Removing factory paint/decal?
#1
I'm trying to remove the Boston & Maine herald and "C 33" from this caboose but keep the blue color intact for my own decal i want to add.
[Image: BMC.jpg]
I've already tried this method but it didn't work. (i'm not sure if you must be a model railroader subscriber to view this video)
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://mrr.trains.com/en/Videos/Expert%20Tips/2009/11/Video%20How%20to%20remove%20factory-printed%20lettering%20from%20freight%20car%20models.aspx">http://mrr.trains.com/en/Videos/Expert% ... odels.aspx</a><!-- m -->
If you can't view it, its a method using Micro Sol to be applied over the lettering you want to be removed, placing scotch tape over the Micro Sol and lettering then using a toothpick burnishing the lettering, then peel off the scotch tape along with the lettering. That didn't work for me so does anyone have any other suggestions?
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#2
I've had luck with using Scalecoat ELO on a cotton swab, rubbed over factory lettering, with removing it. You could also try rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. However, this is an area where there aren't any completely predictable fixes -- trial and error.
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#3
jwb Wrote:I've had luck with using Scalecoat ELO on a cotton swab, rubbed over factory lettering, with removing it.
Where can you get Scalecoat ELO? I found this website <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.weavermodels.com/page11.html">http://www.weavermodels.com/page11.html</a><!-- m --> but don't see anything referring to ELO.

jwb Wrote:However, this is an area where there aren't any completely predictable fixes -- trial and error.
I've noticed, I thought since I saw it on the model railroader website, the Micro Sol was going to work for sure.
I'll give the rubbing alcohol a try for now.
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#4
The best I can say is that Scalecoat ELO stands for "easy lift off" paint remover. I checked Walthers, and I think it's 640-10568, but it's not called ELO there. (It's possible the rock band got on their case and made them stop using the name.)
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#5
I've always had good results from " Joe's Model Trains " paint and decal remover.
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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#6
A good old pencil eraser is effective for removing some manufacturer's lettering without harming the base color.
Michael
My primary goal is a large Oahu Railway layout in On3
My secondary interests are modeling the Denver, South Park, & Pacific in On3 and NKP in HO
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://thesouthparkline.blogspot.com/">http://thesouthparkline.blogspot.com/</a><!-- m -->
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#7
jwb Wrote:The best I can say is that Scalecoat ELO stands for "easy lift off" paint remover. I checked Walthers, and I think it's 640-10568, but it's not called ELO there. (It's possible the rock band got on their case and made them stop using the name.)

ELO is a PollyScale/Floquil brand, and should be shown on the Testor's website.

Removing lettering is often a bit of a crapshoot. I have some Rivarossi passenger cars which a friend would like re-lettered. I tried methyl hydrate on a rag, and it didn't touch the lettering at all. It did, however, remove the car's paint, a colour which he wanted to retain. 35 Since the lettering is applied over the paint, soaking the car in methyl hydrate will eventually remove it, along with all of the paint. Eek I'll mix-up a batch of paint to match the original, then re-paint all three - they need some other work anyway, and this is a better way to do the job.

ELO actually works quite well in many cases, but it's difficult to know exactly when to rinse it off - too soon and some of the lettering may remain: too late, and some of the paint may be removed. It's also not especially cheap.
You can also try rubbing alcohol, but not the 70% stuff - I found the 99% works well on some lettering.

If the paint starts to come off, you're probably better to just strip the car completely, then, after a good wash and thorough rinse, spray it with grey primer, then a suitable blue. If you don't have an airbrush, primer is available in spray cans, and you should be able to find a suitable blue in the model car paint section.

Wayne
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#8
Tried the house hold stuff, eraser and rubbing alcohol but no luck. I just ordered the decal remover from Joe's Model Train, we'll see how that works.
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#9
Based on what you've tried so far, I'll hope the "Joe's " works, otherwise you may have to go to the ultimate extremes----
Eek Strip the paint, and repaint Eek
That's when you find out that Icon_twisted "the lettering can't be removed" Icon_twisted 357 35
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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#10
haha that would be somethin. it probably would be easier just to spray over it but i'll give Joe's a try.
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#11
I scrape it off with a scalpel if the lettering is done with pad printing. You can feel and see the letter sitting on top of the paint. All chemical methods fail or destroy the letter and the base paint because both or usual very similar.
Reinhard
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#12
I've had luck using walthers Solvaset and special eraser. Regular pencil erasers are hit or miss (many just shred, not abrate), so you have to use more particular types.

You let the solvaset sit on the model for a little while, say half an hour. Just let it thoroughly soak in, don't skimp on the time.

[Image: P7010552.jpg]

I use this "Hi-Polymer Eraser", which does a better job than your average eraser.

[Image: P7010553.jpg]

You WILL RUB AWAY the rivets if you try to do this all the way. The best thing you can do is try to remove most of it, and then move in with dish cleaner. powdered dishwashing mix is abbrassive, and can be combined with water, and worked in with a tooth pick to get anything that is left around the rivets.

[Image: P6290518.jpg]

Once you have removed most of whats left, you can touch up any small bits with VERY SMALL DABS of paint that match the color of the caboose. if you dry brush it in VERY small amounts, it shouldn't harm the appearance of the model.
Modeling New Jersey Under the Wire 1978-1979.  
[Image: logosmall.png]
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#13
Thanks for the tips, if Joe's decal remover doesnt work ill give that method a try
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#14
So who's the one that called this one? after "Joe's"...the logo still stands. just ordered polly scale B&M blue.
[Image: bm33.jpg]
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#15
". . . That's when you find out that Icon_twisted "the lettering can't be removed" Icon_twisted 357 35 . . . "

Every once in a great while - - - - nothing works ! ( insert shoulder shrug smilie here }
We always learn far more from our own mistakes, than we will ever learn from another's advice.
The greatest place to live life, is on the sharp leading edge of a learning curve.
Lead me not into temptation.....I can find it myself!
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