Paper Model questions

[teejay]

I've known about Kingmill for a year or so but have yet to buy . I really like their stuff and thanks , Wayne , for the 'structions .....lots of good info there .

I'm still having printer issues , but won't vent on it here as I'm trying to cool off for a while and not think about it . I've got a few structures printed out on cardstock and will take a fling at 'em ..........hindsight , I should have bought Kingmill !!

T

[Ralph]

I just happened to find a picture of a paper building on a French model railroad site and printed it twice to make the building larger. I printed a third copy for pieces to add thickness to sills and cornices. Then I added fire escapes and lights. It seems to work OK as a background building behind Canton Box Co. and it was free.

[faraway]

...It seems to work OK ...

It works very well. I really nice background building.

[doctorwayne]

Very nicely done, Ralph and a great idea to add some relief to the facade.

Wayne

[teejay]

Is that DPM in the foreground ? The whole scene looks really good .

Terry

[teejay]

Love those industrial themes ...you've made my day . Nice work !

T

[Ralph]

Thanks guys! Terry, Canton Box is made of DPM components. Not to stray from the original topic but here is a view of the whole scene.

[teejay]

Looks like a scratch built crusher up front !?

T

[Ralph]

Looks like a scratch built crusher up front !?

T

Yeah, I'm rather fond of that one. Among other things it's composed of two ore cars and a hopper. Completely "imgineered".
Ralph

[teejay]

It reminds me of something the late , great , Dean Freytag would concoct . I had the honour of meeting him and being at his home on 2 occasions ( Akron OH area ) to see his legendary steel mill layout .

T

[teejay]

Maybe you paper and cardstock modelers can answer something for me : I see in the recommended tools that it is suggested I get a burnishing tool , supposedly available at any craft shop . It is used for scoring but not cutting cardstock so as to fold it more easily and accurately . Would a blunted compass pointwork just as well or is there some other special quality of the real burnishing tool ? I'd like to avoid having to buy one , if possible .

T

[doctorwayne]

I used a utility knife, with a new blade, to score the back face of the Kingmill structures. Anywhere that it happened to break through to the printed side, I did a touch-up with paint after the paper had been cemented to the styrene.

Wayne

[jwb]

I think what you want is the cleanest, sharpest corners possible, and that will come from scribing lightly with a sharp X-Acto blade or equivalent. The Kingmill structures have marks to help with this.

Here are two Kingmill Jefferson St low reliefs, mounted on illustration board with white glue. After I made my test with scrap material, I decided to go ahead and try white glue on illustration board, despite their cautions against white glue. I used a thin, uniform coat and was careful to press down on any areas that started to curl, and also watch out for bulges and wrinkles -- rubbing gently with a piece of tissue will help this. My experience with white glue is almost always good, with a few exceptions. Spray adhesive, not so much, that'll bulge and wrinkle, too, and you can't smooth it down when it happens.         I still have to touch up the edges, corners, and seams, and I'm still trying different placements on the layout. However, I definitely plan to order more Kingmill kits.

I asked them about doing big-city style churches -- nope! A shame.

[doctorwayne]

....I asked them about doing big-city style churches -- nope! A shame.

That's surprising: I can't see the initial cost being that great - some digital photos and the equipment and programmes which they already have to tweak the photos and do the printing. These would be most useful, I think, as flats, and be a nice addition to other far-background type flats.

Wayne

[Tyson Rayles]

Ralph that makes for a great looking scene! jwb those look nice as well!