Making good Masking

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Hey guys,

I've been having trouble painting lately. Essentially, not matter how much i try to burnish the masking tape on, I continue to get bleed through. Its even harder to mask on a curve, like across the nose of an F unit or Geep. I also have a lot of models with fluting, which I am unsure of how to protect properly.

In particular, some of the paints I use (like the Alclad II paints) are very sensitive to defects, and i worry that masking tape or fluids might leave residues or get stuck in the fluting.

For example, the fluted areas of this PATCO car are mirror-metallic. The "smooth" areas are a also metallic but a different metal color. then there is a Black window band around the front windows. the little ridges seem like they would prevent me from getting the masking tape in properly. How would you mask across these surfaces?



Prototype photo for reference-



How would one replicate the nose of this E-unit? the only other way I can think is custom decals, but i don't know how i'd make those.

[jwb]

There are several good strategies, and sometimes a mix is best.

First, masking tape: I've found Scotch Magic Tape (i.e. #119) is by far the best. It's thin and sticks well, but not too well. Don't use any sort of paper type masking tape like what's used for auto painting. Practice helps, and certainly it's best for straight lines.

A second issue is airbrush technique: you've got to learn to spray so the paint is almost dry when it hits the model. The less fluid the paint, the less likely it is to bleed under the masking.

A third technique, which I use only when I'm pretty worried, is to spray color A on the model, the base color that most of the model will be. Then mask for the next color. However, before spraying color B, spray another coat of color A over the original color A coat and the masking as well. Any bleed through will be the same color as the base color. However, in most situations, good masking and airbrush technique should help. (An example of where this might be helpful, though, is in elaborate bicentennial type schemes where the color separation is going across hood doors, latches, vents, etc.)

Fourth, use Micro Scale trim film. That's how I would do the PATCO car in the photo: spray on the aluminum paint, then measure and cut the black decal trim film where the black will go.

Fifth, and this would apply to the NJT cab units, look carefully for any commercial decals that might include all the striping already in the set. There are probably dozens of small vendors among whom you might find this stuff. Then you're home free.

Sixth, if that fails, look for a decal set that has similar striping. The NJT scheme looks like the striping pattern is similar to RF&P, GM&O, or maybe SP Daylight. Check those out with photos. If any are really close, buy a set of those (or borrow one maybe), photocopy it, and use the photocopy as a pattern to cut Scotch Magic Tape in the masking pattern that matches the stripes. Use Technique 3 if needed.

In all cases, use Micro Scale fine striping decals for the thin stripes over color separations.

[MasonJar]

I would add that the window trim on the PATCO car could be brush painted with a brush like this:

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Andrew

[Sumpter250]

In addition to what jwb posted;
I have been using the blue painter's tape, since it first came out, and have had no problems with the tape ( the way I have applied it ? sometimes there's a problem there ) .
Any time I'm working with a curve, or on an irregular surface, or "the nose of a F unit", I will first mask off the area using 3/32" to 1/8" wide strips of tape ( apply tape to a small glass plate, and then with a straight edge, and a sharp #11 blade, pre-cut the tape strips ) which can be curved better that the full width. Then, the rest of the unpainted area can be masked off from those thin "edge strips".

For single, or multiple stripes. Cut strips of masking tape, the width of the stripe, and apply to the loco/car/whatever.
Next, if multiple stripes, cut tape strips the width of the space between, and apply, or if just a single stripe, apply a strip of tape on both sides, then, thin tape strips can be used to apply paper masks for the rest of the "unpainted" area.
Remove the "stripe" tape strips, and shoot...as jwb stated, with enough air that the paint is almost dry as it hits the surface.

Yes. a bit of practice with this method is highly recommended, as well as a last minute burnishing of all the edges.
A clear spray could also be used to seal the tape edges, instead of the base, or body, color. In many cases this is absolutely necessary. You will eventually learn where and when you an get away with not sealing the edges.

The masking for the orange stripe/nose of these WP FTA+B - F7A was done with blue painter's tape:
   
As was the orange "Flow-through" on the LIRR C-420 kitbash:
   

[Green_Elite_Cab]

First up

I would add that the window trim on the PATCO car could be brush painted with a brush like this:

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Andrew

I LOVE MICRO BRUSHES. I got a few packs when I was 15, and I've been using them for ages. I actually have a hard time finding them at hobby shops, but i've got enough laying around that I haven't run out of the super-fine tips yet. The best part is, unlike a regular brush that gets frayed, these stay "tips", and never puff out.

It hadn't occured to me to try and use these to do the black rubber gaskets around the windows. This is a detail I've left out of many of my commuter cars because i'm so nervous the black paint will get on the metallic paint (and once it does, the metal paint is ruined). I'm thinking though, a microbrush, a steady hand and some masking tape may help.

There are several good strategies, and sometimes a mix is best.

First, masking tape: I've found Scotch Magic Tape (i.e. #119) is by far the best. It's thin and sticks well, but not too well. Don't use any sort of paper type masking tape like what's used for auto painting. Practice helps, and certainly it's best for straight lines.

I tend to use 3m blue painters tape, though the sort in question has a different texture than the usual stuff. unfortunately, it will not seal in around the edges of EMD engine doors on the hoods. I didn't think scotch magic tape would work, it seems like "regular" tape to me, though we have plenty of it here. I'll have to try it.

A second issue is airbrush technique: you've got to learn to spray so the paint is almost dry when it hits the model. The less fluid the paint, the less likely it is to bleed under the masking.

THis has always been frustrating to me. When i first started airbrushing, I was able to do this pretty much immeadiately. For a little while, I wasn't even worried about painting anymore. However, it seems like i've been regressing in this area, and i suspect it has to do with the thinning of the paint.

For example, the Alclad metal paints are prethinned, so i can shoot them right through the airbrush and expect reasonable results from the get go.

However, I cannot get Polly scale, floquil, or similar paints to cooperate. I use 1 ml scientific droppers, and i count the drops, and do the math so to create a mixture within the parameters on the bottle. I use Floquil airbrush thinner and deionized water for solvent and acyrlics respectively. No matter what I do, the paint seems to come out runny.

Now that I think about it, suspect something is up with my airbrush as well, but i can't see anymore paint clogs. I clean it thoroughly in acetone after every use, yet still paint flow seems restricted sometimes. In fact, I haven't painted anything for so long that I forgot part of the reason i put those projects on hold!

A third technique, which I use only when I'm pretty worried, is to spray color A on the model, the base color that most of the model will be. Then mask for the next color. However, before spraying color B, spray another coat of color A over the original color A coat and the masking as well. Any bleed through will be the same color as the base color. However, in most situations, good masking and airbrush technique should help. (An example of where this might be helpful, though, is in elaborate bicentennial type schemes where the color separation is going across hood doors, latches, vents, etc.)

I've heard of this strategy, and I think I tried it once or twice, in particular on mind bending "Metro North" paint job I did for a friend. It still didn't work, but I wonder if the masking tape was really working. I burnished it as much as i could, but I ended up repainting the different stripes 4 or 5 times before I gave up and decided to try and touch up the sizable splotches with a paint brush.

Fourth, use Micro Scale trim film. That's how I would do the PATCO car in the photo: spray on the aluminum paint, then measure and cut the black decal trim film where the black will go.

I was tempted to do this early on. The only reason I hesitate is I'm not sure how easy it would be for me to cut the trim film perfectly to size. I was recently cutting trim film (though at much smaller sizes) to make the red warning stickers on my E44 electrics, and it took quite a bit of trimming to get them right.

If a decal could be made to fit around the front windows, it would be ideal, but i'm not clear how I would translate the exact sizes to the trim film itself. the very front face might not be to bad, but getting the angles to work out on the sides seems tricky. It seems like proper masking it the only good way to garauntee a accurate window band.

Fifth, and this would apply to the NJT cab units, look carefully for any commercial decals that might include all the striping already in the set. There are probably dozens of small vendors among whom you might find this stuff. Then you're home free.

Sixth, if that fails, look for a decal set that has similar striping. The NJT scheme looks like the striping pattern is similar to RF&P, GM&O, or maybe SP Daylight. Check those out with photos. If any are really close, buy a set of those (or borrow one maybe), photocopy it, and use the photocopy as a pattern to cut Scotch Magic Tape in the masking pattern that matches the stripes. Use Technique 3 if needed.

No dice on these two. So far as I can tell, only one company has made the NJ DOT decals, but they only do the stripes and logos for the Passenger cars and the U34CH locomotives. I've been looking for a similar set for a while, but very little reveals itself to me. While there are plenty of small decal places around, I haven't yet found an NJ DOT E unit decal or a good stand in. I'm going to have to synthesize this myself.

In all cases, use Micro Scale fine striping decals for the thin stripes over color separations.

Yup, thats the way to go with the thin stripes!

In addition to what jwb posted;
I have been using the blue painter's tape, since it first came out, and have had no problems with the tape ( the way I have applied it ? sometimes there's a problem there ) .

This is the tape I've been using.

I think the biggest problem is the hood details and doors. Paint seems to pull into the seems with caillary action. I suppose the overspay method would work to a point, but I tried that at least once on a Metro North paint job, and the paint still pulled through.

Any time I'm working with a curve, or on an irregular surface, or "the nose of a F unit", I will first mask off the area using 3/32" to 1/8" wide strips of tape ( apply tape to a small glass plate, and then with a straight edge, and a sharp #11 blade, pre-cut the tape strips ) which can be curved better that the full width. Then, the rest of the unpainted area can be masked off from those thin "edge strips".

I was even cutting notches into the tape to facilitate its bending, but it can be tricky to get consistent, symmetrical lines.

Yes. a bit of practice with this method is highly recommended, as well as a last minute burnishing of all the edges.
A clear spray could also be used to seal the tape edges, instead of the base, or body, color. In many cases this is absolutely necessary. You will eventually learn where and when you an get away with not sealing the edges.

I guess this must be the case. I've always dreaded painting things, its probably my weakest skill in the whole hobby. Perhaps i should just bite the bullet and paint some more until I get it right (though not on anything expensive yet)

The masking for the orange stripe/nose of these WP FTA+B - F7A was done with blue painter's tape:
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]
As was the orange "Flow-through" on the LIRR C-420 kitbash:
[ATTACHMENT NOT FOUND]

Very Nice! The LIRR one concerns me though, how did you get the tape in around the hood door seams?

[doctorwayne]

Lots of good suggestions here.
For your PATCO car, the order in which you apply the colours is as important as the masking. To eliminate worries about masking the fluting, apply the paint for the flat metallic areas first, and apply it to the entire car. After it is fully cured, mask-off all of the non-fluted areas, then apply the Alclad. The black areas are a straightforward masking job, with the upper colour separation at the rain gutter - top and edge of the gutter silver/grey, bottom of the gutter and below black. Apply the lower edge of the tape to the gutter at its highest point and burnish it only at that contact point. The bottom of the black area will be separated by the red stripe, so the only crucial area to be masked is the vertical that extends from the drip edge of the gutter to the red stripe. I use regular masking tape for both lacquer-based and acrylic paints, but always apply it first to a sheet of clean glass, where I trim away both factory edges - these get nicked and collect fuzz and dust, and, since they're exposed to air, the adhesive is weak.

Window and numberboard gaskets can be done with a small brush or a Sharpie marker.

When masking over raised or depressed details, the tape should be applied and burnished as you work your way along the carbody, not after the strip of tape is in place. To do this and still maintain a straight line, I first apply a strip of tape over the area which is to be painted. Use calipers or dividers to determine where the colour separation will be in relation to a known straight line: for instance, the eave line of the roof or the bottom edge of the carbody. Cut a strip of tape exactly the same width as that area, then apply it without any burnishing, as it's merely a reference line to keep the actual masking tape straight. Apply the tape for masking, burnishing over details as you follow along the guide strip, then remove and discard the guide tape. As mentioned, cut thin strips where you need to curve the tape, then fill in with wider strips or individual pieces where necessary.

For your E-units, I'd make a guide as outlined above before applying any paint. The crucial area is at the colour separation between the lower green area and the grey/silver band at the nose. First, use your dividers to determine the full height of the lower green band and cut a strip of tape to that width, then apply it to your model - it doesn't need to be the full length of the body at this point, as you're merely determining the shape of the curve, but it should extend a little past the mid-point of the nose, where the band ends in a point. Make a vertical pencil mark at the point on the nose, and another pencil mark where the curve begins, which appears to be at the leading edge of the small walkway on the cab's side. Remove the tape and, using a straightedge, place it back on the sheet of glass. Use a pen or pencil to trace your estimation of the curve onto the tape, then cut along the line and re-apply the tape - you may hit it accurately on you first try or you may need several attempts. When you're satisfied with its appearance, apply the tape to a piece of paper (or thin styrene) and cut the paper/styrene following the curved edge of the tape. Use this pattern to prepare two strips of tape for each loco, flipping the pattern to do the opposite side of the loco.
Next, paint the entire loco grey/silver and when the paint has fully cured, apply the curved alignment tapes, starting at the nose and working to the rear of the loco. Cut thin strips of tape to mask the edges of the curve (you'll need your dividers to plot the path of upper curve, keeping it parallel to the lower one) and fill in with wider strips and bits. You can apply the straight part of the band as either a single strip of tape or as two medium-width ones along the upper and lower edges, with a third piece to cover the middle area. Burnish the outer edges as you apply the tape, following the guide tape to keep things straight. When the band has been masked, remove all guide tape and spray the green. You can do the stripes with decals, but if the correct colour isn't available, you could also paint them, using the methods outlined.

The tape should be removed as soon as the paint is dry to the touch. To avoid lifting previously-applied paint, pull the tape back over itself at as sharp an angle as possible - this puts the least stress on the painted surfaces.
If, despite all precautions, you still have some bleed-through, allow the paint to fully dry, then, if the problem areas are somewhat three-dimensional, scrape them gently with a sharp blade. The tip of a #11 works well for small areas, while a #17 blade works better for wider "oopsies" - hold the blade perpendicular to the surface and lightly drag it, non-bevelled side first, over the area. Use a small brush to touch-up any areas needing attention - don't apply too much paint and don't overwork it - two or even three light applications, with ample drying time between, will yield better looking results than one heavy one.

For your airbrush problem, the restriction may be a plugged or partially-plugged vent hole in the siphon cap - this results in reduced and/or irregular paint flow.

Wayne

[Mr Fixit]

There have been some very useful tips posted here, so thank you to all who have contributed their knowledge.

I am yet to paint any models, but I have picked up a few tips from the painters [buildings] at work where painters can come and go and we have something like 6 beige like colours used in numerous buildings and houses. One beige colour is named "Santas Beard", go figure. We also have a black paint named "School Blue" which is black but contains a dark blue tint to it that can only be seen when looking across the surface at a low angle. Many of the buildings are Heritage Listed Period Buildings which adds complexity.

Record things like the date you bought [and where] particular supplies like paints and making tape.
Store your masking tape[s] in a well sealed lunch box container and store away from sunlight, sources of heat, and moisture. The stuff does go off, that is why the good brand stuff is sealed in plastic when you buy it. The same also goes for your paint and thinners and brushes.
If in doubt try fresh supplies and do test samples.
When you do a particular colour mix or thinning of a paint for a project, place a test patch onto a file card [for example] and or a sample piece of styrene. Write down next to the sample patch, the details of the brands, colours, mix ratios, any thinning done and write down the maths in case you make a mistake with your maths.
Compile all these cars in a folder along with sample prototype reference photos and technique notes [building or painting] for each project.

"Oh, I will remember it all my head," just will not happen. You will forget or worse still muddle the facts up.

I hope that these ideas learnt the hard way at work will help you.

Mark

[jwb]

GEC, if you're worried about the angle on the side for your PATCO car, just put the darn car on your copier or scanner and make a copy! Then use the image on the copy as a guide for cutting the film.

(35 years ago, someone told me this was the best way to document PC boards. I slapped my forehead and wondered why I hadn't thought of that.)

[Sumpter250]

Very Nice! The LIRR one concerns me though, how did you get the tape in around the hood door seams?

By using 1/8" wide tape strips, I was able to work it into the "depressions" between doors ( etc. ) using a 3/32" dowel with one end formed into a "chisel tip", and another simply tapered to a point. The tape has to be pushed in, as you go. If you laid down the strip and then tried to push it into the crevasses, you would most likely puncture, or break the tape. Metal tools can have "too sharp" edges, and cause cutting or tearing of the tape.
Understand, there is still microscopic "bleeding", nothing is perfect, but unless it is over magnified, it is "unseen".

[Green_Elite_Cab]

Lots of good suggestions here.
For your PATCO car, the order in which you apply the colours is as important as the masking. To eliminate worries about masking the fluting, apply the paint for the flat metallic areas first, and apply it to the entire car. After it is fully cured, mask-off all of the non-fluted areas, then apply the Alclad. The black areas are a straightforward masking job, with the upper colour separation at the rain gutter - top and edge of the gutter silver/grey, bottom of the gutter and below black. Apply the lower edge of the tape to the gutter at its highest point and burnish it only at that contact point. The bottom of the black area will be separated by the red stripe, so the only crucial area to be masked is the vertical that extends from the drip edge of the gutter to the red stripe. I use regular masking tape for both lacquer-based and acrylic paints, but always apply it first to a sheet of clean glass, where I trim away both factory edges - these get nicked and collect fuzz and dust, and, since they're exposed to air, the adhesive is weak.

Normally, this would be how I would do it, though there is complication here. The "Alclad Chrome" paint requires that it is applied to a absolutely gloss finish. Apparently this can be accomplished through Gloss Black base coat.

The problem is that if I did paint the Alclad Stainless steel (which is a larger metal particle in the paint), it would no longer be super glossy. As a result, the Chrome would be just as shiny as the Stainless steel, just a different shade. This is not ideal. Essentially, the Chrome paint has to be on a gloss black base coat, and there can be nothing between it, otherwise the mirror reflective effect goes away.

I may just have to bite the bullet and try and put masking tape over the fluted sides, and then once everything else is painted, put the chrome on last. I'm not sure how well the tape will burnish into the fluting, but in theory, if I spray the Stainless Steel properly, it will dry before it runs. This Alclad Paint is very dilute, and even if a little did get through by capillary action, It may not be a major concern. Still, I try to do good work.

When masking over raised or depressed details, the tape should be applied and burnished as you work your way along the carbody, not after the strip of tape is in place. To do this and still maintain a straight line, I first apply a strip of tape over the area which is to be painted. Use calipers or dividers to determine where the colour separation will be in relation to a known straight line: for instance, the eave line of the roof or the bottom edge of the carbody. Cut a strip of tape exactly the same width as that area, then apply it without any burnishing, as it's merely a reference line to keep the actual masking tape straight. Apply the tape for masking, burnishing over details as you follow along the guide strip, then remove and discard the guide tape. As mentioned, cut thin strips where you need to curve the tape, then fill in with wider strips or individual pieces where necessary.

I'm not entirely sure I follow (curses i'm a visual person), but hypothetically, if I were to mask the fluted edge of the PATCO car, i would use the rain gutter as a guide and cut a thin strip to be the guide strip of paint, correct?

For your E-units, I'd make a guide as outlined above before applying any paint. The crucial area is at the colour separation between the lower green area and the grey/silver band at the nose. First, use your dividers to determine the full height of the lower green band and cut a strip of tape to that width, then apply it to your model - it doesn't need to be the full length of the body at this point, as you're merely determining the shape of the curve, but it should extend a little past the mid-point of the nose, where the band ends in a point. Make a vertical pencil mark at the point on the nose, and another pencil mark where the curve begins, which appears to be at the leading edge of the small walkway on the cab's side. Remove the tape and, using a straightedge, place it back on the sheet of glass. Use a pen or pencil to trace your estimation of the curve onto the tape, then cut along the line and re-apply the tape - you may hit it accurately on you first try or you may need several attempts. When you're satisfied with its appearance, apply the tape to a piece of paper (or thin styrene) and cut the paper/styrene following the curved edge of the tape. Use this pattern to prepare two strips of tape for each loco, flipping the pattern to do the opposite side of the loco.

I think I understand that. Essentially, the first tape would be used to create a template to cut additional strips to match. Wouldn't it be possible then, to make the template already match the full width of the stripe, rather than just the edges?

Next, paint the entire loco grey/silver and when the paint has fully cured, apply the curved alignment tapes, starting at the nose and working to the rear of the loco. Cut thin strips of tape to mask the edges of the curve (you'll need your dividers to plot the path of upper curve, keeping it parallel to the lower one) and fill in with wider strips and bits. You can apply the straight part of the band as either a single strip of tape or as two medium-width ones along the upper and lower edges, with a third piece to cover the middle area. Burnish the outer edges as you apply the tape, following the guide tape to keep things straight. When the band has been masked, remove all guide tape and spray the green. You can do the stripes with decals, but if the correct colour isn't available, you could also paint them, using the methods outlined.

This is the part that concerns me. The red pin-striping would need to curve with the paint. Can a straight decal stripe conform to these lines? It can definitely see how this method could be used to paint the pinstripe, but that seems difficult to maintain what is roughly a scale 2" or 2 1/2 ".

I've seen this "Pactra" striping material in hobby shops, have you had expirience with it? It comes on a roll and can be applied around complex curves. One side is adhesive. I tried it once on a model for a friend when I ran out of regular decal stripe, but it did appear to come up so i grow concerned about how good it is. Then again, I may not have applied it properly since I was in a rush. Perhaps it could be used as pinstripe masking....

don't apply too much paint and don't overwork it - two or even three light applications, with ample drying time between, will yield better looking results than one heavy one.

This is one of the worst temptations I have. Its like counting the licks to the center of a tootsie roll pop.... at some point, you just want to bite it (aka put on a thicker coat).

For your airbrush problem, the restriction may be a plugged or partially-plugged vent hole in the siphon cap - this results in reduced and/or irregular paint flow.

Wayne

Lately I've been using a color cup, and I usually wash it out with paint thinner between paints, and then scrub it with acetone and a pipe cleaner when i'm done painting for the day.

My concern is that paint is stuck in the body of the airbrush somewhere in between where the paint gets sucked into the brush, and the internal parts of the air brush. I'm pretty good about cleaning the tips, needle, and other easily accessible parts with brushes, steel wire (for the small holes), and Acetone.

I use a Crescendo 175.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

GEC, if you're worried about the angle on the side for your PATCO car, just put the darn car on your copier or scanner and make a copy! Then use the image on the copy as a guide for cutting the film.

(35 years ago, someone told me this was the best way to document PC boards. I slapped my forehead and wondered why I hadn't thought of that.)

Why do I overcomplicate things?

That actually sounds like a good idea, I just need to make sure it gets copied to scale. I suppose its counter intuitive because it may not be easy to fit the shell in there, but i suppose I could prop the scanner open a little.

Very Nice! The LIRR one concerns me though, how did you get the tape in around the hood door seams?

By using 1/8" wide tape strips, I was able to work it into the "depressions" between doors ( etc. ) using a 3/32" dowel with one end formed into a "chisel tip", and another simply tapered to a point. The tape has to be pushed in, as you go. If you laid down the strip and then tried to push it into the crevasses, you would most likely puncture, or break the tape. Metal tools can have "too sharp" edges, and cause cutting or tearing of the tape.
Understand, there is still microscopic "bleeding", nothing is perfect, but unless it is over magnified, it is "unseen".

I'm going to have to make myself one of these tools, that just might work!

There have been some very useful tips posted here, so thank you to all who have contributed their knowledge.

When you do a particular colour mix or thinning of a paint for a project, place a test patch onto a file card [for example] and or a sample piece of styrene. Write down next to the sample patch, the details of the brands, colours, mix ratios, any thinning done and write down the maths in case you make a mistake with your maths.
Compile all these cars in a folder along with sample prototype reference photos and technique notes [building or painting] for each project.

"Oh, I will remember it all my head," just will not happen. You will forget or worse still muddle the facts up.

I hope that these ideas learnt the hard way at work will help you.

Mark

Probably a good idea, especially since I'm trying to synthesize a lot of unique colors. It occured to me today, that I wonder how one would create red tinted windows? (the PATCO cars appear dark, but in the light, they reflect pink/red!) This is just me wondering to myself, That might be going a step to far, considering the kit already came with tinted window pieces, so i'm not going to go that far.

perhaps a light, diluted cote of transparent red, like that from tamiya? I've used similar techniques to create red marker lights, by painting the marker chrome, then putting the transparent red of it. it looks pretty close!

[doctorwayne]

Normally, this would be how I would do it, though there is complication here. The "Alclad Chrome" paint requires that it is applied to a absolutely gloss finish. Apparently this can be accomplished through Gloss Black base coat.

The problem is that if I did paint the Alclad Stainless steel (which is a larger metal particle in the paint), it would no longer be super glossy. As a result, the Chrome would be just as shiny as the Stainless steel, just a different shade. This is not ideal. Essentially, the Chrome paint has to be on a gloss black base coat, and there can be nothing between it, otherwise the mirror reflective effect goes away.
I may just have to bite the bullet and try and put masking tape over the fluted sides, and then once everything else is painted, put the chrome on last. I'm not sure how well the tape will burnish into the fluting, but in theory, if I spray the Stainless Steel properly, it will dry before it runs. This Alclad Paint is very dilute, and even if a little did get through by capillary action, It may not be a major concern. Still, I try to do good work.

You've sorta lost me here: the colour for the non-fluted area is applied first to the entire car. When cured, all of the car that is to remain this colour or to later be painted black is masked-off. Next, apply the paint(s) as required to the fluted areas - if it requires a black or glossy coat first, do so, then apply the Alclad. This could all be done with the initial masking. When that paint has cured, remove the tape as necessary and re-mask to paint the black area around the front end.


If you have to mask over the fluting, burnish the tape as it's applied - while it's not under tension. Press it down into each depression in the fluting as you come to it, then apply and burnish each subsequent flute as you reach it. Probably the main cause of bleed-under at irregular surfaces is the fact that the tape is first stretched over its entire length, then worked down and burnished into the depressions. Each subsequent one that you burnish puts more stress on the strip of tape, so, by the time you've finished taping and burnishing, the tape on the areas done earlier is already returning to its original stretched (and no-longer-burnished) state.

When masking over raised or depressed details, the tape should be applied and burnished as you work your way along the carbody, not after the strip of tape is in place. To do this and still maintain a straight line, I first apply a strip of tape over the area which is to be painted. Use calipers or dividers to determine where the colour separation will be in relation to a known straight line: for instance, the eave line of the roof or the bottom edge of the carbody. Cut a strip of tape exactly the same width as that area, then apply it without any burnishing, as it's merely a reference line to keep the actual masking tape straight. Apply the tape for masking, burnishing over details as you follow along the guide strip, then remove and discard the guide tape. As mentioned, cut thin strips where you need to curve the tape, then fill in with wider strips or individual pieces where necessary.

I'm not entirely sure I follow (curses i'm a visual person), but hypothetically, if I were to mask the fluted edge of the PATCO car, i would use the rain gutter as a guide and cut a thin strip to be the guide strip of paint, correct?

Not necessary at all if you paint in the order as outlined in the first part of my reply here.

For your E-units, I'd make a guide as outlined above before applying any paint. The crucial area is at the colour separation between the lower green area and the grey/silver band at the nose. First, use your dividers to determine the full height of the lower green band and cut a strip of tape to that width, then apply it to your model - it doesn't need to be the full length of the body at this point, as you're merely determining the shape of the curve, but it should extend a little past the mid-point of the nose, where the band ends in a point. Make a vertical pencil mark at the point on the nose, and another pencil mark where the curve begins, which appears to be at the leading edge of the small walkway on the cab's side. Remove the tape and, using a straightedge, place it back on the sheet of glass. Use a pen or pencil to trace your estimation of the curve onto the tape, then cut along the line and re-apply the tape - you may hit it accurately on you first try or you may need several attempts. When you're satisfied with its appearance, apply the tape to a piece of paper (or thin styrene) and cut the paper/styrene following the curved edge of the tape. Use this pattern to prepare two strips of tape for each loco, flipping the pattern to do the opposite side of the loco.

I think I understand that. Essentially, the first tape would be used to create a template to cut additional strips to match. Wouldn't it be possible then, to make the template already match the full width of the stripe, rather than just the edges?

Not exactly: The tape you're cutting to follow the curve is merely a guide for the lower edge of the tape needed to mask the light-coloured band. Once you have the correct curve (of the front end of the lower green area), you can go ahead and paint the entire unit with the light colour of the band. When that paint is fully cured, re-apply the guide tapes, then apply a thin strip of tape above the guide tape - this will demarcate (and cover) the lower edge of the light coloured paint which will comprise the light-coloured band. Use the dividers to mark a line parallel to this at a distance equal to the width of the light-coloured band, then use another thin strip of tape to mark (and cover) what will be the top edge of that band, then fill in the space between the two narrow strips with strips or bits of tape as required. The curved piece of tape at the bottom of the carbody (covering what will be the lower green area) is removed and discarded.

You can do the stripes with decals, but if the correct colour isn't available, you could also paint them, using the methods outlined.

This is the part that concerns me. The red pin-striping would need to curve with the paint. Can a straight decal stripe conform to these lines? It can definitely see how this method could be used to paint the pinstripe, but that seems difficult to maintain what is roughly a scale 2" or 2 1/2 ".

You've already made a template/mask which follows the upper edge of the lower green area - simply re-apply it (or a fresh version of the same), then apply a strip of tape 2" or 2 1/2" wide, then a strip of suitable width to cover the majority of the light coloured band. Above that, apply another 2" or 2 1/2" strip of tape and then tape, in narrow strips or wide, as necessary, to cover all of the other areas that are to remain green. Remove both 2"/2 1/2" strips and apply your red paint on the exposed stripe areas.
If you use decals, straight stripes can be made to conform to curves - take your time and concentrate on the long (upper) edges of the stripe - the lower edge will pucker and may lift slightly in some spots, but don't worry about it. When it's in place to your satisfaction, carefully apply decal setting solution, which should make any puckered or lifted areas snuggle down. Touch-up with paint or small bits of decal stripe where necessary.

I've seen this "Pactra" striping material in hobby shops, have you had expirience with it? It comes on a roll and can be applied around complex curves. One side is adhesive. I tried it once on a model for a friend when I ran out of regular decal stripe, but it did appear to come up so i grow concerned about how good it is. Then again, I may not have applied it properly since I was in a rush. Perhaps it could be used as pinstripe masking....

I haven't used it, but with the methods outlined above, you won't need it.

Lately I've been using a color cup, and I usually wash it out with paint thinner between paints, and then scrub it with acetone and a pipe cleaner when i'm done painting for the day.

My concern is that paint is stuck in the body of the airbrush somewhere in between where the paint gets sucked into the brush, and the internal parts of the air brush. I'm pretty good about cleaning the tips, needle, and other easily accessible parts with brushes, steel wire (for the small holes), and Acetone.

I use a Crescendo 175.

The construction of your airbrush looks quite similar to my Paasche VL. To clean it, regardless of what type of paint I've been spraying, I run a colour cup-ful of lacquer thinner through it, then disassemble it completely. The three parts comprising the tip go into some clean lacquer thinner in the cup and the needle is wiped with a rag dampened with thinner. To clean the body of the airbrush, dip a pipe cleaner in lacquer thinner, then poke it completely through the needle passageway, then through that of the paint supply. It's difficult to tell from the drawing, but if Part 41-016 is hollow, run the pipe cleaner through there, too.

Wayne

[jwb]

GEC, in my experience, all you have to do is lift the cover on your copier/scanner, put the body or car or whatever on the glass, and press COPY. You should get an image you can use. If you're concerned about whether it shrank too much to be useful, simply measure the image vs the body. If there's a percentage difference, scan the thing to a jpg and then enlarge it by the applicable percentage in the Windows photo manager. Then print that out.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

First up, thanks for walking this through with me. Painting is my worst area, and its always been something thats been difficult for me to master. Hopefully, I'm not to much of a pain!

You've sorta lost me here: the colour for the non-fluted area is applied first to the entire car. When cured, all of the car that is to remain this colour or to later be painted black is masked-off. Next, apply the paint(s) as required to the fluted areas - if it requires a black or glossy coat first, do so, then apply the Alclad. This could all be done with the initial masking. When that paint has cured, remove the tape as necessary and re-mask to paint the black area around the front end.

Basically-

Fluted Area- Chrome

Flat Area- Stainless Steel

Window band- Black/Dark Gray

The Whole car- GLoss Black base Coat

The problem is, If anything other than the plastic itself is beneath the gloss base coat, it may also inhibit the mirror reflective finish. This will translate to the Chrome that is painted over it. If you painted the Chrome onto the Stainless Steel, the Chrome would not have a mirror finish. I know this from experience, and even used it to create areas of "dull" chrome on the window band of one of my Arrow III cars a few years ago.

That is the sensitive nature of the paint.

Essentially, these means that I cannot paint the entire care Stainless Steel first, since this would interfere with the Chrome. This means that the only two layers of paint that can be on the fluted areas must be the Gloss BLack and the Chrome, otherwise I might as well just spray it silver. I'm merely trying to represent the variety of finishes on the prototype.

Since I can't have the Stainless Steel paint in the fluted areas, I'll have to mask the fluted regions.

If you have to mask over the fluting, burnish the tape as it's applied - while it's not under tension. Press it down into each depression in the fluting as you come to it, then apply and burnish each subsequent flute as you reach it. Probably the main cause of bleed-under at irregular surfaces is the fact that the tape is first stretched over its entire length, then worked down and burnished into the depressions. Each subsequent one that you burnish puts more stress on the strip of tape, so, by the time you've finished taping and burnishing, the tape on the areas done earlier is already returning to its original stretched (and no-longer-burnished) state.

This makes sense, and I can see now why earlier attempts at masking were not as successful.

You've already made a template/mask which follows the upper edge of the lower green area - simply re-apply it (or a fresh version of the same), then apply a strip of tape 2" or 2 1/2" wide, then a strip of suitable width to cover the majority of the light coloured band. Above that, apply another 2" or 2 1/2" strip of tape and then tape, in narrow strips or wide, as necessary, to cover all of the other areas that are to remain green. Remove both 2"/2 1/2" strips and apply your red paint on the exposed stripe areas.
If you use decals, straight stripes can be made to conform to curves - take your time and concentrate on the long (upper) edges of the stripe - the lower edge will pucker and may lift slightly in some spots, but don't worry about it. When it's in place to your satisfaction, carefully apply decal setting solution, which should make any puckered or lifted areas snuggle down. Touch-up with paint or small bits of decal stripe where necessary.

I think I might have to practice both ways, since both seem kinda tricky. I can't imagine painting such a thin pinstripe and keeping it all perfect. I'll have to devise a method for cutting long straight strips of masking tape. i do have a razor paper cutter available, I bet that will work.

Will the decal make a smooth curve, or will it have a tendancy to make a somewhat kinked curve? I didn't consider that the decal solution my flatten the "raised" areas, But now I can see how that may work.

The construction of your airbrush looks quite similar to my Paasche VL. To clean it, regardless of what type of paint I've been spraying, I run a colour cup-ful of lacquer thinner through it, then disassemble it completely. The three parts comprising the tip go into some clean lacquer thinner in the cup and the needle is wiped with a rag dampened with thinner. To clean the body of the airbrush, dip a pipe cleaner in lacquer thinner, then poke it completely through the needle passageway, then through that of the paint supply. It's difficult to tell from the drawing, but if Part 41-016 is hollow, run the pipe cleaner through there, too.

Wayne

The main area of concern appears to be the part # 41-027. At the end of this part, where the tip assemly screws in, there are two holes. One large centered hole where the pin fits through, and then one much smaller hole offset to the left that appears to be where the paint is sucked in from. I have not managed to be able to effectively work a pipe cleaner or other implement all the way through this hole, but I strongly suspect there is paint stuck in there.

Regardless, I'm going to check the airbrush again. I may be missing something.

[Green_Elite_Cab]

GEC, in my experience, all you have to do is lift the cover on your copier/scanner, put the body or car or whatever on the glass, and press COPY. You should get an image you can use. If you're concerned about whether it shrank too much to be useful, simply measure the image vs the body. If there's a percentage difference, scan the thing to a jpg and then enlarge it by the applicable percentage in the Windows photo manager. Then print that out.

The contrast was almost to high in the scanner. I can barely make out the lines, but I have a new idea. I could hold a piece of paper on the model, and then lightly shade over it. the raised areas should shade darker than the not raised area, and may even emboss the "shape" of the rain gutter into the paper. I can then make a pattern to cut the trim film decal that way.