Plain steel code 70 HO rails

[trisonic]

I don't like the yellow cast of nickel silver rail. Does anyone know a source of Code 70 steel rail (NOT Finished track) in the 'States?

Thanks, Pete.

[Squidbait]

What yellow cast? Any nickle-silver rail I've owned has always had a bright silver sheen. And painting it dulls the colour on the web and foot anyways, so you're just left with the shiny rail top.

Trust me, you don't want plain steel rail. It rusts. Quickly. And gets very dirty. It's impossible to keep clean. Ask anyone who's used Bachmann's steel (black-base) E-Z Track.

[trisonic]

No, trust ME - steel rail is better.

If you're happy with nickel silver then, fine. I'm looking for plain steel (and I'm really not interested in comparisons to anything from Bachmann, thanks).

Cheers, Pete.

[Squidbait]

You don't say where you're from... if you're from Europe, check out C+L Finescale. Their steel rail used to be a lead-alloy steel which soldered well, but isn't available in code 70, just code 75 and code 83. The code 75 has a profile similar to North American rail, but the bullhead is definitely a Euro-look rail.

Actually, since you seem to think n/s rail has a yellow tinge, it makes me believe you are across the pond, since many euro-makes had this tinge. Most North American-supplied n/s rail looks silver, with no trace of tint.

Rumour has it that supplies of the steel rail are dwindling, and it's no longer being manufactured, so you may not have a choice.

Whatever floats your boat dude, but steel rail is a giant PITA. While the lead-alloy steel is easy to solder, it's still prone to rust, and stainless rail is difficult to solder to. If you're running trains all-day, every day, and you've got excellent climate control, then steel rail won't be a problem. If, on the other hand, you're not running trains all day, or you really enjoy cleaning track, then steel may be the choice for you.

[TinGoat]

I don't like the yellow cast of nickel silver rail. Does anyone know a source of Code 70 steel rail (NOT Finished track) in the 'States?

Thanks, Pete.

Yellow Cast of Brass perhaps?

[trisonic]

No I am English but live in New York. I know the difference between brass and nickel silver, thanks...
If no one thinks ME nickel silver rail has a buttery, yellow cast, I give up! It just doesn't look right to me. Thanks anyway. Appreciate your time.

Btw in case anyone else looks at C&L Code 75 flatbottom there is no comparison with US prototype as dimensionally the head or top of the rail is the wrong size too. There's an interesting page on the Fast Tracks site that list all the dimensions of various rail, it's quite interesting....

Best, Pete.

[Sumpter250]

My first layout ( some fifty years ago ) had some steel rail flex track. I don't remember any rust problems, but then, I did use hair clipper oil on the track. I haven't looked for steel rail, so I don't know if it is readily available. Swap meets, E bay, or possibly an internet search might turn up some sources. May fortune favor you.

[doctorwayne]

I used steel rail for this crane, built about 40 years ago. The runway, built only a few years ago, used rail left-over from the original project.


I don't notice a lot of rust, but the running surface was burnished with fine sandpaper to give it a shine - it's all code 100. If I'm not mistaken, one of the hobby shops nearby still carries steel rail, but I somehow doubt that it's any smaller than code 100.

Wayne

[dave_long]

No I am English but live in New York. I know the difference between brass and nickel silver, thanks...
If no one thinks ME nickel silver rail has a buttery, yellow cast, I give up! It just doesn't look right to me. Thanks anyway. Appreciate your time.

Btw in case anyone else looks at C&L Code 75 flatbottom there is no comparison with US prototype as dimensionally the head or top of the rail is the wrong size too. There's an interesting page on the Fast Tracks site that list all the dimensions of various rail, it's quite interesting....

Best, Pete.

Hi Pete
C+L actually stock code 70 FB albeit NS however with C+Ls nickel rail they use a slightly different nickel content and I've never seen their rail go yellowy (I've got several batches of their code 83 FB rail thats been sat in a moist and humid garage without issue) however you are now in NY so thats not all that helpful. (plus you seem dead set on Steel)

Rgds
Dave

[pgandw]

I don't like the yellow cast of nickel silver rail. Does anyone know a source of Code 70 steel rail (NOT Finished track) in the 'States?

Thanks, Pete.

The only steel rail in the US I know of smaller than code 100 was the LaVancil code 81 (accurate model of some 132lb prototype rail). IIRC, the LaVancil rail was made from a leaded steel alloy to allow soldering. But this left a dull gray lead finish instead of shiny steel silver color. Probably the only stocks left are at Andy Reichert's Proto87 Stores.

That said, I have never seen a yellowish cast to ME nickel silver rail. Have you contacted ME with your complaint?

I have seen the yellow tinge with cheap brands of pre-fab NS track. And I have seen it with some brands of "silverware" - the other common use for nickel silver. All the ME nickel silver rail I have is perhaps a little too gray and rough appearing to me unless the top of the head is burnished to a shine. Lighting does make a difference - even polished steel under a tungsten light (incandescent bulbs and "soft/warm white" flourescents) may have a slight yellowish tinge. Perhaps some cool white or daylight CFLs might make a difference in your case.

my thoughts, your choices
Fred W

[ocalicreek]

I'm very curious about this yellowing effect, and in the whole steel rail conversation, having run my own experiment trying to keep steel rail from accumulating crud. Perhaps some side-by-side comparison pictures would help illustrate the look you're after (and/or what you're not after).

Galen

[doctorwayne]

I've seen the "yellow-rail" condition with Atlas code 83 nickel silver, as shown here:


However, the only time I've seen it is after ballasting track or installing scenic ground cover in close proximity to the tracks. I use an initial spray of "wet" water (plain tap water with a drop or two of dish detergent added) and dilute white glue, applied with a dropper bottle. At some point after the glue has been applied, the rails take on a distinct yellowish cast. It cleans off easily with a mildly abrasive cleaning block, but re-appears within minutes if the glue mixture has not dried completely. Even cleaning the following day, when the glue isn't fully hardened, the yellow will re-appear, and will continue to do so, sometimes for several days.
Once the glue is fully dried, cleaning is permanent and no further yellowing occurs unless the area is re-wet:


Perhaps a dumb question, Pete, but are you a smoker?

Wayne

[Charlie B]

I have the "yellow rail" with the old atlas code 100 flex track I bought in 1985 that I salvaged for use now, however, the "cheap" Model Power flex track doesn't do this. The older Atlas was so brassy looking I had to clean some to be sure it wasn't brass. Once it has been cleaned it appears to stay silver, and I will be painting the sides anyway.
Charlie