Plaster

[RobL]

During my previous runs at building up the scenery base, I have used the woodland scenics plaster cloth over cardboard strips and/or screen... I cringe at the thought of actually paying for that plaster cloth, it is so darn expensive!

My question is to any of you plaster gurus out there: what are my alternatives? I have read about dipping paper towers into plaster, but I have never read what the magic is, i.e. plaster consistency (proper mix of water to plaster) and what types of paper towels work best? It sounds like this would be a much more cost effective way to build up the layout.

Any other plaster tips and tricks would be most appreciated!

Thanks,
--Rob.

[yellowlynn]

I use a mix of plaster just thin enough to slop on with a brush. Tear newspaper into the right length and width to be able to handle easy. Put a drop or 2 of vinegar in the plaster mix to keep it from setting too fast. Use a bigger paper to paint on, lay the strip down on it, slop the POP on it, then lay it on your form. Just keep building it up. It takes a lot longer to dry and harden because of the vinegar.

If I have everything lined out, sometimes I get by without vinegar. Mix a little less than normal, then just keep mixing and going. After it is all on, a brushed on coat covers up any goofs caused by going fast. Works great for me, and paper is cheaper than towels.

Good luck

Lynn

[Charlie B]

I too have used Lynn's method in the past, and it works well. This time however, I built my supports with strips of fiberglass screen and stuffed it full of crinkled newspapers. I then used the Scott Shop Towels that are blue and come in a roll. they are more cloth than paper and are a little harder to keep wet.
I soaked them in Dura-Bond 45 (from Home Depot 10.25 for 25 pounds) and used a 2 inch brush to spread on the towels then placed the towels on the surface.
I used a 1 to one mix of water to Dura-Bond.
This sets very slow, so put the first coat on and just leave it alone for a day. The next day I mixed more Dura-Bond and applied a heavy coat with a brush. This sets a little quicker so I could put another coat on after about 8 hours. I didn't have the hardness I wanted until the 4th coat was applied. I'm thinking that using the newspaper strips for the second coat over the towels would add some strength.
The Dura-Bond 45 sets in 45 minutes and they make 20 minute and 90 minute too. I use the 20 for making castings and it works good.
Home Depot also sells molding plaster in larger bags which is plaster-of-paris at reasonable prices.
Charlie

[RobL]

Thank you both for the tips! Do you just use the plaster as the "top" layer and then add scenery to it or do you do a top coat of sculptamold or some other medium? Previously I always did a skim coat of sculptamold over the plaster cloth, but it sounds like that may not be necessary with the paper and plaster method? I always did the sculptamold layer to cover any spots missed when smoothing out the plaster from the cloth, but it would be nice to cut a step out while saving a few bucks!

Thanks,
--Rob.

[yellowlynn]

After a few layers, when I feel it is thick enough, or solid enough for whatever I'm doing, I usually "paint" on a coat of plaster, and use the bristles to create dips, grooves, grains, humps, or whatever I will be doing later. Sculptamold or paper-mache can be used for making rock lines and such.

As an afterthought now, I made a mountain, and in one spot I put a small rockslide. For that, I used a soupy mix and poured it down then immediately scratched it to roughen and strewed a few rocks and boulders at the bottom. A few tree trunks and limbs sticking out helped the look.

Lynn

[Charlie B]

I just use the plaster material. An old trick was to use a shaker and shake powered plaster on the project while it was wet to produce a texture like dirt. The problem is it looks like plaster was shaken on an made to look like dirt. .
Like Lynn, I use a brush and try to keep the strokes horizontal so it looks similar to the natural layering of the earth but I have added places where I have made it look like there was an ancient rift in the earth. Once you are satisfied with the strength of the structure, let it dry good and then stain with flat water base paint of your choice. You might add some paint to the last batch of plaster too, to keep chips from showing as glaringly as white plaster.
Charlie

[Sumpter250]

I still like expanded aluminum gutter screen ( for keeping leaves out of the rain gutters...attach with staples, or small nails. The screen can be shaped, and holds its shape well ). I used to use newspaper strips in a 50/50 water/white glue mix. The strips are laid over the screen and allowed to dry thoroughly.
Semi-thin coats of Hydrocal are then painted/brushed over the strips.
I've found, that with the gutter screen, a single layer of plaster cloth makes a good replacement for the paper strips, and the plaster sticks well to it, especially if it is applied while the plaster cloth is still damp ( or has been misted with water to dampen it ).
In either case, the paper strips can be cut to any length, or the plaster cloth can be "cut to fit".
I used the paper strips on my old modules, and they have bounced around in the trailer, on the way to shows, over the past twenty years, with virtually no damage.
Because of the thin shell, buildings should have a good base to attach to, and trees should be planted with a "ring of sand" around the base, soaked in water/white glue to make a wide base....ground cover can be restored, after the "sand-crete" is dry.

[Catt]

My plaster cloth concists of used dryer sheets either dipped in soupy plaster or white glue.This is a very ecconomical way of getting plaster cloth and also helps just the tiniest bit by keeping something out of our landfills.

You can also buy the material at just about any fabric shop for a very reasonable price,but I'm cheap and just use the used drier sheets.

[Sumpter250]

My plaster cloth concists of used dryer sheets either dipped in soupy plaster or white glue.This is a very ecconomical way of getting plaster cloth and also helps just the tiniest bit by keeping something out of our landfills.

You can also buy the material at just about any fabric shop for a very reasonable price,but I'm cheap and just use the used drier sheets.

And.........with a little GERN Flux added, the clothes are 3% softer, and the scenery is 3% stronger.