Reworking some old N scale freight cars.

[TTRAK_andrew]

G'day All,
Over the years I have collected a variety of almost `junk box' quality and `pre-loved' N scale freight cars that have come in E-Bay `LOTS'. They languish in boxes and drawers until I get itchy fingers or some left over decals that need using up before they reach the end of their useful storage lives.
So here is the tale of two Atlas 50 foot double door boxcars that have spent their time in paint remover and have been betrothed to a set of ROUTE ROCK decals from the clearance box at my not so local hobby shop. Much to their horror they were also to go through the trauma of being `modernized' by the removal of their roof-walks and some of their end ladders!

   
After a good bath in warm soapy water to remove the last traces of paint stripper I removed the roof walks and plugged the holes with 5mm lengths of 1/16th diameter Evergreen Styrene rod. This is slightly under sized for Atlas cars but it does the job and was all that I had on hand. A dollop of `liquid styrene cement' type glue, which comes in a tube and is fairly viscous was used on the inside of the roof to hold the short lengths of rod in place. Next time I'm at a hobby shop I'll try to get some 0.080" diameter rod and see if that fits better.
   

   
The black boxcar was missing a brake wheel and I fitted a new one from a set of spares purchased from Atlas spare parts E-Bay dealer "That Train Place" at:
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://stores.ebay.com.au/That-Train-Place?_trksid=p4340.l2563">http://stores.ebay.com.au/That-Train-Pl ... 4340.l2563</a><!-- m -->

   
When the glue had thoroughly dried I carefully cut away at the protruding rod with a craft knife and followed that up by sanding away with an Emery Board, such as certain folks use on their finger nails. The emery board has a degree of flex in it that allows it to be bent to follow the angles of the ribs on the roof.
   
As you can see in this photo there was still some knife work to do to remove some of the plastic `ring' that surround the roof-walk mounting holes.
The next post will deal with the end ladders.
Regards, Andrew G.
Always learning, from both wins and losses.
My Model Railway blog: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/">http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/</a><!-- m -->

[TTRAK_andrew]

G'day again, here is part 2!
To my knowledge all North American freight cars have their ends labelled either `B' where the brake wheel is located, or `A', where it ain't. When roof-walks were `outlawed' in the late 1960's there began a decade(s?) long process of up grading existing rollingstock. Someone might be able to refer readers to a good web-site explaining this story. Not only were the roof-walks removed but also the ladders on the `A' end were shortened to prevent railway workers getting up on the roof. The `B' end kept the long ladders as the cost of lowering the brake wheel mounting was deemed to be significant. Occupational Health & Safety was probably a bit more reasonable back then.
   
   
   
   
   
Regards, Andrew G.
Always learning, from both wins and losses.
My Model Railway blog: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/">http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/</a><!-- m -->

[TTRAK_andrew]

G'day again - Part 3!
   
   
   
   
These models are for an operating layout and so overall impression, serviceability, and budget are the main factors. I do not claim to be a master modeller or exceedingly skillful, I simply apply what I can to what I have to the best of my abilities.
Hopefully this exercise will inspire some of you to rework/recycle/resurrect the freight cars you have hiding away.
Regards, Andrew G.
Always learning, from both wins and losses.
My Model Railway blog: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/">http://ttrakandrew.wordpress.com/</a><!-- m -->

[Tyson Rayles]

Nice work!

[Sumpter250]

" The end ladder gets the same treatment but this is a lot more difficult and I'm glad it's on the end which is partly hidden in most operating situations. Sometimes it is easier to use a normal blade here rather than a chisel blade. "

A long time back, I took an old set of jewelers screwdriver, removed the "swivels" and replaced them with 5/8" dia. wood "beads", and ground the blades to a razor edge. Those are what I use to remove small detail like ladders etc. .
They also double as scrapers to further smooth the area where detail has been removed. I have since found them very useful for chopping tiny strip stock, and as micro chisels for working styrene, and wood "parts".
Because they have such narrow cutting edges, they are particularly good at removing ladders on the car ends, working around the other detail, and leaving it undamaged....( most of the time :oops: )

[BR60103]

Andrew:
I don't think that cars are actually labelled with A and B. I'll check further.
Locos are labelled with an F for front.
When roof walks were removed, the supporting bits of angle were usually left in place. There once were castings available for these.

[TTRAK_andrew]

G'day David, I used the wrong word, I should have written "referred to" or "designated" rather than "labelled" in regards to the A and B ends.
Regards, Andrew G.

[Herc Driver]

Very nice - and inspiring - work indeed!

[BR60103]

OK, Andrew, I just didn't want you doing extra lettering!