Laying Peco code 55 track using caulk: problems

[steinjr]

Are you talking about filing the bottom of the rail and the bottom of the end tie?? :?:

Man, that's a lot of filing. :o

To be more precise :

if you don't have a tie at the very end of the rail, you just file the rail. Couple of swipes along bottom of rail, couple of swipes on sides of rail. Enough to create a slight narrowing of the rail at the end.

If necessary, take end tie off rail first, file rail, put on joiners, file tie a little on top (so it fits under the rail joiner instead of creating a bump where the joiner is), and slide tie back under rail w/joiner.

Stein

[Sumpter250]

Videobruce, I've been following this thread ( silently ). Whereas I am a living fossil, and rather set in my ways, I have never arrived at the conclusion that glue, is a proper way to hold track down. But then, I've never laid track according to a plan.
Even then, it is sometimes necessary to lift the track and slightly re-position it. so, I use rail spikes to hold the rail in place.
The glue part comes in ( once the track is set and runs well ), when the ballast is added. This then locks the track where it is.
My old module set has a "back table" for the narrow gauge.    
That Flextrack has never been ballasted, and has endured rough transport to and from shows for twenty years, with nothing but track spikes holding it in place, on a Homasote roadbed.
So much for "grumpy olde man". ( check out my signature )
It is great to see you asking, and so many willing to help. This, is where Big Blue shows its "stuff". Welcome to the world of model railroading, among friends. Once you've reached a point where you can start taking pictures......post a few!

[teejay]

I thought you'd get a kick out of that one , Tyson , ....figuring maybe you took a firehose to the glue

Homasote is great stuff and I used it and spiked the track ( takes spikes really well ) on my last layout ......BUT , the price up here is outta sight ....about $40/sheet 10 years ago and hard to find . I just can't afford that price these days ( probably higher now ) and I couldn't salvage the old material to reuse . Cork , in rolls , is pretty cheap ....I'll cut it and glue down the track . It'll have to do since it's all I can afford . Probably will generate more noise this time around , too , but ear plugs are cheap !

T

[Sumpter250]

Homasote is great stuff and I used it and spiked the track ( takes spikes really well ) on my last layout ......BUT , the price up here is outta sight ....about $40/sheet 10 years ago and hard to find . I just can't afford that price these days ( probably higher now ) and I couldn't salvage the old material to reuse . Cork , in rolls , is pretty cheap ....I'll cut it and glue down the track . It'll have to do since it's all I can afford . Probably will generate more noise this time around , too , but ear plugs are cheap ! T

A. I get Homasote in 2' X 4' sheets at Menards, and cut the roadbed strips from the sheet.
B. I'm not building a large layout ( although the old modules occupy 12' X 4'-8 1/2" of floor space, and the new modules
12' X 3' - 4" )
C. And ----- I haven't purchased any recently -----
D. :o but I will have to when I start the On30 modules

[videobruce]

Once you've reached a point where you can start taking pictures......post a few!

Can I post a pic of the top of my head where I have pulled out the rest of my hair??

Ok, here is the track laying disaster part 1. The middle track and the interlocking in the 3rd photo I did after the rest was done using less caulk. So much so, some of the track didn't stick. Enough for ballasting (I hope). I apparently either got bits of cork roadbed and/or caulk around the throw rod of the lower turnout in the 1st pic, the points didn't throw properly. I tried cleaning it out, but wound up destroying the spring. The points move ok now, but no snap action.

Not a happy camper. :oops:

[Sumpter250]

I apparently either got bits of cork roadbed and/or caulk around the throw rod of the lower turnout in the 1st pic, the points didn't throw properly. I tried cleaning it out, but wound up destroying the spring. The points move ok now, but no snap action. Not a happy camper. :oops:

That, is also a risk when ballasting. you have to be very careful where and how much ballast and glue you use around the point rails.. . . . . and, it's one of the reasons I never glue down the track.
N scale track spiked to cork, and ballasted, on my Ntrak module. ( with the N scale tour car )    
It doesn't show that clearly, any difference. It isn't a bad way to lay track, the modules have survived several trips to and from shows, and wide temperature extremes, with no apparent damage. . . . and, comparing "Hours/foot" track laying time. . . not a whole lot slower, and with a lot less mess. Besides, spiked rail /track, can be adjusted for any operating problems. That's much harder / messier to do when the track is glued down.

[Sumpter250]

Can I post a pic of the top of my head where I have pulled out the rest of my hair??

No need for that. just save the hair for grasses, or reeds scenery later on

[teejay]

From the pics , it looks like you got the cork roadbed down OK with no issues there . If you messed up a turn out or 2 , no biggie , just replace them and be done with it . We've ALL messed up and it usually costs us time , money or both .....for me it's usually both . I guarrantee you won't make the same mistake again . If there are some small areas of track that didn't sufficiently adhere , try raising the offending area slightly with a putty knife and apply adhesive ( caulk , glue , whatever ) with a toothpick . Lay a longer piece of 1x2 wood over the track , put on a little weight and leave it to dry . You should be fine .

Looks pretty good in the pics .....track spacing is smooth , nice realistic radius etc .

Terry

[videobruce]

it looks like you got the cork roadbed down OK with no issues there .

Correct, I had little problems with the roadbed. It's the flex track, namely those Peco joiners I'm having a terrible time with.

[Steamtrains]

I didn't realize you were using Peco joiners....They are a pain in the...Well, you know.... :oops:

Throw them away and use Atlas...It'll save you the hair-pulling part.... Although I think working with what seems to be N-gauge does contribute to that ...

If I find that some places weren't properly glued down, I use A's track nails to secure it. No need to go "slopping" glue under there....

[videobruce]

I didn't realize you were using Peco joiners....They are a pain in the...Well, you know....

Peco track, Peco joiners. What else, considering what I have read about trying to use Atlas? I have already bought a ton of these and with that expense I'm not about to toss them.

You are the 1st to make any comment about them other than the fact they look better.

[Sumpter250]

Just another thought : Take a small piece of your rail, and mount it in a "handle". Lightly dress the end of the rail to remove any possible burrs, or other deformities, and then use that "tool" to pre-stress / open slightly / make the Peco joiners, "just loose enough" to be hand installed.

. . . and if you say "why didn't I think of that"?, my answer would be " why didn't I think of that sooner!"

[videobruce]

I have read that suggestion elsewhere. It isn't just those burs that is a problem, it's actually seeing the joiner to try and line it up with the rail you are joining. Actually that is the #1 problem.

[doctorwayne]

....It isn't just those burs that is a problem, it's actually seeing the joiner to try and line it up with the rail you are joining. Actually that is the #1 problem.

Maybe it's time for an Opti-Visor?

Wayne

[BR60103]

Bruce: I'm working in HO (OO) and I just had to replace a crossing with a double slip. With insulated joiners on all 4 ends and one end going into 2 other switches that I couldn't move. And it's a foot and a half into the layout.
I quit using Atlas years ago -- far too big for the rails.