ask questions, that I just threw up my hands in disgust and said, "To #@!! with it, I'll just hardwire it!".

Only since then have I discovered other DCC manufacturers who already have connectors soldered to wires. In my opinion it is well worth it to just pay extra and buy the ready made pigtails & connectors rather than go through the hassle of trying to track down then make your own connectors. I found a way to make use of the connectors I already purchased so all is not lost, but I would not wish my experience on any friend.

Galen
I may not be a rivet counter, but I sure do like rivets!
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#20
Hello!

Now this is the final chapter of how i built the Pennsy L1.
As i wrote, i filled every tiny space in the loco with lead. This is the result on the kitchen scale:
[Image: dsc01104ou5j.jpg]
As you see on the photo, the scale shows 713 Gramms, that are app. 25oz.
The Pennsy never has need for Big Boys... Wink
On the rear of the loco you see the selfmade 8-pin connector.


[Image: dsc00697wh8f.jpg]
[Image: dsc00698yhop.jpg]
Here is the nerly finished L1. The tender got a load of coal. It is really black coulored ballast. I made a pile to form an 3/4 full tender, then soaked intensively with white glue, adde 2 drops of dish detergent and let dry 3 days. The white glue drys with a little gloss just to represent the right glitter of broken coal.
On the pilot i mounted a Kadee #78 coupler in its box and on the tender also.
In the bottom of the tender i drilled several holes in preparation for an sound device.
I made glass for the cab out of clear styrene, cut it exactly and inserted it in the front and rear windows.
Also i made this little glass windshields on the side windows. They had no chance to survive on the rough layout running, so i leave them.

[Image: dsc02348wdn5.jpg]
This is the L1 test running on my new layout.
Not test running for the L1, but test running for newly laid track and switches. Smile

I hope you have enyojed my report to built a Bowser kit and to get the result as near as possible to todays standards as running, DCC and sound equipment.
Thank you.

Greetings Lutz
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#21
Very nice work, Lutz, and, judging by the shot with the loco on the scales, nice to see a loco that's built to be a real workhorse. Thumbsup Thumbsup

Wayne
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#22
That's a fabulous job you did with that kit...!! Thumbsup
Thanks for sharing it with us....I'll be picking up quite a few pointers from this... Goldth

P.D. - If you aim to test the newly laid track...You'd better re-rail the loco.... Wink
Gus (LC&P).
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#23
Wow... weighing that much, I guess it would cost you a few dollars to ship it to me... Icon_lol

Very nicely done! Thumbsup
-Dave
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#24
Steamtrains Wrote:P.D. - If you aim to test the newly laid track...You'd better re-rail the loco.... Wink

Yes steamtrains,
all wheels are really on the track. The photo deceives a little bit.
The running gear is fully equalized, as i described because i made a 3-point suspension.
So the drivers of the 2nd and 3rd are really on the rail too and not a little bit above it as in original kit form.
In this case they are heavy sprung loaded and bear their part of the loco.

Greetings Lutz
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